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June 3rd, 2011, 02:07 | #1 |
CA SLR 105 Problems
I have a SLR 105 Steel version I've recently bought and I am having problems with it. It originally just stopped firing all together with a fully charged battery and had intermittent problems just stopping/starting. Only full auto would often work for a bit then stop. I tried it again later and it started working. (It also chronied in at 387, when it was tested a few days earlier by someone else and was at 415) A few shots later it made a terrible noise, that I won't be able to describe. A screech/grind. I stopped using it that day.
I've checked out the gearbox which seems lubricated enough (Not tons of goo everywhere) and everything checks out. I've reshimmed it also, the shimming job seemed pretty good to start with though. I would still get the intermittent not firing problem. After a even closer inspection I found that on the the motor contact tabs was coming off/was off. I soldered it back on. I also found one of the electrical wiring/tabs going to the trigger system was almost off. I resoldered that aswell. Because the problem seemed electrical I also cleaned off the actual trigger contacts with isoprobyl alcohol. After this the motor alone would work %100 when out of the gearbox and now even when its all together. It still makes alot of noise and whines more than I would expect from it. Also it actually seems to have a bit of kick. The closest thing I have is my VFC AKS-74UN which shoots 351.4FPS very consistently. Its also alot quieter, with no almost no feedback/kick. I opened it up again and the one thing I see is that the piston does have some wear which could be causing the noise. I can very small indents where the sector gear is pulling on the piston. That is on about 3 teeth on the piston. (Classic CA 'Yellow' piston, no piston material elsewhere in the gearbox though.) My guess is it seems to be either the piston or possibly motor height. I tried adjusting the height of the motor and cannot figure it out. I originally thought the screw head snapped off, then that it was a hex screw and is just in the threads. There is a 'screw' in the threads, but it does not seem to be a hex screw or anything. I have no clue what to think. It definitely doesn't look snapped off either. My other (Older and stock) SLR 105 has the same thing. I will be replacing the piston in the future, but would like to get this figured out as soon as possible. How do I adjust the motor height on a CA SLR 105? Also what do you think the problem may be? Any suggestions? Thanks! |
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June 3rd, 2011, 02:13 | #2 |
Motor height on a CA SLR 105 I'm pretty sure it's a metric hex key on the motor cage where you would strew the pistol grip screw. I did it on my CA SLR 105u.
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June 3rd, 2011, 02:46 | #3 |
The way it's acting makes me think there's a dead spot in the motor...
What BB's and chrono did you chrono it with? How did you shim it? Did you think the shimming that was in it was too lose because there was a little bit of play in the gears? Last edited by Amos; June 3rd, 2011 at 02:49.. |
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June 3rd, 2011, 02:52 | #4 |
I've checked in the motor cage, but it appears that its flat and smooth, not a hex screw. I tried 2 or 3 different metric hex keys to no avail. I may be crazy so I will check again later tonight or tomorrow.
Oh and I used someone elses .2 Bio Bastard BBs I believe. I'm not sure what kind of chrono it was. It was one used to chrono at Claybank. No some had fallen off while opening the gearbox initially. When I put them back on it may have been in the wrong spots because it was very tight. Gears would not turn by hand when I put the shell back on to test. I spent a good while checking out the alignment and spacing and found a sweet spot where the gears move more freely when testing and keep their place very well. Last edited by Fiya; June 3rd, 2011 at 02:57.. |
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June 3rd, 2011, 02:57 | #5 |
Ok!
There's no .20 ECO Bastards, so you would have chrono'd with .25. 387 with .25 is 433 FPS. The chronos at Claybank were also very messed up because when people hit the sides, the people operating them did not clean the BB shavings off of the sensor gates. There were some stock TM guns that where chronoing over 500 one shot, then 290 the next lol Try a 2.5mm allen key.. If I'm correct, that's the one that should adjust it. The gear noise could very easily be your re-shimming. I checked and corrected the shimming when I got it from the guy you got it from. It was fine when it left. |
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June 3rd, 2011, 03:03 | #6 | |
Quote:
Sorry I wish I remember what the BBs were. I believe it were Gishs BBs. I do not remember what they were using to chrono. I was told that they were .20s though. I'll check the shimming/try again. I bet your shimming job was great, its just that I couldn't tell exactly where it came from apparently. EDIT: YES! It was a 2.0 mm hex key. There was some gunk in the bottom and I had to scrape it out before I could turn. Now it sounds worlds better. Thanks everyone! I'm going to do some more testing tomorrow to be sure, but it looks all good now! Last edited by Fiya; June 5th, 2011 at 22:06.. |
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June 5th, 2011, 22:10 | #7 |
Sorry for the double post, but it turns out that last part of the noise/kick that the motor has is from the gears. It looks like the sector gear is a G&P and the spur gear is Classic army, not sure which the bevel gear is. It still feels like it kicks from the grip too much. It sounds very weird when feeding aswell, but I wont have time to test properly until Tuesday
Would this be causing still higher sound and motor kick? |
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