Originally Posted by Drake
(Post 864060)
The biggest problem on the WE 1911s was the front end blowing out (destroyed ring on the recoil spring plug and subsequently the bushing); as I posted in another thread, this is due to a design flaw where the recoil spring guide's length exceeds the depth of the recoil spring plug, therefor during the recoil cycle guide rams into the front of the cap. It's only a matter of time before it breaks. The solution is removing 2-3mm of material from the end of the recoil spring guide and rounding it off so it doesn't catch in the recoil spring.
An upgraded recoil spring (TM's fits) also helps, and if you're using a lot of power upgrades you can add a piece of Sorbo pad to the to the rear face of the dust cover (basically an airsoft Shok-Buff). This is just to generally avoid damage from wear.
The WE valve ports are marginally (~0.5-1mm) smaller than those found on other GBBs, so either manually increasing their size, or replacing them with TM valves, or upgraded high flow valves, will help with power. WE 1911 mags don't hold a whole lot of gas though, so this is probably only a good idea if you're planning on doing realcap loads (but you can get decent power if you are). [Edit: A side note to MEU(SOC).45 real cap loads, FR and MEU use Wilson, Kimber and/or Chip McCormick 8 round mags (which are the same size as the classic 7 round mags). Some FR operators also use their own Chip McCormick 10 round extended mags.]
The stock piston head is crap. Highly recommend the Nineball Dyna Piston head as a replacement (the TM 1911 one fits). I also performed some manual sealing on the hopup unit, with PTFE Teflon tape, while I was in there.
Another common problem with WE 1911s is the slide not locking back on the last shot. This is again either caused by a design or manufacturing defect in the slide stop latch; there's a small bump on the rear face (the one in contact with the slide stop plunger) -- not sure if it was designed like that, or if its left over from the casting process -- which gets "stuck" under the plunger, preventing it from moving up freely. Filing that down a bit so that the plunger can move over it smoothly resolves the issue. Additionally, stretching the follower spring in the magazine a bit (1-2 CM) and/or inserting a few BBs at the BASE of the magazine (i.e., under the spring, to create padding) will also help. (note that inserting BBs at the base will prevent you from using the BB fill hole)
The ambi safety tends to be crappy; the starboard side lever tends to become quite loose. A bit of PTFE teflon tape inside the socket will help it stay seated properly and make it usably snug.
IMO the stock barrel bushing looks weak and feels like very thin, cheap metal; a Western Arms aftermarket bushing is a perfect drop-in replacement. A real steel bushing will also work, but requires modification (the inside diameter is a fraction of a millimeter smaller than the barrel; it's steel, you'll need at least a Dremel and grinding head, and you'll have to make sure it's a proper circular shape. Proper tooling with a press is recommended).
And the finish on the WE's sucks. It's a weird grey, like early parkerizing. And it wears off just from staring at it menacingly enough. I plan on blueing my 1911 Classic. The MEU would get the same flat Epoxy finish black I use on AEGs.
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