Looking for advice on PSG-1

[selimsrm]

I'm going to be buying a PSG-1 next week and I'd like some input from people who have worked with them before.

The gun is completely stock aside from a spring putting in the 400fps w/.20 range. It's in need of a new piston and from what I can tell it uses the same piston the CA/G&P SR-25 uses with 18 teeth only with half teeth due to the gear design.

I'm looking to get it firing in the 480-500fps w/.20 range. Will the stock gears and motor be capable of reliably pulling this weight spring?

What size spring would be necessary, does a standard AEG spring work?
If a gear manages to strip would an SR25 sector gear work?

Just some things I'm wondering.

[peacekeeper]

As cool as a psg1 is , there total garbage . the gearboxes are prone to failure and they dont use a standard gearbox - the replacement parts can be hard to source . wouldnt recommend one

[vondnik]

PSG1 uses PSG-1 parts for all that I know... They are mantenance heavy beasts that requier frequent maintenance and tinkering to keep running ok. They are money pits to get on par with a well balanced std aeg or bolt action rifle. I've worked on 2 and they where both total pain to get working properly....

[Kos-Mos]

I have owned one.

Don't buy it.

If you really like the look like me, you can replicate it with a G3 SG-1 base and a conversion kit.

First of all, battery space is ridiculous. I completely butchered the insides of the stock to fit a very large 12v battery (10x1.2v, 5000mAh).

Second, the pre-cock system is flawed. In theory, it is a good idea. But in practice, you will find that you need an insane battery to get it going. Plus you get about half the shots that you can get with the same battery in a regular AEG. And sometimes the gun will act weird, like one that have a broken cut-off lever. The gun will pre-cock and fire. Then the next shot it will pre-cock only. Then fire, pre-cock and fire.

The moving bolt is a nice feature, but other than letting everyone where you are, it is not usefull.

The stock body is so flexible that it is almost impossible to keep a good zero on your scope. On mine I removed the stock PSG-1 scope that is garbage and installed a G3 low profile rail mount with a decent scope. The body flex at the mount base and at the fore grip/body joint was so large that I avoided to leave it resting vertical on the stock. The weight of the barrel is too much for it.

It is FRAKING heavy. Heavier than my MG36, and that one is not on the light side.

Parts for replacement or upgrades are nonexistent or insanely priced. That is when you finally manage to get to the mechbox, which require you to remove the barrel group, motor grip and slide/open the receiver even before being able to simply look at the mechbox. The box it self is also a pain. It is an hybrid modular mechbox. The top and bottom parts are held in place with two cross-pins, the lower receiver and the upper receiver. To remove the pins, you have to remove the motor grip and the lower receiver. Good luck routing the wires back in after.

So again, if you like the look of the gun, get a metal-bodied G3 SG-1 and build it from there. Aside from the fire selector, there won't be anything different in the final converted gun.

[selimsrm]

Originally Posted by Kos-Mos

I have owned one.

Don't buy it.

If you really like the look like me, you can replicate it with a G3 SG-1 base and a conversion kit.

A G3 and a conversion kit would be a more expensive route. (and more time consuming given the availability of the TM G3 SG1)

First of all, battery space is ridiculous. I completely butchered the insides of the stock to fit a very large 12v battery (10x1.2v, 5000mAh).

I plan to use a 7.4 li-po (11.1 if needed)

Second, the pre-cock system is flawed. In theory, it is a good idea. But in practice, you will find that you need an insane battery to get it going. Plus you get about half the shots that you can get with the same battery in a regular AEG. And sometimes the gun will act weird, like one that have a broken cut-off lever. The gun will pre-cock and fire. Then the next shot it will pre-cock only. Then fire, pre-cock and fire.

The moving bolt is a nice feature, but other than letting everyone where you are, it is not usefull.

agreed the blowback is just another thing that can break

The stock body is so flexible that it is almost impossible to keep a good zero on your scope. On mine I removed the stock PSG-1 scope that is garbage and installed a G3 low profile rail mount with a decent scope. The body flex at the mount base and at the fore grip/body joint was so large that I avoided to leave it resting vertical on the stock. The weight of the barrel is too much for it.

I didn't notice any flexing or wobbling of the body.

It is FRAKING heavy. Heavier than my MG36, and that one is not on the light side.

It's a lot lighter than my G36/AG36 and my SR25 (heck it's lighter than my m500)

Parts for replacement or upgrades are nonexistent or insanely priced. That is when you finally manage to get to the mechbox, which require you to remove the barrel group, motor grip and slide/open the receiver even before being able to simply look at the mechbox. The box it self is also a pain. It is an hybrid modular mechbox. The top and bottom parts are held in place with two cross-pins, the lower receiver and the upper receiver. To remove the pins, you have to remove the motor grip and the lower receiver. Good luck routing the wires back in after.

Handgrip, two ping for the stock, and a screw in the magwell. Can get to it and 5 mins.

So again, if you like the look of the gun, get a metal-bodied G3 SG-1 and build it from there. Aside from the fire selector, there won't be anything different in the final converted gun.

I've thought of that but the cost would be more than I'd like. Yes, fixing it would be much easier to get parts for.

I am picking one up. just looking if anyone is familiar with parts compatibility.

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by selimsrm

A G3 and a conversion kit would be a more expensive route. (and more time consuming given the availability of the TM G3 SG1)



I plan to use a 7.4 li-po (11.1 if needed)

agreed the blowback is just another thing that can break



I didn't notice any flexing or wobbling of the body.



It's a lot lighter than my G36/AG36 and my SR25 (heck it's lighter than my m500)


Handgrip, two ping for the stock, and a screw in the magwell. Can get to it and 5 mins.

I've thought of that but the cost would be more than I'd like. Yes, fixing it would be much easier to get parts for.

I am picking one up. just looking if anyone is familiar with parts compatibility.

A 11.1v LiPo that fits in the battery space will never be able to drive that gun. You might be able to cram a 2000-2300mAh 11.1v 20C in there. You would need at least a 4000mAh 11.1v 25C to do the job. That takes the space of a large battery.

For your question, replacement parts are nonexistent. There are some kits and what not that are on the HK websites. All out of stock for SOO long. I tried to do something with mine... selling it was a better option.

The G3 won't cost you that much. You can start with either an MC51 or SAR and build it up from there. In the end, if you start with a metal bodied rifle, you will arrive at about the same price for the complete, reliable and precise gun vs trying to upgrade the PSG-1. The body flex will appear after 10-20 mags if you field it. I was babying mine and it started to creak like crazy. The previous owner removed it from the box twice to take pictures of it.

It takes a V4 mechbox.
It takes mid length motors (Not the short like G36s, not the long like M4s).
It takes V4 gears (V7/M14 gears might work, I would have to check).
It takes special springs.
It takes special cylinder.
It takes special piston.
It takes special cylinder head.
It takes special tappet plate setup (because of the pre-cock/bolt bocking).
It takes a special trigger contact set, though I thing that you can modify a V2 trigger set to fit.
It takes a special scope. If you want to install a rail mount, you have to cut two screw moldings in the upper receiver.
It takes longer (and more expensive) inner-barrel, though the stock TM one is supposed to be 6.05.

Now, please tell me how it can be more cost effective to fully upgrade a PSG-1 with all proprietary parts that are hard to find, thus more expensive vs a V2 based gun that is VERY common (if you think the G3 is rare, you are not looking).

[doc_pathfinders]

i'm sorry but i have owned a fully upgraded PSG1 (had a full FTK put in it including the mosfet) and it easily ran on a 11.1 lipoly, no idea what you're on about.

mine was also firing at 550 fps with a .20.. so as i said.. i know.

IF parts die on this gun it will be costly however, no doubt.

IF you manage to grab the systema FTK you'll be gold for a long while, just take it to a great gundoc to have it fitted (it will need some careful fitting, trust me) but if you use a mosfet (in the FTK or another) then you'll save the contacts and have a much better trigger response.

[selimsrm]

My boss found some Guarder pistons for psg-1 cheap so I have two on the way. I'm going to leave it shooting where it is (400 fps) until I get a little extra cash and order a 400% systema FTK.

[doc_pathfinders]

best to grab a 300% spring and use that in the 400% ftk (which if i'm correct comes with high-torque motor and mosfet) don't even think of putting it in without a mosfet or you'll kill the selector plate quickly.

and make sure to watch every guide on shimming you can and open the gun up after 10 and 100 shots (easy with the split style gearbox that the PSG1 has, no need to open the piston/upper gearbox unit) to check for excessive wear.

no reason why you can't have a PSG1 shooting the way you want with some careful care

[wildcard]

My PSG1 Set up is basicly swapped the lower, upgrade the whole body with a CA SG1/G3 metal body that way you can fit a standard V2 box and upgrade the inner barrel.

With the vast choice in V2 upgrade the sky is the limit and if you are creative you can actually have a PSG1 Hydra and a MSG 90 with all the left over/combined parts

[doc_pathfinders]

but then he looses the semi-auto only and the robust nature of the gearbox..

i have a systema gearbox that has an m170 in but i know for a fact that this isn't shooting as nicely as my old PSG1 with a 300% spring..

plus durability..

IF you remove all the stock internals with an FTK (and fit it well, the key) then you shouldn't have reliability troubles (unless you really like spamming the trigger and run 500 round mags!)

it's also something special, i actually wish i could buy my old gun back but the owner isn't having it

[wildcard]

Your stock Systema M170 box need a few fine tuning before you can have optimum performance for example, when I was still actively using the PSG I swapped the barrel to extended PDI barrel 680mm that will put the inner barrel a cunt hair below teh barrel opening of teh PSG1 then I swap the cylinder to a bore up and swap the hopup to a Systema metal V2 enlarge the V2 nozzle abit and voila consistent 480fps with .25 with a PDI 280% spring in addition you will need a barrel spacers and also a thing they called Block spacers for G3 (I highly doubt they sell this anymore).
At the time there were three of us with these customize set up, Myself, Wil from SD-unit and Gary my ex teammate from Hotshots, we can easily outrange any modified AEG at the time

[selimsrm]

Originally Posted by doc_pathfinders

best to grab a 300% spring and use that in the 400% ftk

That's what I was thinking since a 300% spring should be plenty of power.

[Snipezilla]

I have had my psg1 for 7 years with a 300% spring in it the whole time. I got mine completely stock and did all the work myself. For me the gearbox is very simple. I even custom made most of the parts inside by hand out of stainless steel. So the gearbox being difficult to work on is a myth that got started years ago.
(for the non belivers I have pics of my gear box.)

The part about finding parts is true. That's why I made so many of mine.

The 11.1 lipo will pull a 400% spring no problem and fits in the stock with no modifications.

There are two thing I recomend. Frist get a pdi chamber block. It was the best investment I ever made for that gun. Two words. Rock solid! You will have to modify your body though.
Second, get a metal tapet plate. The upgraded gears will chew threw those plastic ones in like 250 shots.