C7A2 Project
 

So I have started work on a C7A2 Project.

I have decided to break the project into a couple of phases to both help with costs and an easy transition to get all the materials needed to complete the project.

My Goal is to have it look like:
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/c7a2.gif

Phase 1: Get an AEG (TM M4) and Elcan( In my case Real Steel) *** Complete ***
Phase 2: Replace M4 Front End with M16 Front end (Added a SystemA 6.04 Tightbore barrel for increased accuracy *** Completed ***
Phase 3: Paint Stock OD and Replace M16 Pistol Grip with a Gaurder OD Grip. 50% Complete
Phase 4: Get Gaurder Black Casting with out any markings and get C7A2 Engravings done.

So my M4 that I started with is upgraded with a PDI 170% Spring and metal bushings.
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/M4.JPG

Now after Phases 1 and 2 are complete, here is what shes looking like:
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/c7a2-1.JPG
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/c7a2-2.JPG
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/c7a2-3.JPG

Dame thats nice job man

Thanks, but thats only the easy steps, the hard ones are about to come. So much needs to be replaced. I just finished spray painting the stock a couple minutes ago (least the first coat of paint). I will keep this updated.

here is a pic of my on Saturday at the LZ in Ottawa with it. Dont have a proper battery for it yet so I zip tied my AN/PEQ (its for sale) to the C7!
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/med...hefindabus.jpg

Not to get off the fact that your gun is looking good.
I'm just wondering if anyone knows where to get front site rails like on the actual c7 in the pic in the original post?
Any links to the actual part shown or even replica/alike front site rails would be appretiated.

Also once again good work Jackals.
It looks good so far and I can't wait to see the finished project.:)

Awesome job so far man cant wait to see more WIP pics and of course the final result!!! Dont forget about the OD Elcan cover and all the ambidextrous stuff such as cocking handle, mag release, fire selector as well if you want pure authenticity. Also the trades usualy read either C7 or C8, not C7a1 or C7a2 etc.

Something you might like and every one else.

CASR DND 101

I can do you one better than that, here are some higer res pics taken by myself.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/gallery...age.php?i=1137

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/gallery...hp?i=1136&c=10

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/gallery...hp?i=1135&c=10

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/gallery...hp?i=1134&c=10


Enjoy. :)

Dame!!! I Went It!!

The front rails are known as Triads and to my knoweldge there is no civilian model of these yet. So if anyone in the Forces want to steal me one :P. Also, Where can I get a green Eclan Cover?

krylon baby!

wont Krylon crack? Painting ruber = bad?

Arizona Gun Runners

That is one beautifull front end man!..... ;)

I know it is, I just cant seem to remember where i got it ;)

Ok, Here is some new pics for you all

http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/C7A2-4.JPG
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/C7A2-5.JPG

I am not sure why, but the krylon paint is coming darker on the scope and grip then it is on the stock. Anyone have any ideas why?

Ouch man you spraypainted the metal on the Elcan?

Nothing a little paint remover cant fix

Here is one more. I just finished some more painting on the Elcan and Pistol Grip. I also Darkend the stock a bit more. I also cleaned up the metal on the Elcan so it is Black again.
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/C7A2-6.JPG

Good man! Sweet project it looks so sweet already. Elcans come in 3 main pieces for those who didn't know. The mount, the sight tube, and the rubber cover. All these parts are removable so if you want to pain the cover without hitting anything else its possible. info.arizonagunrunners.com is the email for the OD cover guys. Send them an email asking if they still have the OD rubber Elcan covers if the Krylon doesn't work out for you. I checked their site but they removed some stuff so I don't know if they still have them but they might. Good luck man its looking VERY nice!

just wondering what type of battire are u using ? and how u fit it ? a pic will be nice , thanks

Sorry for the lack of updates, but really there isnt anything happening. I am having a battery custom built to fit in the forgrip. Once its complete, I will post a picture of the battery in the gun itself. For now, there is no more picture updates till I get my metal body.

I should have another pic up on Friday.

Also, If anyone has any ideas on how to mount an M203 like we do on the C7 for airsoft, please let me know.

Nice job~~~

Ok here is another update:
First we have the C7A2 now with a Thremomold Mag.
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/C7A2-7.JPG

Secondly, the battery, custom built by total battery.
http://www.airsoftpics.info/data/media/2/C7A2-Bat.JPG

Sorry to bust your bubble mate but the CF hasent used thermold mags in a LONG time. Stick with the metal STANAG mags if you want to be authentic.

Used them on the ranges a few weeks ago.

Haha wow. We were told that they pretty much dont exist in the CF anymore due to the fact that they suck, especially in cold weather. My reg uses nothing but STANAG, same goes with the regs some of my buds are in. I doubt they would be used in deployment tho.

I've even used the FN mags for the c7, now THOSE suck, except for the solid build of course.

Never knew FN made mags for the C7. Im guessing you mean the ones used in the FNC?

yes

it all goes back to the orginal pic in my first post off the Diamaco website which it has a therm. I actually dont use that mag at all anyways, I use star mags :P

painting rubber and painting metal is kinda different. imo. if u had used a primer and primed all three products and then painted it then it woulda been matched a little better.

I personally like the darker green, its a little better for the bush around the Ottawa Area. Thats why the colour is darker. I had thought of using a Tan Primer, but I wanted to go for the darker colour.

What's happening is, some paints don't mix. The parts that were originally painted in your camo pattern, that paint is being disolved by the new Krylon OD, the two are mixing, which will give you a different colour in the end.

Remove the stock and front end. Light sand the stock and body with 320 grit sand paper. Prime the stock and body, then apply Krylon Camo OD to the stock, and Krylon Camo Black to the body and stock tube.

Be sure not to apply the primer and paints too thick, or the fit will be bad and finish will look bulky and detail will be lost.

Good luck.

The stock is fine, as far as the camo painted body, well, thats only there till my new metal body comes in (which I will be painting myself black).

just for anyone else planning on painting their guns... krylon is good and fairly cheap (at least here in toronto). however, if you can get your hands on it, try using montana spray paint. it's thicker and goes on more nicely and evenly than krylon does. montana is mostly used by graffiti artists, so it might be hard for you to find... but if you can find it, it should work better for you (p.s. it's slightly more expensive... around $8 a can, but well worth it in my mind)

You're forgetting the triad mount (which I believe Guarder carries in their "T.R.S." seriesL http://cgi.ebay.com/GUARDER-TRS-Fron...QQcmdZViewItem) and the straight barrel on the C7. US M16s have that groove for their 203s. We use a completely different and horribly complex mounting system.

i started a C7A2 project about a year ago but havn't touched it since. its basically a m16 with metal body, green foregrip and green slither stock and green handgrip. i really don't wanna spray paint the elcan cause thats just stupid. the rest of the parts like the custom cocking handle and stuff probably needs to be custom made.
the krylon paint sucks. even with 2 layers of paint and 2 layers of primer and 2 layers of sealing thing it still comes off..

I've used my gun all season, it has a Krylon Camo painted body, RIS rail covers, stock, and pistol grip without a problem. The only problem I encountered was paint wearing off in the high friction areas of the pistol grip.

Maybe your prep work was not done right? Possibly the primer, the paint, or the sealer is reacting with one another?

is it rubbing off or chipping off.
if its chipping off, you didnt prep the plastic right. sand it lightly, clean it with alcohol, and give it a primer coat first.
A base coat can have many coats, you have 2. Give it 2-4 LIGHT coats. Spray one on, let it tack up(you can touch it, but can still mark it with your nail....this is found using a test peice) and spray it again. A single heavy spray can dry wrong and cause seperation/cracking/flaking.