Quote:
Originally Posted by Cushak
I hope it's not crap; I just ordered one.
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It's not "crap", but there are some minor workarounds that you'll have to deal with that were fixed when the 8mm version was released. Hence, the cheap price that I let the 7mm go for.
Issues that I've noted in the past through various threads:
1. Sub-par build quality plus non-standard dimensions of the piston (which is why I included a modified version of the Prometheus piston)
2. The cylinder head requires either:
a) a front-shim to push it back
b) a locking rolling pin to hold it in place (the instruction include details on this, and a hole is already drilled through the gearbox to accomodate this. You just need to locate a pin that was never included in the kit.)
Failure to lock the cylinder head back in place can and will result in either a damaged tappet plate, or (more likely), a damaged piston and possibly damaged sector gear.
If the cylinder head is located properly, then you should actually be able to run the PGC piston no problem for many many rounds. Mine broke because I failed to notice the proper location of the cylinder head on initial installation. I initially blamed the PGC piston, but when I noticed strange grinding noises and abnormal grinding marks on the first tooth of the Prometheus piston, I inspected further and realized that the cylinder head was sitting too far forward, causing the piston to also sit too far forward.
The result is that the sector gear was engaging the piston teeth incorrectly, causing the issues. The pressure on the PGC piston caused it to snap.
As far as I know, this cylinder head issue is still not fully resolved in the 8mm version, but the piston dimension issue has been.
Again, as has been mentioned many many times, this gearbox is NOT for the faint of heart and only recommended by people familiar with upgrades, modifications, diagnosing and troubleshooting.
Beyond that, I don't see what's so "crap" about the 7mm version. I never saw anything that ever made me regret getting the gearbox. Consider that you're dealing with the first generation of the next evolution of the standard AEG gearbox. Perhaps you could enlighten us, kashimaa?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo
To change the spring you need to take your stock off and the front&rear body pin, it take about 15min to do the first time.
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If installed according to the instructions that come with the PGC gearbox, you shouldn't need to take off your rear stock at all - just like real steel or a Systema PTW, the bolt to attach the stock would go from the inside-out rather than outside-in and secured by a nut. It's a bit of a pain if you ever have to take your stock off, but if you don't, it'll save TONS of headaches for field-stripping the gun. If you watch the videos that come on the installation disc, you'll see them completely strip the upper off, swap the spring and reinstall everything together again without ever having to take off the stock. A spring swap can be performed in about 30 seconds. Ultimately, you don't *HAVE* to do it this way, but if you want full access to the quick-swap feature, this is definitely the way to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashimaa
you SPR looks great! and with its internals it is realy realy highend, nice job!
1 nice, so most of the common gb v2 internals should fit.
2 you are right and i meant those gears, just too lazy to search for the correct productname ^^
3 so half theet will fit, thx!
4 i could not believe the heli-only but damn, you are right ...
5 mosfet rocks, i know but thx
6 same with systema magnum motor
7 sry, missunderstanding, but you finaly answered my question and gave me an new one, too hehe: wich nozzle do you prefer for this setup and the prowin box?:
deepfire cylinder type 0
deepfire pistonhead (alu)
deepfire cylinderhead
(all bore up)
8 thats exactly what i meant  so, good news for my plan, thx.
i think i will give that gb a try, or 2 .. or10 hrhr.
@ Skruface, you are right, thx
@ cushak, maybe ist was just a crappy info ;p i realy dont know, i read that anywhere. you got my best wishes 
@ voodoo also thx for your support! i think i am not the only one who want those pics
your all great, you answered more than i questioned  |
There's nothing wrong with helical gears - if you're working with gears of a torque level of this caliber, you'd BETTER know how to shim, because if you don't, that's actually the least of your worries. You might as well forget about getting a Pro-Win gearbox if you're worried about such a minor issue as shimming.
When installed correctly, helical gears perform better than flat gears.
I'm not too familiar with Deep Fire products, but I tend to recommend the same brand of air nozzle as the cylinder head you buy. So if you get a Systema cylinder head, get a systema air seal nozzle, if you get a guarder cylinder head, get a guarder air nozzle, and if you get a Deep Fire cylinder head, get a Deep Fire air seal nozzle. Simple as that. There isn't much difference between the brands, but there are minor fitments differences between the brands due to outer diameters of the cylinder nozzle base and the inner diameter of the air seal nozzle itself.
If you look around on the net, there is a site or two that has posted the pictures that were included with the gearbox. Unfortunately, I just shipped out the gearbox that I had in stock, so I no longer have the images on that disc anymore. There was a website I found that was based in France that had a very detailed and technical thread on the gearbox and had all of the images posted up from the installation disc.