Airsoft, the dovetail has been cleared for BBU....

For RS sight you need to remove a ton of material there...

Key Word:
Anvil Trijicon Style Steel Sight Set For Marui MEU

Real steel sights won't fit out of the box. Front sights can, with light modification... rear sights... will require heavy modification. You'll also have to shape some features to fit the BBU and slide assembly precisely, or the sight will wobble and/or fall out.

Wouldn't it just be the same as someone fitting an MEU rear sight to the Nova slide?

I'd assume so, since I guess this is made for MEU...

So can that be done?

If I *ever* get around to disassembling my Warrior's upper assembly, I'll give it a shot - assuming I'll ever have to disassemble it (maybe to install a super light weight bbu... hmm....), and assuming nobody else has done it yet.

That'll be great, give us all a shout about your finding if you get around to try it....

I bent the furthest right prong farther forward and the most left one out more to be sure it wasn't the leaf spring, and it wasn't. Instead of I found that the sear disconnector, when pushed down far enough to mimic the slide running over it during the blow back action, doesn't come back up. I have to depress the hammer a couple more before it seems to pop back (up). Would this be the smaller pin next to the slide catch that's doing something weird to the disconnector? Or the disconnector just too big to fit into the tight space and needs room to giggle around?

I got the trigger to work. According to my mom, I got my dad's genes because he can't rest until he gets everything working. He was with me again troubleshooting the whole gun. We ended up stripping it bare and fixing the valve knocker spring because it was slightly bent, causing the sear to move on an angle making the sear disconnector rub so tightly against the frame that there was no bounce. It would get stuck.

So we bent the valve knocker spring a little and ..NICE. =)

Actually it didn't work and what we ended up finding is that the Nova Warrior receiver is narrower than the stock receiver. That means that the gears inside had not enough room to move. Everything was jammed up in there. So I'm going to sand the sear disconnector.

Edit: Thanks for all your help guys. Still looking into it as sanding the sear disconnector only caused the ambi-safety to wobble when the hammer has not been cocked.

I noticed this exact same problem with an MEU install I did with the Nova MEU conversion kit.

I solved this by lightly filing a small ramp in to the back of the sear to allow a bit more clearance for the sear disconnector to slide behind it. It seems to have a bit of difficulty doing so. The Marui M1911A1 never seemed to have this problem with the Nova kits. Seems like only the MEU does.

Ok...I'm going to start into a 1911/MEU build...not sure which one nor which route just yet. I'm decently familiar with the Hicapa's but don't know my way around as intimately with the single stackers re. availability/compatibility of all the parts.

I'm ok with putting this pistol together one part at a time if I need to.
Q. Are there any parts for a 1911/MEU that are just impossible (or really, really hard/expensive) to get? i.e. like the hicapa chamber/houp unit...or the hicapa rear sight?
Q. Sort of the same question...If I have a 1911 frame/slide set in hand...are all the remaining parts available separately?

This is going to be a field gun...not a showpiece.
Q. With the myriad of clones out there...am I better off getting a clone and tweaking in upgraded parts here and there....or is the "only" way to do it is to get a TM 1911 and a "TM Spec'd" FMU kit?

MEU vs. 1911
Q. I've picked up that the blowback unit and the little bolt on plate that the hammer strikes are different between the two...are there any other parts that are not the same? i.e. mag catch, sear/hammer/etc....?

Bushings
Q. I've seen some manufacturers note their bushings as Type 1 or Type 2, etc...what are the differences between those?

Hopup unit
Q. Anticipating that the hopup unit is killer to find on it's own...is it possible to use a HiCapa hopup unit in a 1911/MEU and use a Hicapa type spring guide? i.e. will it fit the outer barrel, loading nozzle, frame cuts?

TM Compatibility of alternatives
There's a bunch of 1911/MEU makes out there...KJW, WE, ARMY, Meister, KWA, etc...
I'm pretty certain that the KWA is not 99% TM compatible...are the others?
- I've heard that the WE is not, that the ARMY 1911 is 100%, that the KJW is supposed to be...any firm confirmations one way or another?
- This question is in regards to more than just the mags...really regarding the internals.

Thanks a bunch, if I can firm up answers I'll post them into here for easy reference.

Tys

I'm ok with putting this pistol together one part at a time if I need to.
Q. Are there any parts for a 1911/MEU that are just impossible (or really, really hard/expensive) to get? i.e. like the hicapa chamber/houp unit...or the hicapa rear sight?
Q. Sort of the same question...If I have a 1911 frame/slide set in hand...are all the remaining parts available separately?

You need an Inner frame, no one AFAIK makes one. Unlike Hi-Capa where most parts is carried on the metal frame, MEU/1911 has a inner frame that the outer plastic one(as well as the aftermarket metal ones) "sleeve" over. The inner frame carries the actual rail for the slide and the mechanical bits thats screwed and pinned via a screw up front and the hammer pins. Without it, its no go. Other than that and the hop-up(same problem with Hi-capa) everything else can be used from aftermarket. BTW this is why I kept bugging Brian W to bug Capt KK to make a Hi-Cap style frame in 1911 single stack....


This is going to be a field gun...not a showpiece.
Q. With the myriad of clones out there...am I better off getting a clone and tweaking in upgraded parts here and there....or is the "only" way to do it is to get a TM 1911 and a "TM Spec'd" FMU kit?

Not having handled a clone(lucky me), not sure how good/bad/different they are. If you are planning a Nova/PGC build anyway, IMO you might as well start from stock and avoid any extra headache down the line, especially seeing that inner bit is still the central of the build.


MEU vs. 1911
Q. I've picked up that the blowback unit and the little bolt on plate that the hammer strikes are different between the two...are there any other parts that are not the same? i.e. mag catch, sear/hammer/etc....?

no idea...

Bushings
Q. I've seen some manufacturers note their bushings as Type 1 or Type 2, etc...what are the differences between those?

In Nova's case, its just the look. there are thick, thin, Wilson Combat, Kimber...etc.




Hopup unit
Q. Anticipating that the hopup unit is killer to find on it's own...is it possible to use a HiCapa hopup unit in a 1911/MEU and use a Hicapa type spring guide? i.e. will it fit the outer barrel, loading nozzle, frame cuts?


Yes, Hi-capa one will work....the only difference(important one any way), is the little stem to capture the short recoil spring guide used by 1911. Using a Hi-capa one though will require you to use full length guide.



TM Compatibility of alternatives
There's a bunch of 1911/MEU makes out there...KJW, WE, ARMY, Meister, KWA, etc...
I'm pretty certain that the KWA is not 99% TM compatible...are the others?
- I've heard that the WE is not, that the ARMY 1911 is 100%, that the KJW is supposed to be...any firm confirmations one way or another?
- This question is in regards to more than just the mags...really regarding the internals.

Thanks a bunch, if I can firm up answers I'll post them into here for easy reference.


KWA is KSC. Not the same system.

WE uses Hi-Capa-esque mechanics, I am guessing no inner frame, they also use different mag. The upper/slide bits might be usable. Not sure what its hop look like.

The rest I am pretty sure are all TM clones.





Personally I'd use 1911 instead of MEU. But I can see MEU being cheaper since you can recycle all the modern controls on it. There are more 1911 parts at the moment I think, but all the bits cost $$$. I'd stick with a MEU kit on MEU or 1911 kit on 1911 though. Just to avoid any potential hassle...

Thanks RM...

Re. the thick/thin bushings...I'm guessing you mean the front plate thickness (i.e. the "flange" that is visible on the front of the slide)? That makes sense...hard to tell from individual parts pics.

I had forgotten completely about the inner part of the frame...thank you! That's almost going to necessitate buying a 100% compatible clone just to gut...or buying a TM to just swap the frame/slide. LOL that immediately ramps up the cost of this field gun project. Ugg

The hardest part to get is the main internal receiver component and the internal mechanism cover plate - this is impossible to get without actually buying a 1911/MEU. Unlike Hi-Capas who have the mechanical components contained in the receiver itself, the single stacks utilize an inner "receiver" that slides in to the external receiver. If you can find a way to get these parts separately, let me know.

All other components may be somehow acquired or cobbled together through various aftermarket kits. Depending on the kit you get, some may negate the need for a certain part, OR it may come with that part.

No. See above.

If you want the least headaches, start with TM. The looser tolerances with clones can cause a myriad of problems. Besides, like Hi-Capas, there is no such thing as a "100% clone". During the build, you're going to run in to some small dimensioning issue that you just couldn't anticipate.

Yes, pretty much ALL CONTROLS (internally, they're the same.) Granted, you can swap parts between the two, so you'll need to figure out what type of a build you're going with FIRST, before you decide what gun to go with if you want to save some time and money.
For example, if you were going with a modern type build for practical shooting, starting with the M1911A1 Government will cost you more to get it up to speed. The trigger, hammer, beavertail (grip) safety, thumb safety, mag catch and slide catch are all old style. You would need to replace all of those parts (roughly $200-$400 for aftermarket parts) to get it up to speed with a modern build.
Some parts, such as the beavertail safety and the hammer are not compatible between the 1911/MEU without modifications. The receivers are different at the tang - it's distinct between the old school 1911 and modern 1911's.

The differences describe the length/shape of the prongs that come out the bottom of the bushing face (that interact with the spring plug.) Pick the one accurate to your build. Some are longer, some are shorter, some are slightly curved.

Yes, it's possible. I've done this with a competition MEU I've built.

Like I said earlier in this thread, I have minimal experience with clones and don't particularly care about them enough to make a mental note of the differences as i come across them. The main conclusion I've come to is that NO clone is truly a 100% clone.
If anybody else has the answer to these questions, please feel free to post.


Edit: Yeah. What Andrew said above. Busted hand making me take longer to type...

Ok...thanks guys.

Step one...pick a platform...either 1911 or MEU

Then...buy a "fixer"/broken plastic frame/slide TM and gut the essential parts out of it to lift into a metal frame/slide set.

Or...buy a new TM to gut the essential parts...

Then...pick choose the individual parts to tweak/tune/bling it out.

bummer...Illusion's fancy pre/near assembled FMU MEU's are looking more and more attractive with every question that gets answered...:)

Yes... the single stack is amazing. DOOO it.