GHK AKM GBBR Review
 

GHK AKM GBBR Review

*A note about the images in this review. Upon receiving this rifle I immediately took it completely apart and stripped the bluing and aged the wood to weather it, henceforth I have used some stock images of the GHK AKM from other sources when referring to how the rifle comes out of the box.

By Kokanee

First Impressions

The GHK AKM GBBR has been out for a few months so far, and I was lucky enough to snag one for the very reasonable price of $680 here on the classifieds. Rifle was second hand but NIB condition and came with all the original packaging and bits. The packaging from the factory was standard heavy cardboard and with cardboard cutouts; no chance of anything getting tossed around. Aside from the included magazine GHK also provided a great user manual which describes how to field strip and maintain the rifle; although I you are already familiar with real steel AK's and have been in the sport for awhile, it's all common sense.

http://blog.gunfire.pl/wp-content/ga...m-by-ghk/2.jpg
(Image provided by blog.gunfire.pl)

Upon unboxing the rifle and picking it up I was surprised by how light it was compared to my CA SLR 105 (review here: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=32588 ). It only clocks in at 3.1kg compared to 3.5 for the CA SLR, and 3.6kg for a real AKM. However, this is swiftly corrected by the insertion of a magazine. Weighing 0.5kg, the fully loaded AKM is bang on the weight of a real AKM with a loaded mag.

I was very impressed by the quality of the finish on the wood furniture and the receiver as well as the rest of the metal components. All metal parts (except barrel) are steel including the cast part like the front sight tower and finished with a very deep bluing job.

http://wmasg.pl/var/images/text/99748/2/GHK-AKM-2.jpg
(Image provided by wmasg.pl)

What I am not wild about on this rifle is the crappy, injection moulded plastic pistol grip that GHK used;

http://www.intrudershop.com/mmc/imag...GHK-AKM-09.jpg
(Image provided by intrudershop.tw)

It looks completely fake and very very cheap, thankfully it can be replaced by a real grip with no modifications.

Performance

This GBBR is an absolute beast right out of the box, shooting 390fps with very good recoil. I actually had to undo the screws on the front sight tower and gas tube and apply red locktite vs blue, as the recoil from cycling was working them loose.

Accuracy is extremely good even with the bolt cycling on full auto, and the hopup is a pleasure to adjust; gone are the days of the TM style lever hopup, GHK has opted for a big giant dial and is easy to manipulate even with gloved fingers and stays put once you adjust it properly.

I did have an issue initially with the bolt failing to cycle completely, however it turned out to be an ammo issue (Madbull .30g). Once I switched to BB Bastard .28g bb's there were no problems.

On the topic of gas economy, this GBBR is outstanding. The new 7.62mm type magazines hold a good amount of propane and I have not had any issues of running out of gas before all the ammo in the magazine was expended. The magazines themselves are very high quality, same all steel construction as the real thing, and the fill port is located at the top of the magazine which means it is hidden in the receiver when inserted into the rifle; great for preventing foreign material building up in the valve.

With 40 round magazines and no upgrades needed at all out of the box, this GBBR rifle is ready-to-go skirmishable right from the start. A welcome change from some other GBBRs that have entered the market in the past.

Aftermarket Parts and Improvements

There are currently two aftermarket parts available for the GHK AKM GBBR. First is an enhanced blowback kit from parts manufacturer "Samoon";

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/media/cat...N04_1_mark.jpg
(Image provided by ehobby Asia)

This kit increases the amount of recoil generated by the rifle. In order to accomplish this it replaces the stock bolt gas tube with one that is weighted, and a stiffer recoil spring. I've installed this kit in my GHK AKM and I would say it doubles the amount of felt recoil while slowing down the ROF to a more realistic 600rpm, replicating the distinctive "chatter" sound of a real AK. There is also an aftermarket steel barrel from the same company available.

This GBBR will also take pretty much every real part off another real steel AK except for the receiver and internal parts. The wood furniture is 100% the exact dimensions of real stuff, and all the cuts for the rear stock are right WRT how it mounts to the receiver. So picking up a real stock set will be a drop in affair. Rear sight blocks, gas tubes and blocks, front sight posts etc will all fit on no problems, however you would have to pin them to the barrel as per actual factory assembly methods.

In terms of improvements, I stripped the bluing from the receiver and other metal components IOT weather the rifle. As well the wood furniture was aged, with the pistol grip being replaced by a real Russian bakelite pistol grip. Overall a big improvement in the looks department as I'm not a fan of the "just out of a catalogue" look;

http://i52.tinypic.com/35cqwt1.jpg

http://i53.tinypic.com/142ga6v.jpg

Conclusion

Overall this is the most authentic replica AK I have ever had the pleasure to use firsthand; it simply puts all AEG replicas to shame in terms of build quality and authenticity. The Real Sword series comes very very close being top shelf in terms of build quality, but as an AEG it comes up short in terms of realism and user satisfaction against this GBBR.

I have had a great time using this on the field and for any sort of insurgent/tribal villager/rebel role I wouldn't even consider another rifle, the sound of this GBBR on full auto makes heads duck and it's great to not have to worry about your primary when caught in a rain storm.

I am awarding this GBBR 9 out of 10 bullets

http://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpghttp://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/ite...hter-44f09.jpg

Now that's a review.... Great job brother!

From what I saw of yours, and from owning a Real Sword, I agree on all points.

Now i'm curious how the WE will compare out of the box.

Already, having experienced WE's 'Out of Box' expenses with their other models this is becoming very appealing to me.

Winter project I think :)

Hmmmm...maybe I'll keep the one I got

A lot of people we're reluctant whenever I mentioned them because of past, well documented "trainwrecks" from GHK. I knew they changed the system, but I'm glad to know they're actually good quality!

Good stuff!

Yeah the internals have been completely reworked compared to previous GHK releases. That, and the move for externals from DBoys to LCT is a big improvement.

Got a question about these, if you were to get a M4 stock tube adapter, like ones from Vltor:

http://www.vltorstore.com/products/A...k-Adapter.html

Will that work? For RS the Vltor one is stated to work with stamped AK receivers only, not the milled ones. On the same token, the rail system from Ultimak also have the same distinction:

http://ultimak.com/ACR2Long.htm

Does the GHK fit the spec for a stamped or milled receiver?

The Vltor stock adaptor is sweet.

Check out this rail by US Palm - might be something you are interested in:

https://uspalm.com/component/magebri...tml?Itemid=102

To gold plate or not .... that is the question ... LOL

Anybody been running theirs hard? I wanna know how the internals are holding up.

Yeah if I were to go with the AK build I'd get the US PALM/MI M2 Top cover.....they have one specifically for 30mm sight, which would put my Aimpoint ML3 back on a gun...in that case I'd skip the Ultimak route...

Had one and it's one of the best airsoft I ever had, most realistic AK ever period!

The Russian AKM is a stamped receiver, so this would be stamped.

About 3000 rounds this summer, no problems so far. Barely had a chance to break it in only took it to about five games.

I have the GHK Ak74,while I like it,it is lacking.It is nice to hear that
GHK has a better model out,I think I will buy one this winter.
thanks Kokanee for the review.

Any idea what thread the flash hider is?

Anyhow, mine is here, a few question though. I am having issue with a charged(gassed up) mag, with the gun on safe, fingers away from the trigger, my somewhat clumsy AK mag insertion seems to cause the gun to fire by itself.....which is not going to be terribly safe....is this normal or its just my poor technique?

I've had that happen a couple times. I got the gun yesterday.

The mag insertion aspect was not well designed. I can barely get the mags to sit right at home, I can't imagine trying to get it in during a firefight.

Kokanee, any plans to find an AK kit and switch out everything that fits?

I'm not happy with the finish of the rifle and the quality of the wood. I'm coming from a Realsword though.

Real ak M14 CCW I read from some where.

The technique helps a lot with the misfire issue.....you really have to rock it, and you really have to apply pressure and push against the front "hook" while rocking it back, or else mag may not find home, or it might mis-fire....

Keep the gun off safe too, as the cycling bolt if it misfires will bash against the selector...

I am getting real steel spring guide rod and a AMD65 gas tube for it, as I am using a RIS kit that doesn't need the upper handguard flanges....

I have a RS Yugo M70 kit sitting in a box right now, maybe I'll get to it in the spring but it's a big job as I have to swap the receiver out too.

I find the finish (other than the aluminum barrel) and wood to be spot on compared to the real deal I've handled before... but spot on for a russian or bulgy AK, not a chinese POS which the Real Sword would indeed be closest to.

Compare the RealSword side by side with the GHK. RS has GHK beat in terms of build material and finish, though GHK did extremely well. In my opinion, GHK's finish better represents some of the American manufactured clone/kit AKs south of the border. I don't think the Type 56 that RS produces is intended to be a perfect replica of the Type 56. The Type 56 that China used to produce had a lot of variations and with the numbers produced, obviously quality took a hit. The manufacturing process and quality control has significantly improved since the cold war though and those improvements have been implemented in the product design.

Don't get me wrong though, this is still the best AK GBBR out there and one of the most realistic airsoft guns that have yet come into existence, with extensive real steel compatibility to boot, but doing a direct visual comparison of the RS and the GHK, credit must be given where it is deserved.

Another thing to note - I can't seem to rust the GHK, unlike the RS. I went over it with superfine steel wool for a while, put salt water on it and wrapped it in damp cloth near a radiator.
Maybe I'm not doing it right but one time I left my RS wrapped in my BDU in the trunk of a car overnight and in the morning the whole thing (every visible part) was covered in rust. Came off clean, though I regret not leaving it on, for some pitting.

I'm waiting on a 4 piece russian AKM wood kit and a couple of bakelite grips. Should be here any day, but who knows with customs.
I'm also planning to buy a GunsModify steel barrel, with those fancy cooling lines that RealSword has me demanding.

Also, my hopup cylinder broke. $5 piece of plastic that is out of stock everywhere. Shoots some but hopup is funky. There are some modifications to be done to the magazine lips and the hopup cylinder to make things smoother.

What cooling lines? They look like bad machining mark....
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gunsmodif...bb-series.html

That's what samoon barrel users say.

Ha, we need a real expert because google hasn't helped.

Does anyone know yet if real steel spring guides fit?

Thats what someone who uses a lathe say.....

Cooling needs "fins" not machine mark....

I have a RS spring guide, but for whatever reason its short....and it'll need to remove some material for it to fit in the rear guide seat....

I think the bolt travel in the GHK is limited by the sectioned off guide, not sure what would happen if you cut that off...

Has anyone installed a NPAS nozzle on their GHK AKM?

I've read that the RA-Tech NPAS for GHK AKs were meant for the earlier versions and would not fit the AKMs. I don't know if what they're selling at the many online retailers are the new ones(if it's made) or still old versions. It just says for GHK AKs.

There's also a French made adjusting FPS nozzle but they say it's not meant to use on systems over 200 psi. I'll be getting some of the CO2 mags and they are 800psi. That's over 500fps on the AKM as some usere have reported.

The C02 mags was design without an after thought of how would one remove the empty C02 capsule that's in the mag. Save yourself some frustration and possible damage to the mag. I had to bang the bottom of the mag on my concrete floor to jar loose the stuck capsule.

Take a light AEG spring and cut about an inch section. I used a stock TM AEG spring and placed it into the C02 chamber before you put the capsule in. The spring is light enough to compress when you screw down the cap to puncture the opening of the capsule and yet strong enough to pop the capsule out when you unscrew the cap. Don't use the mag bottom plate as a screw driver to tighten the threaded cap like you see on YouTube. It's not strong enough. Use a coin. I used a 0.25 cent coin.

A new 12g C02 capsule is good enough for 1 full mag. I got 3 cases of 15 capsules at Walmart for about $42. That's about a dollar for each time you use the C02 mag. This will get expensive to run these mags all the time but the harder recoil from using them.... priceless!!!

I've been way too busy lately that I haven't been able to update or take pictures.

Anyway, I got it to rust. Salt water, warmth, and humidity. Ended up rusting the whole thing over a few times, leaving it to sit for a couple weeks each time. You've got to let it sit for a couple weeks while it's rusted, otherwise it won't cause any pitting and you'll be basically right back where you started (as long as you don't scratch up the finish with anything other than fine or superfine steel wool).

The Russian wood kit came in too - what a beauty - took me a while to drill and trim to fit, but it's well worth the ~$100 I paid for it. Thicker, older, denser wood (more layers of lamination) , and all the proper realsteel fittings (including the spring to shoot my real sword cleaning kit out of the stock). I put some wax and oil on the wood to preserve and protect it as well. No more upper handguard wobble for sure!

All I need now is a steel barrel. With that, it'll realistically be to the point where you can't tell the difference between it and an original, even if you had it in your hands. It looks that good now.

Buy some wood kits and start rusting!

Just got the steel barrel for mine to finish it off - gives it a little more heft and if you're planning on weathering the rifle, blends in better than the aluminium stock barrel.

Hey Kid, I would love to see some pictures when you get time. I love the worn look of older AKs, and may end up copying you!

Ghk akm
 

How did you remove the bluing? How did you weather the wood? Thanks

Has anyone run this on duster? IS it even possible?

Edit: Or any other way to get it under 350 fps

WGC has the nozzle with under 1J. ..

How is this gun standing up, I am interested in one?

Quite well actually. I started to get some stoppages when firing with the bolt carrier partially forward; immediate action of pulling the bolt handle back and letting it fly would then result in a slam fire. Turns out the pin that was used to hold the rear sight base onto the barrel was slightly too small in diameter and the sight base started to wobble , causing friction and not allowing the bolt carrier to travel all the way forward.

Fixed this by boring out the hole in the sight base and installing a real AKM pin which was larger, did the trick. Other than that no problems whatsoever... The mags could be easier to maintain as I have had a few pop seals, winter project is to sit down, strip them down to parts, soak in oil a few days and reassemble and they should be fine.

"Naval Jelly" rust remover and a variety of sandpaper and blunt objects to rough up the wood.

Are the leaks on the shaft of the striking part of the valve,that is where mine
is leaking on the first GHK they made. The silver shaft has two orings,but the
brass cylinder it rides in is rough.:cool:

nah, leaking from the gas tubes themselves

"gas tubes"? do you just mean the main reservoir? or do GHK mags have tubes all in there somewhere

They have a dual reservoir system comprised of two cylinders.

I just upgraded to the PROWIN magazines and wanted to post up about my experiences with them and other PROWIN upgrade parts that I have started to install in this rifle.

The new magazines from PROWIN are far far superior to the standard GHK magazines. Gone is the dual tube gas reservoir and instead the PROWIN magazines feature a CnC machined aluminum reservoir which will positively, absolutely not leak so long as you treat it right, unlike the GHK mags which are very labour intensive to keep in working order.

I do have to say that the external shell on the GHK mag is superior to the PROWIN, being blued steel instead of the painted phosphate steel finish on the PROWIN mags. However, if one is really hard up and wants nice blued steel mags, it's just a matter of stripping and reblueing.

One issue with the PROWIN mags, I had quite a bit of a problem with feeding. The rifle was plagued with constant "bolt partially forward" stoppages. The fix for this was to cut away the bottom of the feed ramp on the chamber; however installing a PROWIN CnC Aluminum nozzle set fixed all feeding issues and actually the bolt cycles better than when the rifle was stock. So something to keep in mind if you are going to put some cash into the PROWIN magazines (which are very, very much worth it over the GHK ones) then remember to install the matching PROWIN nozzle to prevent issues with feeding.

I have a PROWIN metal chamber on the way, as well as a PROWIN firing pin so I will update here when I've installed those components.

Was lurking to find a solution to the above issues which I experience as well. Curious to see if a combination of the PROWIN firing pin and magazines will alleviate the issue or if it will still come down to technique when inserting a magazine to prevent the misfires.

Thanks for the well crafted review and subsequent follow ups, Kokanee. I'm looking forward to your findings with these new parts installed.

Hey Kokanee,

Did you have the bolt partially forward problem with the standard GHK magazines as well? I am having the same issue with my GHK magazines so I just wanted to see how you solved this on your gun.

I was but only once in a while. I chalked it up to a loose rear sight base and once I fixed that it seemed to go away, but came back after a little bit.... I will try out a standard GHK magazine in my gun today and see how it feeds with the PROWIN nozzle assembly... But I have a feeling it will feed just fine.

Honestly I have never had this problem; I insert a magazine using the proper method and all is well. Sorry I can't offer any advice on this; try hitting up the gasgunforum though.

I put in the magazine and manually cycled the bolt a few times. It seems to have improved on one of my magazines, but the other one would jam every 5-10 rounds.

Also just putting this out there, if anyone else run into this problem, remove the magazine first and then clear the jam. DO NOT push the bolt forward by force as the gun will fire. Ask me how I know...

With the PROWIN nozzle the rifle cycles smooth as butter, stock with no magazine in the stock nozzle would stick sometimes that is what is causing your misfeeds.

I'll have another look when I get home.

BTW, thanks for posting up all this info, it's a great read for those who are new to the platform.

I am a river to my people; it flows like a crystal stream, etc...

As long as it is not a yellow stream, I shall follow.

Okay problem, the PROWIN nozzle is a high flow nozzle; gun is shooting 430fps @ 20 degrees celcius... wayyyy too hot. So I'm going to try a stock nozzle + PROWIN hopup chamber combo and see if that works but keeps the velocity low.

So I have a wood kit coming in from mother Russia, along with a Hephaestus Recoil spring kit and aluminum bolt Guide Rod to increase recoil. But I am planning on de-bluing through the following process.
1) Soak the external parts and pins and barrel ect. in White vinegar for 15 minute intervals
2) Wipe the oxidized metal from the body every 20 minutes
3) Repeat until removed
4) Then put in the oven at 250
5) Heat for 20 minutes
6) I plan to scuff with steel wool then layer in gun grease to protect it
7) I'm then planning on just scuffing the bolt up after to mimic the finish and I also plan to scuff the furniture up maybe toss it around he yard a bit

Anyone know if this process will work with the steel and aluminum barrel?
Also does anyone know how much work it'll take to fit my new hand-guards as I cant stand the upper grip movement.

Also can anyone post a description of a full disassembly of the gun? I don't want to mess with the trigger ect to unlblue the gun, thanks guys ill post pics soon.

Alright guys i have a rather massive problem. I received a Hephaestus steel gas tube and recoilspring and rod. Installed a prowin cnc hop and prowin high out put valve and cut down bucking. My problem now is whenever i fire the first shot goes about 90 feet and the second or third will jam the gun in the 3/4 loaded position. After inspection of the bb it apears scarred on the sides which i had to mark in pink due to my garbage camera. Any ideas?
Actually i dont know how to post pics from my iphone so :/

What you want is an actual rust remover; bluing is just a controlled rust process. Best to get a jelly type remover and then you can just wipe it on/rinse off. Also you will want to buy a steel barrel as the aluminum barrel will not age just like the steel, it looks horrible side by side. Regarding the hand guards, they simply slide out of the gas tube sideways, it's a twisting motion. Although I am curious why you are putting on real wood as the stock GHK wood is pretty spot onto the real thing. But all the more power to you.

Full disassemble of the gun is as per a real steel AKM with a few minor differences.

Here is a shot of my AKM today showing the weathering done;

http://i.imgur.com/hfgU5Kc.jpg

The Hephaestus gas tube is most likely too low, resulting in the gas piston striking it when cycling. Try installing the stock gas tube and see if that fixes it.

Which magazines are you using? Also it is generally considered a bad idea to run both the PROWIN metal nozzle and metal hop chamber as over long term you'll most likely damage the nozzle.

Greetings from Montreal!

first of, my name is Herb, and a new member here :)

I just picked up the GHK AKMS yesterday, and noticed a very annoying issue:
the magazine locking pin is very loose, the pin keeps getting pushed out everytime i push the mag release. Does anyone has this issue? I already contacted Samoon and they will send a replacement. I am still disapointed that it doesnt come perfect after I paid $550 for it :(

Secondly in your opinion, is it worth it to get the upgrade for velocity ,blowback kit, and the steel barrel? With shipping I am looking at adding $200 to the gun that already cost so much. The gun will not be used for gaming btw.

cheers,
Herb

Just the steel barrel and a real pistol grip if you are collecting vs gaming.

I would probably get only the prowin hop up chamber and a prometheus inner barrel for increase accuracy. The trigger components seem pretty good already. The prowin valve knocker didn't work at all for me, and required some modifications for both GHK AK74U and AKM. As such, I would suggest using the stock valve knocker and also, stick with the stock plastic nozzle too.

I ordered an Action Aluminum Cylinder Bulb and a Hephaeteus valve knocker just for kicks to see if it actually works. Will report back my results.

Hi,

I have very annoying problem with my GHK AKM. In three months of use I've already broken four nozzles and all cacked in same way (same broken leg):

https://imageshack.com/scaled/medium/819/f5v5.jpg

Anybody have any idea what is causing this? Last nozzle broke after two magazines. It is driving me crazy.

I would agree with the fellows on gasguns.info that the modifications you have made to the rifle have thrown it out of spec (bolt carrier too heavy, rotating off axis due to wobbly gas piston) and that is causing the bolt (which is a wear item) to break prematurely.

Perhaps consider installing the heavy recoil piston with the stock connector, locktite it and see if that fixes your problem?

A note on the PROWIN CnC chamber; I received mine but it was completely out of spec; waaayyyyy too large to fit where it needed to. Despite more than an hour of careful filing on my part, I was unable to get it to fit inside without hammering on it, and that began to deform it so I gave up.

I am sticking with the stock chamber and PROWIN CnC nozzle which is shooting right at 415fps right now so it's perfect for my region's velocity limits.

PROWIN really, really needs to make a standard CnC nozzle vs just the high flow one, especially as it seems there magazines cause massive stoppages in the rifle unless you have their nozzle installed as well.

I have tried installing 4 prowin CNC hop up chambers into 4 GHK AK's. Three of them were a drop in fit and didn't need filing/modifications, one of them had to be filed down at the wings were it slides down the gun. After the filing, it fitted perfectly.

On another note, Ive installed the Hephaetus steel valve knocker on both of my GHK AK's. Ive noticed that on the stock valve knocker, it was all polished and silver, might be due to the wear when the magazine was inserted in the magwell and the blowoff valve hits the bottom of the valve knocker on impact. After installing the Hephaetus valve knocker, it seems to be doing great. The only issue was the burs around the cylinders of the valve knocker (these cylinders move along the curved part of the hammer). The burs I noted causes the valve knocker to raise up (as opposed to being pulled back) when the hammer cocks. As such, the burs around the cylinders need to be filed/removed. After that, it glides freely back and forth in relation with the hammer. Ever Hephaetus valve knocker may have burs in different location around the cylinders, just grind the ones that interfere with the hammer and you're good to go.

Here is the Hephaetus valve knocker:
https://i.imgur.com/IcOc14W.jpg

Here is a picture comparing the stock vs Hephaetus valve knocker:
https://i.imgur.com/yFzF2hg.jpg

Closer picture of the burs causes the valve knocker to be raised up when the hammer cocks:

https://i.imgur.com/cf0n03E.jpg

Going to be trying the Action cylinder floating valves to see if they make a difference. Too bad, I can't figure out how to pull the nozzle apart after removing those two damn pins:

https://i.imgur.com/t6OHET8.jpg

I have a GHK AK105, the samoon guys are just a pleasure to work with in.

Anyways my only problem with the rifle is that the trigger pull feels almost as light as an AEG's trigger pull

It feels disgusting, so much so that I don't use that rifle,

I must have gotten a lemon then; it happens I suppose!


Are you referring to the stock nozzle or PROWIN nozzle?

Stock nozzle... It feels like the two halves are glued together

Yeah there is no way you are getting that apart, I've tried. (Although I welcome being proved wrong).

Does anyone know where to get an NPAS for these rifles? I am running Co2 and I've been told the fps is generally higher. I mistakenly bought the NPAS on WGC thinking it would work but it is for the AKS-74U. :(

No NPAS that I know of, but Samoon has a "1 joule" nozzle (with propane), I would presume that you would get higher but acceptable fps out of it if you installed it and ran it with c02

Thanks Kokanee and Turok_t for the response.
I ended up getting the steel barrel, blowback kit, and the high velocity nozzle.

I do encounter the same problem with Diwasas with the nozzle leg broken off. The stock one that came with the gun broke after couple magazine as well. And the upgraded nozzle broke off , but I didnt realize the legs broke off after shooting about 8 magazines in.Did anyone figured a way to get around this? (sorry if there's already an answer to it, but I am not 100% familiar with parts discussed above.)

thanks,
herb
http://i44.tinypic.com/29ni1jk.jpg

I ended up buying this:

http://fg-airsoft.com/fr/pieces-pour...r-ghk-pdw.html

How does it perform? Would be very interested to hear from someone firsthand about this nozzle.

Can't tell you yet. It is going to ship mid-month.

Latvian291: Is the body made out of the same plastic material?
The item description wasnt clear about which part being polymer or metal.


To update what happened to the nozzle after firing 1 1/2 magazine more on the broken legs nozzle.
http://i44.tinypic.com/2nro3s4.jpg

You're right; the description leaves a lot to be desired.. I will tell you when I get it.

Sweet, looking forward to hear about the test result.

Hi Kokanee,

I am just wondering are you refering to smooth cycle with the PROWIN mag or the GHK mag? I am thinking to get that aluminum nozzle instead of keep buying GHK plastic nozzle.

I was referring to the rifle with no magazine in at all.

I have encountered another problem with the GHK, now its the GHK 74. The Bolt carrier adapter snapped into 2 on the brand new gun after just 1 1/2 mags in!
Wondering if any of you also encountered this problem?
Did I screw the bolt carrier and bolt too tight?

The guns is giving me a lot of headache, I was expecting less problem considering how expensive they are :(
http://i39.tinypic.com/p7mh4.jpg

I'd say that's a freak accident. There's little reason for that part to snap while firing. There's really no stress on it during operation. My guess is it may have been too tight.

I would write samoon to get a replacement

Thanks for the replies fellas :)

I did write Samoon, and the customer service is as nice as always.
They are sending me the replacement adapter, along with a spare nozzle that broke from before.

When I asked them about what caused the problem, I got this as reply
"Due to adapter is fixed with original bolt carrier, which is tight and won't easy to break.
Therefore we guess you change the kit, and the adapter loosen under hard shooting; thus cause the adapter broke.
The purpose of glue is to avoid the part loose again."

I guess I shouldnt lock the adapter and the bolt crazy tight, just tight enough and lock them in place with glue?

You want to get some RED loctite. Then place a small amount in the threads of the adapter and the gas piston. Screw the adapter into the bolt carrier and make it HAND tight. Then screw the past piston into the adapter, also making it hand tight.

The loctite will do the rest. In this case I agree with Samoon, the parts most likely became loose when firing and that means overall they got longer, which means they were no longer within operating tolerances and the parts snapped due to stress they were not designed for. Even an expansion of 2-3mm due to parts loosening on their threads could have caused this.

Why GHK does not loctite these parts from the factory is beyond me, it's one of the first things every new GHK owner should do.

Thanks, Kokanee.

I did lock it extremely tight with pliers and cloth. Thats definetely my mistake there. I ended up using the LePage gel super glue them together on the spare adapter that I have.http://www.lepageproducts.com/UltraGelSuperGlue.aspx
Hopefully that will do the trick since I couldnt find Loctite in the nearby hardware store.

Agreed with you, I dont think they should even make the gas piston into 2 pieces.

Hi, I tried to fix my broken nozzle legs as some member suggested in other forum and here is my results :) Gun seems to be operating fine, hope that it will not broke until the end of this season :)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/large/407/smxj.jpg
http://imageshack.com/scaled/large/16/8qpi.jpg

diwasas:What do you use on that? I tried using the 5 minutes epoxy and it still broke when firing less than 1 magazine. Also, I noticed the nozzle got stuck a lot when I cocked the bolt back with empty magazine. I am not sure whether this contributes to break the nozzle faster. I almost never do any dry firing anymore now.

It is cold weld material. It is like plasticine, knead it in hand till it start to heat and then you can place it on surface, after few hours it can be drilled, grinded, etc... It is like JB Wel just in other material.
Are you trying to glue broken plastic legs, or you have made metal ones? If you are trying to glue broken plactic legs, it will not hold at all and it will broke again after first magazine.


Does anyone has adjustable nozzle for GHK AKM from FG AIRSOFT? I have few questions about it.

Any attempts to JB weld or otherwise cold weld your bolt carrier back together are doomed to failure. The part is cheap enough from Samoon better to just order a new one.

everytime pay $20 to shoot 1 or 2 mags... Sorry but no :) "Home made" metal legs working just fine. As samoon stated, new bolts can be used without legs, it should work fine.

I have it. I haven't installed it yet. Looks like a modified stock nozzle they simply put a screw into. I haven't had time to take a close look yet.

I was thinking about buying metal prowin nozzle and try to make it adjustable with same method as this plastic one.

Is possible to unscrew completely that screw from nozzle? Would be great to get a picture of that screw :)

If only this screw is one thing that adjusts the power, should be easy to make same thing on metal nozzle.

My point was not that you should be paying $20 every time you want to blow off a mag because you keep breaking the bolt, but that something is very wrong with your rifle because you are breaking parts every time you fire it. I would be looking at the functioning of your bolt, doing dry runs and gliding the bolt along the path of travel and see what is responsible for snapping your bolt legs.

Or you can just use a bolt without legs, either way.

I've tried to find a problem, but everything is looking just fine...Nozzle is cycling smoothly inside bolt carrier, everything is always lubed, so I have no idea what is causing this, unless nozzle somehow is reaching a top of feeding ramp and that causes broken legs issue. But I dont know how to properly check that :/

They do say that with the new bolt, it should fire fine even though the legs are broken. The last time I did that, it snapped the bolt into 2. But I assume this was from the older bolt from my 2011 AKMS.

Wondering does any of your gun hit the bolt buffer so hard that it lift the bolt buffer up and chipping it little by little? This is the part I am talking about
http://samoon.com.tw/gun-parts/ghk-a...06-bolt-buffer

I had to stuff some sponge to prevent it from chipping too much.
Fortunately, the buffer itself is very cheap to replace so it's not that much of a biggie.