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Airsoft Canada (https://airsoftcanada.com/forums.php)
-   Upgrades & Modifications (https://airsoftcanada.com/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
-   -   WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=140496)

Danke February 12th, 2013 13:50
I'm guessing you drill out the rail guide (part #18 on a G17) and enlarge the fixing hole till it won't touch the plastic. Then the energy will transfer to the pin crossing the frame.

Qlong February 12th, 2013 13:55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danke (Post 1759845)
I'm guessing you drill out the rail guide (part #18 on a G17) and enlarge the fixing hole till it won't touch the plastic. Then the energy will transfer to the pin crossing the frame.
YES, you've got the idea Danke.

The plastic will still have to touch Part #18, but there will be no horizontal motion as it keeps the slide secure. But if you give the part enough free lateral space, it will keep the slide from ripping the fastener post off.

:D I'm just working on the write up.

The procedure is simple, however it will require a mill and the right end mills. A drill press if you are savvy perhaps.

I've already done maybe a dozen Glocks for others, they've been circulating around. The ones that came back to me I haven't seen break, and I'm hoping it stays that way. :)

e-luder February 12th, 2013 14:30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlong (Post 1759849)
YES, you've got the idea Danke.

The plastic will still have to touch Part #18, but there will be no horizontal motion as it keeps the slide secure. But if you give the part enough free lateral space, it will keep the slide from ripping the fastener post off.

:D I'm just working on the write up.

The procedure is simple, however it will require a mill and the right end mills. A drill press if you are savvy perhaps.

I've already done maybe a dozen Glocks for others, they've been circulating around. The ones that came back to me I haven't seen break, and I'm hoping it stays that way. :)
Yeah I've been doing that for years. But the problem was that over time the inner chasis ended up becoming wobbly. This was because there wasn't enough "support" for the screw to put a bit of pressure to properly hold the chasis in place. If I tighten the screw too tight, it still breaks the screw casing anyways because there is still the lateral movement to combat coming from the screw itself.. The casing did break but not as fast but over time it did.

I think the problem is that the screw itself is what absorbs the majority of the shock. And then it just wiggles around when the slide cycles and eventually that kinetic energy is transferred to screw casing and eventually wears down and breaks it. This is why the Guarder frames only break from the bottom section of the screw casing since there is that metal insert in there to protect the plastic. The problem is, it's not fully grounded to the frame to brace the impact a bit better which is why they still break..

I don't even use that bolt screw in some of my Glocks. I just bolt the chasis to the frame with SuperGlue or JB Weld. The recent way I've come with is only specific to the Guarder frame and It involves cementing the bottom section of the screw casing.... On stock frames it doesn't work because the casing will shred from the top first then make its way to the bottom....

But then again, I probably didn't do it as well as you do it....lol.

Qlong February 12th, 2013 14:42
Are you still using the counter sunk flat head? I'm using a button and socket fasteners, and I just thread lock that and it will stay put even allowing free lateral motion.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3356/img4714.JPG

e-luder February 12th, 2013 14:50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlong (Post 1759872)
Are you still using the counter sunk flat head? I'm using a button and socket fasteners, and I just thread lock that and it will stay put even allowing free lateral motion.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3356/img4714.JPG
I elongated the hole forwards and backwards (that is towards the end of muzzle and towards the hammer mech) ONLY and not side to side.

THe bolt screw is "free" to move back and fourth in the chasis but it still has a some material to go latch onto (the side to side part). I tried both stock and a Canadian Tire bolt for it and got the same results. So I deemed the fix useless....

From the looks of that pic, I looks like there is a surrounding interaction point between the screw and chasis. Which, seems like there is still a transfer of shock between the frame and bolt screw in that scenario. For the screw casing to be preserved, i think that the chasis needs to not grip the screw at all. That's why I ommit using that screw sometimes...

Qlong February 12th, 2013 15:07
There is actually zero lateral forces in contact with the post of the frame, but there will always be a minimal horizontal force with each cycle. Have you done anything to the bottom of the chassis? If the fastener is not thread locked, and it's tightened again, it makes this mod moot.

I've been using a G17 for about 2 years with a little under 2000 BBs and is still intact. :)

e-luder February 12th, 2013 15:26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlong (Post 1759886)
There is actually zero lateral forces in contact with the post of the frame, but there will always be a minimal horizontal force with each cycle. Have you done anything to the bottom of the chassis?
Not so much the bottom. Because of the design of my fix, the front side (under the muzzle) needed to be packed so that the chasis has a brace to take the forward shock and additinally stablize the frame.

kar120c February 12th, 2013 17:05
Quote:
Originally Posted by e-luder (Post 1759792)
I wouldn't go past the 150% benchmark and even then, it's pushing it.

The slide is too short and weight less than a standard size Glock. So a something like a 175% or 200% spring won't do much on a stock slide. It'll probably shorten the slide stroke such that it won't even complete the cycle to the rear. or worse, there will be too much resistance and the slide won't cycle at all.

For a steel slide you'd probably want a 175% spring since it is a bit heavier than the aluminum ones.

In general, most short barrelled Glock parts are close to not existing any more. That Guarder recoil rod has been out of stock for a long while now. I know that I found one on Dentrinity but someone here said that when he ordered, he got an email saying that the part was out of stock.

If you really want a Glock to "work on", the Marui Glock 17 is the preferred choice. Most aftermarket parts manufacturers cater the this platform because of its versatility. One minute it can be a competition type gun, the next it can be a skirmish gun...

Edit add:

Ordered Today both Guarder Steel recoil rod (black) and 6.03 inner barrel from First Factory

For your inner barrel, I generally follow a rule that if a target is below...say... 20ft or 30ft, i stay with an 6.03 barrel. Anything above that distance, I go 6.01 with a proper hop up tuning.

On a short barrelled Glock like yours though, I stick with 6.01 to to compensate for the short barrel length....
Thanks a lot, tomorrow I'll try to order the recoil rod hoping it is available, do you know what rear and front sights are goo for my KJW stock slide?

e-luder February 14th, 2013 02:01
Quote:
Originally Posted by kar120c (Post 1759922)
Thanks a lot, tomorrow I'll try to order the recoil rod hoping it is available, do you know what rear and front sights are goo for my KJW stock slide?
I don't know tobe honest. I never really tried to change the stock sights on a KJW before...

Not sure how each aftermarket company will fit the best on your KJW slide but be prepared to put in some time with a needle file or a dremmel to get a good fit (as with any other slide and sight combo for any pistol).

kar120c February 15th, 2013 10:38
Help me to chose the right Hop Up chamber
 
I am upgrading my KJW G27, I am ordering upgrades from different stores and I need help to chose the right hop up rubber chamber.
My intention is to find the original Marui stock one, but if I can't find it on the market the chose is different; I have found the Firefly but the are sold in three variants; extra soft, soft and Hard; what is the differenze and what other upgrades influence the performances of the Hop Up rubber?

p.phresh February 15th, 2013 13:31
Hardness of the hop rubber will depend on the FPS output of your gun. If it's greater than 330FPS (on 0.20g BBs) I'd go with a hard rubber. If it's less than 270 FPS i'd go with the extra soft, and for everything else in between go with the soft.

There's also no harm in using a hard rubber if you're not quite at 330 FPS, but plan to be there eventually.

Any hop up rubber designed for any TM GBB will fit across all pistols.

Danke February 15th, 2013 13:41
Any of you guys have a problem with the stock slide catch?

I just found my thumb rubs on it and locks the slide back.

kar120c February 15th, 2013 15:32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danke (Post 1761219)
Any of you guys have a problem with the stock slide catch?

I just found my thumb rubs on it and locks the slide back.
I don't know if my issue is similar, but, due also to my weak recoil spring, my slide seems to lock on to something when it is 3/4 back. Maybe the little metal wheel outside the hammer mechanism. This dosn't compromise cycling doe now but it is an annoying issue.
The pistol is a KJW G27, all stock for now

Danke February 15th, 2013 15:52
Mine is definitely the catch. I was fine until I tried switching from Modern Weaver to Isosceles.

kar120c February 15th, 2013 17:42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danke (Post 1761279)
Mine is definitely the catch. I was fine until I tried switching from Modern Weaver to Isosceles.
My pistol is new, only fired 400/500 bb's and perhaps needs a break in period and a steonger recoil spring


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