Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get this scope zeroed in? Atleast I can still use it sometimes then...

If I'm correct, you COULD simply buy a C rail and put on whatever optics you want. I'm not 100% sure you can straight swap carry handles/optics but as far as I can tell on my CA36C you can.

Well, if you mean different lengths of hand guards, they should all fit any G36 model. The barrel assembly should be universal as well, but most extension kits are lazy and simply have a barrel extension that screws onto the end of the barrel, replacing the flash hider, while the gas-tube remains the same length.

If you're asking about whether the hand guards are compatible with the carry handles, they don't actually connect, even though it kinda looks like they do. Any should fit with any.

And if you meant something totally different, sorry, but I missed it, ha ha!

As for zeroing the optical sight, what might work is if you set the rifle down and aim down the emergency sights on top of the handle itself. Pick something a reasonable distance away (by which I mean something not too far away, but not point-blank either) and whatever they line up with, tweak the optical sight's reticule to match. Fire, and make adjustments as necessary. If your shots go way off, there's something wrong with something other than the sight.

Bingo! This is exactly the info I was looking for. So usually barrel extensions screw on like a flash hider?

My idea was to take my CA36C and be able to swap out just the inner barrel, handguard and carry handle to a K eventually but I didn't want to buy a kit and find it doesn't actually fit.
Thanks for the info!

Yeah, most conversion kits consist of just that: A carry handle, hand guard, and extension for the barrel, plus a new flash hider, as all three G36s have a unique flash hider.

So is there no way to zero the scope?

For Airsoft applications, since you aren't gonna be firing at something 500m away, ha ha, set the rifle down on something and look down the emergency sights on top of the carry handle and see what they're lined up with. Pick something a decent distance away...not too far, but not too close either. Then, adjust the optical sight so that the reticule is lined up on the same thing. Make adjustments as necessary. That's the easiest way to do it, and it works quite well with mine.

Ok thanks for the help =) Now I am hearing that the scope adjustment on the SRC version is not adjustable =S

well i have a scr g36k and have the same problem with the scope piss me off ALLOT !!!!
i manage to tight the H..T screw to hard that it came to half the zero...
well the thing is that i just got use to it, i'm pretty accurate with it at anny range lol ...
chek my vid
YouTube- Babas shooting src g36k
lol

Matrix 3.5 zoom carry handle
 

Seems to be zeroed decently out of the box, but I don't see how one can adjust these sights.
Has screw grooves along the sides but no actually hex or screw dial to twist... I've just been getting by with the back up sights for now.

g36 scope
 

I have a g36k with integrated scope in the handle, if you look closely near the front of the scope there are two (2) allen key screws one (1) for up/dpwn and one (1) for left/right. you can adjust these all you want you will just strip them.. unless... you take the crappy peice of plastic molding from around the front recticle scope lens and replace it with something flexible. I used black soft foam, it looks good and keeps the dirt and debris out of the scope channel. You now have a fully functioning scope, but it's very tiny/dark/limited view/ poorly and cheaply designed... but none the less working. If you need pics let me know I can post some of mine

http://tapatalk.com/mu/48de8dcd-4950-f45f.jpgThat's for the matrix 3.5 right?
And I'd appreciate the pictures if you can.


---
- -iPhone-
Primary: JG G36c (upgraded)
Secondary: Cold Steel Tactical Knife (rubber)

I have lost the peice that goes aroud the scope to show you what it looks like, but it (the scope) basically has a inner ring, just a few millimeters from the edge, that the hard rubber peice locks onto. You can pry it off with some small flathead screw drivers. Then cut a peice of medium or soft foam about the same size as what you removed. Really it's just to keep debris (dirt) out of the handle and scope area. Anyways thats my fix (it's not like a regular scope that the cross hairs move, the recticle is mounted (painted) and the whole scope moves.

Has anyone tried to see if there are dust caps to be removed in order to get to the adjustment screws? Old thread, had to scan over it, many if not most scopes have dust covers that resemble adjustment screws on them, which need to be removed, and I've found over the years a LOT of people mistake them for the adjustment screws, and posted in threads like this confused as hell.