Ok, tnx it is what I did. About the little blue piston inside the stock nozzle, should I reuse in the new nozzle?

I have plenty of lightweight blowback units for Hi-Capas in stock... as well as Guns Modify Glock BBU's.

Anyone try this plastic magazine ?
http://www.airsofttaiwan.com/shop/goods.php?id=920

Hmm.

I dunno about plastic. lol.
That can't be good for the mag if it's dropped...

I have a feeling if I ever had those magazines, they'd be for situations where I might lose them/destroy them... like field games or games where I can't retention reload.

They offer more realism.

Anyone can help me? I tried adding thickness to the mag catch but doesn't works

Try one of these:

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/nine-ball...-gbb-2pcs.html

These usually come with a shim that you can use and bring the gasket closer to your loading muzzle.

And these seal pretty well...

I have tried 2 of these, better sealing with the nozzle but my issue is the valve position.
Today I tried to fit the mag pushing it to the back of the pistols and it works well but it is not easy to handle such a short mag in this way.

Hi everyone! I have been following this thread for a little while now and in that time tried to make my own Glock 17 build! I am most worried about how durable my build was going to last so would someone tell me if I have done anything wrong? Here's a list of what I have in it:

-PGC Slide and Barrel
-AKA Blowback Housing
-Guarder Night Sights (Original Plastic ones cracked)
-Guarder Gen4 Slide Stop
-Guarder Frame

Here are some of the funkier parts:
-Wii Tech 150% Recoil Spring with Shock Buffer
http://www.wiitech.com.hk/eshop/images/1195a.JPG
I am actually using the stock recoil spring now but took the buffer from the Wii-Tech (pretty much a piece of hard rubber) because, after reading through this thread, it seems weaker recoil springs generally increase durability?
-WE Hammer Housing with assorted parts and WE Trigger Bar
I am not sure if any changes have been made with the newest line of WE G17's from the factory but I have found that most of the internals, at least from the lower frame, fit in the Maruis with little to no modification such as sanding things down.

I am planning to add JB Weld onto my front screw post as soon as I can. Does it harden and dry? Will it stick to the chassis afterward? Do I just follow the sample pictures I saw on this thread? Thanks alot!!! :)

Will that work with the TM 18c?

NO.

That loading muzzle is only specifically for a Marui Glock 17.

Oh, well I need a new nozzle for the g18 since my guarder one split in half :D

recommendations?

Hi all,

I'm currently running a TM G18C. Stock internals apart from a guarder 150% recoil spring.

The frame suffered the front trigger guard crumbling after it's first skirmish, although while playing, every once in a while the slide stopped on its return stroke a few mm from completion.

I've since installed a Guarder frame and recoil spring (thinking it would solve the return stroke issue, but didn't work), so have started to investigate in depth why the slide sometimes stops cycling.

What I've found is that the full auto sear is very stiff for the slide to depress on its return stroke due to the hammer having a lot of contact area against the sear. Because of this the slide gets to the point where it interacts with the full auto sear, then rides up over it slightly and due to there being so little slop between the slide and frame, the slide stops moving and requires a push to manually return it.

Is the sear supposed to be this stiff against the hammer? I know the KM and Guns Modify hammers are designed slightly differently, do these allow the full auto sear to be depressed easier?

I can take photos if it helps clarify the problem?






Thanks,

Paul.

Not really.
The Gunsmodify hammer...maybe. But the KM one I know is only slightly different. And the only difference between the stock hammer and GunsModify one is that the SEMI sear engage points are different.

What you need to really about based on your description is the spring that actuates the full-auto sear. What makes the sear "stiff" is partly due to how stiff that spring is.

If the slide can't depress that spring, it will leave the full-auto sear in the position you're describing.

Of course, the counter to that is HOW the slide is depressing the mechanism as a whole. That is, is your BBU damaged in any way that it is causing this problem? or is your full-auto sear damaged in such a way that the BBU can no longer actuate it?

These are just a few suggestions and you may choose to investigate each avenue or none. But I would look at the spring mostly. Make sure that it is lubed properly...