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-   -   DIY leatherwork (holster and such) (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=122858)

Mitchell12 April 21st, 2011 12:49

DIY leatherwork (holster and such)
 
I've recently wanted to make myself a holster, Never leather worked before but I certainly think I have the ability. Anyone else do leather work here?

Here's what I planned on trying.

part 1: YouTube - How To Make a Homemade, Hand Stitched, Custom Leather Glock Holster, Part 1

Part 2: YouTube - How To Make A Homemade, Hand Stitched, Custom Leather Glock Holster, Part 2

part 3: YouTube - How To Make A Homemade, Hand Stitched, Custom Leather Glock Holster, Part 3

part 4: YouTube - How To Make A Homemade, Hand Stitched, Custom Leather Glock Holster, Part 4

Ross April 21st, 2011 13:14

My girlfriend makes leather stuff. She runs her own business on the side. She has made 2 holsters, a sling, and a chest rig for me.
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Tin...78694752173455

When she makes holsters for pistols, she plastic wraps the actual gun, and molds the leather around it. (Instead of making a gun replica from wood.)

her designs are much simpler than this guy's. She doesn't have to stitch as much. Here is her way of making a glock holster. http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=120076

dutchydoc April 21st, 2011 13:32

Stalker, on here (ASC) makes the knives and the sheaths to go with them...if you need any tips, send him a PM.

Mitchell12 April 21st, 2011 13:47

Wow ross! That's a much simpler idea! Please forward my thanks and appreciation towards her! Thanks as well Dutchy, Stalker does some wonderful things himself.

I don't think mine will have such an angle too it however, Also I'll probably use a snap.

I'll try and document it well and put it up here.

CDN_Stalker April 21st, 2011 14:10

Ya, I got into leatherwork last year, wasn't too hard, but planning out is difficult at times and you go through a lot of thin cardboard trying to get it right before moving on to leather.

The videos above, I barely use any of those tools. And don't use a sewing awl, they make crappy stitches. I just use a separate awl to make my holes in the damp leather and a stiff needle with thread to sew by hand (and pliers).

Here's a quote of what advice I posted on the UK Natural Bushcraft forum:

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanadianMike (Post 3429)
You want thick leather, say 3mm-4mm. You'll find it stiff, but when working with it, it really helps to soak in warm water for 30 seconds, it greatly softens it up to the point the leather feels like thin rubber, makes it really easy to work with for folding, wet forming around a knife (you can form it around the handle so the knife clicks into place), and helps the dye to soak in evenly too.

Adjustable groover: Drag it along the edge of where you want to sew, it cuts a small thin groove parallel to the edge, sets the line to follow for sewing, but also lets the top of the stitches sit flush with the top of the leather surface, greatly reduces the risk of the threads becoming damaged from coming into contact with sharp objects, like rocks, etc.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...7-L7srtRMNxEWA

Overstitch wheel: Lays out where the holes will be. I tend to use the 5 holes per inch mostly, but also have 6 and 7 hpi too. Can also use it after sewing to press the threads/lockstitches into the holes (hence the name of overstitch).
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Q4BlG9qnbCVnqY

Awl: Use to punch your holes, also helps to open holes up bigger as you sew.
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...a6qTTN02FBj5Vw

Edging tool: Use to cut a rounded edge on your leather, reduces fraying and looks cleaner when finished.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...TV8F9UX1lQdQfQ

Avoid using the sewing awl, it makes messy stitches, best to go for a simple needle and thread. Use pliers to help get the needle through the holes, and use waxed thread (it locks with friction).
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...QhnsfdRMO7JkXF

Dyes, water based seem to be the easiest to work with, you can mix colours together, say red and dark brown to get a lighter medium brown, and can also thin the dye with water. Really handy. Is what I did on this sheath Christmas day:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4510092_n.jpg


Ross April 21st, 2011 14:10

If you decide to use tinneal's method. Be sure to use vegetan leather. Nothing else will retain it's shape as it dries that well. She buys her materials from Tandy Leather Factory.

Mitchell12 April 21st, 2011 17:36

Now I have to figure out where to get leather too in Fredericton. I also have to get some more clamps I imagine, I've only got one small C clamp.

So stalker, What you recommend is just sewing as if it was cloth? Just having to force it through I guess. Also once the leather is stained, is there any worry about it losing it's shape in rain and water? I know most leather PRODUCTS I've used I don't need to worry about like that but is there an extra step to waterproofing?

CDN_Stalker April 21st, 2011 20:44

I haven't used any clamps so far........... :)

Ya, sew like cloth..... to a point. What I do, once I get the leather cut out, is match up the two sides best i can, use the adjustable groover to give me the parallel line based upon the edge, allowing for a bit excess to be sanded off in the final finishing, then decide which end of the stiching area is best to punch the awl through both pieces same spot. This gives you the starting point on both sides. From there use the overstitch wheel to mark out your hole spots, I mostly use the 5 holes per inch one, and use that to sort out the finish spot. From there I punch the holes with the awl, then start a locking stitch (hook both index fingers, and link together like a chain) with needle and thread, use the awl as I have to to reopen holes to get the needle through, pull the needle through and then pass it back through the same hole, put the tag end through the loop formed and pull tight, then work both ends back and forth tightly to place the lock stitch in the middle of both peices, then move to the next hole. Is hard on the fingers (cuts from thread), but what you end up with, when done right, the holes made with the awl, leather fibers are forced aside, the linked thread is kept in the middle, and when the leather dries, the fibers shrink back to their original position (you won't get that if you use a small drill bit to make holes), literally locking the stitches in place.

Waterproofing, simply use mink oil cream, it sinks in faster and easier without the greasy feeling of the mink oil in the "Dubbin" container, it makes a good top coat.

This is where I go to buy (in person, but they do mail order), all my leather working tools and supplies. Used to be Tandy, but they still have that trade name.

http://www.zelikovitz.com/index.php?...tpage&Itemid=1

I buy remnants there for all my sheath making needs, am going back in a week or two to buy more, PM me if you want me to buy you something in a certain thickness of leather and size, and you can EMT me the cash after, I'll mail to you. Heck, I can supply you with everything you need for tools from there if you have the cash to spend. ;) Plus, I have a member's discount, so I get from 10-30% off items I buy there.

Mitchell12 April 21st, 2011 23:05

Though stalker, How would I form the shapes of the pistol without clamps? I can see it for a sheath but when you want to get the big angles and shapes? Thanks for the link!

Also I wanted to use Vegetan leather like Ross suggested but I'm not really sure what I a looking for. I see it for sale on the site Stalker posted but it all looks like it's in small pieces :S.

I know I'm asking a lot of questions here but I don't want to be spoon fed it just seems like there is a whole bunch of options and everyone has an opinion.

Random Fire April 22nd, 2011 15:24

3 Attachment(s)
Here's my recent project just completed, and I typically use a block form style mold unless the person wants form fit. Vegitan leather is a must and if you want to learn how to do leather work, go to the library, ask people who do it, lots of videos on the web... and start off with a small project. This one cost me $60 dollars for the side of leather of which I could make 2 or 3 more.

Mitchell12 April 22nd, 2011 15:37

Very nice. I'm doing lots of research while I await for my gear to arrive to form to my pistol.

CDN_Stalker April 25th, 2011 11:34

They sell remnants in large sizes, and even the small sizes will provide enough leather for one holster.

I form fit all my sheaths when the leather is wet and I just use my fingers for it, is easy enough, wet leather is like innertube rubber. You can also use something hard and rounded, like a Zippo lighter or other, just be careful because wet leather marks really easily, your fingernail will leave a permanent mark for instance (trim nails first).

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...4_178032_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4281143_n.jpg

Mitchell12 April 25th, 2011 11:44

Very Nice handy work, I think I might try making a sheath before I try a holster.

CDN_Stalker April 25th, 2011 22:26

Thanks, and good idea. Heck, make a pouch if you feel like it. The more you make, the better you get, so choose something easy to start with before you tackle something you actually care about. Aka, try a pouch first, then a sheath, then the holster. That way your holster will turn out the best of the bunch.


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