WE G18C loading nozzle
 

Hey,

Recently purchase a WE g18c, after shooting the first mag the loading nozzle failed to return and gas was shooting onto my hand through the bottom of the slide. I took the gun apart to discover a broken loading nozzle and bent spring. Anyone else have this problem with there WE g18's? Does anyone know of a good solution to replace this nozzle?

thanks

Any TM compatible Glock nozzle and spring. WE Glocks are TM based.

Are you sure? Everything I've read so far says they will not fit. The WE nozzle is smaller then other nozzles.

unless the glocks are specifically different, for the most part WE are 100% clones of TM

I was about to post the same question. I have the same problem.

Not really.

The TM Loading muzzles don't fit the WE muzzle housing. It's too big. You can go WE loading muzzle to TM muzzle housing but not TM nozzle to WE housing....

that nub is breaking either because the loading muzzle spring is not functioning or the plunger under the extractor plate is too long. If it's long enough, the loading muzzle's little nub will slam against that plunger. The force of them two colliding will sever the nub completely depending on if the slide is still recoiling to the rear.

I said it before. And I will repost it again. ..



hope it helps....

Which nozzles would fit in the WE then? Or is it a proprietary part and only a WE would fit.

yep.

I think they recently started making some replacements. There were some that saw on ehobby, though I can't remember who made them. But then again, everyone is starting to carry the stock replacement WE nozzles anyways. It's not that hard to find...

WE glock nozzles are proprietary. Not TM clone at all.

That is correct. WE nozzles are not TM clones, ive tried it many times. So the initial posts above indicating that they are TM clones are incorrect. If you need stock WE nozzles and return springs, Ive got around 20 to 25 of each directly from WE.

Yes....this:) I have modded a TM nozzle to fit but it is not worth the trouble. Stupid WE with their stupidness. Their glocks are the nicest WE's I have ever seen though.

I've got a gen 4 g23 (WE) and the SAME thing happened to me..I've put under a dozen mags into this and the nozzle did the same thing and also bent the return spring as well. Can't find parts either..

Well shit. Sorry guys.

How much word it be to ship to Vancouver?

I may have to meet up with you one day to buy one of them if you don't mind :D

@ E luder. Thanks for clearing things up friend!

I'm going to attempt fitting a modified tm nozzle courtesy of Mr. Baker and will post results (with pics if successful), stay tuned!

http://www.rsov.com/product.php?lang...380&cateId=146

It says "enhanced" but I don't see what is different about it. Will this part also come with a return spring?

At this point I see no point in replacing the nozzle with another stock WE nozzle, it solves no problem and will eventually break again.

well, itll work till it breaks again, isntead of being broken? Kinda like buying KWA pistol hopups...

The spring seat or whatever you want to call it does look a bit beefier compared to mine.. An aluminum one would be really nice though :) doesn't look like the spring comes with..

Man I must be blind, i swear I looked through RSOV...

you can buy as many nozzles as you want. They will keep breakin unless you modify the spring plunger beneath the extractor plate. You need to shorten it on the thinner end, not the thicker end.

This plunger is not present on the G17. That's why the G17 muzzle lasts longer than the G18c's.

I gave you guys the reason ehy this part breaks already in two threads. So based on the cause, you can figure out your own way of modding things to make it function right. Tje solution is what works best for me.

Update..

I tried a nozzle from a TM glock and its significantly different than the WE.. Specifically, I tried one from a glock 18.. From about the 11 o'clock to 1 o clock positions, the TM one was flat whereas the WE one is perfectly round.

Next up, I tried a KJW which is almost identical with the exception of a small nub if you will on the opposite site of the return spring stop. This could easily be filed or ground down.. However.. There is a plunger type dealy with a spring that goes inside the WE nozzle that doesn't fit inside the KJW.. Also, the KJW nozzle seemed to be about 2 mm shorter than the WE which probably wouldn't make too much of a difference. I was thinking of drilling a little out of the KJW To allow for the bigger plunger thing but decided against it..

Back to square one..

I'm going to modify the stock one like eluder mentioned.. Anyone still have the manual with the part number for the nozzle? And return spring if possible..

This gun is starting to make me frustrate..:rocket:

Are you talking about the plunger in the slide that the nozzle return spring rids on.

I would also appreciate some clarification. I don't know what the extractor plate is or what plunger you are talking about.

Thanks

I THINK that's what he means.. Inside the nozzle is a spring, plunger and a piece of some sort to keep it all inside. The plate fastens with a really tiny screw on the side of the nozzle.

Yes.

Its the piece that sits behind the extractor. The piece that you put into the spring before you put the spring back inside. You need to mod the part where the pring attaches to. That end. sand it shorter.

It looks like a detent pin, Jordan. Like the ones found on the hi capa/1911 that locks the thumb saftey to prevent accidental activation

On a stock slide the extractor is molded in. On A PGC set, the extractor is a seperate piece.

The extractor is that little notch beside the ejection port.

Thanks e-luder for all your help.

Here are pictures of whats going on just because I think this thread is fairly important. The market is flooded with these new guns and I couldn't find any help online with the exception of a few youtube videos. WE doesn't seem to care and hasn't released any information.

Here is the loading nozzle everyone seems to have issues with. Breaks fairly easily.
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps994f1cfd.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...psacd711f4.jpg

E-luder, I'm not 100% sure on what part you're talking about so I took some photos. If you (or anyone) would mind labeling or letting me know what these parts are all called it would greatly help me communicate any issues more clearly. I understand the disassembly/reassembly but don't know the correct terms for the parts.


http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps7b5de830.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps8b66eb64.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps7b5ff3b5.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps139e0bf5.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...psb9130936.jpg

Is this the spring and plunger you are referring to?
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps9314433e.jpg

Yes. the last picture is what i am refering to.

The black thing may be too long. So when the slide recoils, the full brunt is absorbed by the nub (the part that breaks) and the plunger (the black piece). Ideally you want to cut it a bit so that the slide wont slam those two together.

The spring needs proper amount of distance to coil before it hits that nub so the force can be dampened.

It's not WE's fault but also some Marui systems have that piece break fairly easily. I assume WE's mould is a bit off spec. Which would explain why theseproblems are so common in WE Glocks... The spring itself is a bit weak so it only exarterbates the priblem furter

That one hell of a bent spring you have there. lol. I would suggest you straighten it out or replace it completely. That spring is the only thing that keeps the nub protected.

Have you done this on your own G18 with any successful results?

I cut the piece down far enough that even with the spring fully compressed the plunger stays covered by the spring
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps32921a8d.jpg

Ohhhh that's what you meant by a plunger, I'm not sure what the correct term for it either but I heard a local gun doc call it a spring guide. Makes sense that being on the longer side, it would break the nub off during fast cycling especially when cold from full auto fire.

Thanks E.

Can you tell I got a WE G18c haha

For all of you who want spare nozzles/plungers and nozzle return springs, PM me. For all those who have already PM'd me, check your inboxes tomorrow.

Yes. My loading nozzles now only break due to the high internal pressure created during the cycle. Yay for good seals and high output blowoff valves. They literally explode!!! But that nub stays unbroken with this mod done....

My only worry is that the spring has a higher chance on crimping with the guide rod so short. Someone online suggested replacing the metal rod with something lighter that won't slam into the nozzle nub.

So your nozzle still breaks regardless?

Even if you go with "Something softer" it will still break. It all depends on how fast your slide can recoil and how stiff that nozzle return spring is. you have to keep in mind that the loading muzzle stays stationary until the spring kicks in. At which time, it actuates the nozzle to return. You can see the action when you charge your gun. Often times, you'll see the muzzle not move in the initial stages of the slide pull. Then as you pull it even further to the rear, the loading muzzle will snap backwards. This is because there is no longer any travel for the nub. That is, the nub has travelled far enough into the BBU rails that it no longer has anywhere else to go while the slide is still charging rearwards.

So if there isn't enough power to spring to resist the recoiling slide, the nub will slam against the the plunger. AND if the plunger is too long, the force of the recoiling slide will shear the nub right off...

Your worry of the spring crimping is valid. However, there are many BBUs that don't accomodate a plunger for that spring and they still stay relatively undamaged during operation. THe Glock 17 for example doesn't have a plunger. Nor do the hi-capa nozzles and they stay uncrimped for a long while (at least in my guns). But in general terms, most GBB pistols crimp that spring regardless of how much caution each operator exercises. It's common. This is why there aftermarket companies that carry replacement loading muzzle springs in their brand line up.

You have to cut it to the right length. As long as you don't cut it too short that the plunger's function becomes non-existent, you're ok. That is, don't cut it too close to the "base" or the fat part where the spring rests against...

All loading muzzles eventually break in any GBB pistol (or even GBBRs). This is just the nature of the loading muzzle. Sometimes they even break in areas that you think is the sturdiest. For example, the loading arm might break or the actual air output part of the muzzle where it is the thickest may crack or even the body of the loading can fall apart under heavy pressure.

On the Glock 18c, the nub is the most common area of breakage because of that plunger....

So judging from my photograph, would you say the guide rod is cut short enough?

Can't say for sure but I wouldn't cut it any shorter unless you break another loading muzzle. I can't really tell you a valid answer to that considering I don't have your gun in front of me. Plus, I need to know how strong the spring is and how your gun cycles to be able to make, at least, some sort of educated guess....

My Advice to you is to observe you how the muzzle is behaving everytime you charge your gun. If you see that the hop up unit is holding unto your loading muzzle a bit, shorten the plunger. If it doesn't then you won't need to since the slide will carry the loading muzzle at all times. But the latter is a clear indication that the spring is usually crimped and not functioning properly....

Ok so a bit of an update. I installed a new loading nozzle (stock WE g18) and replaced the crimped return spring with a fresh one. It seems like with the cut down guide rod the gun is cycling properly without the spring becoming crimped. So far so good. I went to go test fire a few mags to see how the nozzle would hold up but now the gun won't even shoot properly. It is venting all the gas in my mags after one shot, doesn't matter if its one full auto or semi. I have three different magazines, all new no leaks and they all do the same thing. So now I can't even test the guns durability because it won't fire without spewing propane everywhere. Someone help?

Did you put the floating valve back in? Without it inside the nozzle, there's nothing to seal off the gas after each shot.

Shit I completely forgot about the floating valve.. I assumed they came with the new nozzle. That's most likely it thanks a ton.

So I put the floating valve in, but with a mag in the gun it begins to release the gas on the first shot, just now with the valve in it doesn't spew everywhere...

After breaking several myself, I added a TM G17 loading muzzle to an order and got a caliper and checked the differences. There is a 0.2mm difference to the internal diameter so the piston head did not fit. the only other difference is a nub, like the one breaking off. I filed it off and checked the fit without the piston head and it fit well.

I then ordered a full metal replacement set (for a TM g17) and after filing off the extra nub, tried to install it but the new, correct sized piston head but it was too thick and wouldn't allow the nozzle to go back completely.

I then took a razor blade and shaved off some of the rubber on the stock piston head until it moved with minimal friction.

I reassembled the pistol, lubing it up as i went along. I tested the mechanism by putting loading 3 50 round mags and racking the slide and it feeds perfectly. I then put a 25 round mag through it with no issue.

Ii ill be testing it this weekend and will let everyone know how it holds up.

The mod, btw, cost less than a new WE loading nozzle. $16 shipped from Hong Kong.

The filed off nub.
http://www.adambenoit.com/Airsoft/Images/1.jpg

Loading nozzle end view.
http://www.adambenoit.com/Airsoft/Images/2.jpg

Loading nozzle must fit smoothly.
http://www.adambenoit.com/Airsoft/Images/3.jpg

no go
 

So, it works, sort of.

It will fire a mag, maybe 2, then jam. I tear it down and find more rubbing. I file it down, and it fires a mag, then jams.

So it may work if I wanted to spend more time, but I don't. But it doesn't seem worth it at this time.

It seems we will have to wait for a 3rd party solution, hopefully in metal.

Did you ever figure out the solution to this? Because my G18 is currently doing this and I'm completely stumped. The spring is fine, the plunger/spring guide is fine, the floating valve is in place, but it just vents all the gas on the first shot.

Help!