WE 1911 spring guide

[rjmartin19]

Does anybody know if I replace the spring in my gun if i should also use the longer spring guide or if the stock one will work ok with the new spring? Thanks

[Drake]

You can replace the spring and keep the stock spring guide, no problem.

[rjmartin19]

thanks!

[Drake]

FYI, I'm using both a Guarder 150% spring set and an Action 160% spring set (two 1911s) intended for the Marui 1911. In an older 1911 I used the hammer spring, but in my newer MEU, I found the stock hammer spring (redesigned, longer and stiffer) to be better suited than the "upgraded" ones.

The Action 160% is actually shorter than the stock spring, but quite stiff, and I'm quite pleased with its performance.

[Mega_man_08]

Sorry i have a WE MEU 1911 aswell my question is with the recoil spring rod can you replace that rod with a longer one. and do you guys ever have a problem with the back of your slide jamming against the hammer every 30 shots or so. sorry for jacking your thread Rjmartin19

[Drake]

If you replace the recoil spring rod with a long one, you also need to change the front bushing to accommodate it. Bleaches did a big conversion (very masterfully) of his WE 1911, including a long spring guide: look up his thread for more info, including which parts to get.

The slide jamming on the hammer... offhand, my first guess is the sear isn't catching/slipping every often.

[Mega_man_08]

thanks dude you guys are so helpful

[rjmartin19]

I have another question. I did a search and couldnt find a simple answer. Why do people replace the recoil spring? I have a stock socom gear wilson combat cqb elite. Should i replace the recoil spring? What benefit would it have? Thanks in advance for anybody who can answer my Noobish question.

[m102404]

I can't speak specifically to the Socom Gear Wilson model...but here's my take on spring guides in general...

A stiffer/stronger recoil spring will do two things:
1. It will provide more resistance for the rearward movement of the slide. Good thing...since the slide/frame takes a lot of abuse when shooting with green gas (propane). CO2/Red gas are even worse. So it's good for damage prevention.

2. It will speed up the forward movement of the slide, returning it to battery faster than a stock spring. This allows for a faster shot-to-shot time and "seems" to keep the muzzle flip down for a faster sight picture. That's good. But, if you're running a steel barrel and aluminum slide (or worse monkey metal slide) then the addition "return to battery" forces puts a lot of strain on the lug/bearing surfaces between the slide/barrel. Search for Hicapa slide damage to find more on it and pics of what areas are affected.

Watch out for the extremes though...using a light stock spring with propane results in accelerated slide/frame wear. Using a realy stiff spring results in accelerated barrel/slide wear (really just in the slide, but it's from the barrel).

So far as the slide catching on the hammer...if it's the tip of the surface that "strikes" the slide, a simple reprofiling of the edge works well.

Do the following to test:
Fully rack the slide and hold it back. Look closely at where the hammer touches the innards of the slide (it'll be somewhere on the piston/nozzle body). Slowly let the slide forward (while holding onto it, creep it forward). You'll see the hammer ride along the nozzle body and get to the rear of the blow back unit. There's usually a bump on that part of the blow back unit. If you're going real slow and gently let go...the slide might even stick there, essentially the tip of the hammer jams. On some 1911/2011....it works like butter...on others it'll hang badly.

If so...take a very close look at where it catches...and take a fine file or 600grit stone to alter the profile of the hammer. Not much...just enough to let that bump slip over the tip of the hammer smoothly.

A stronger spring "powers" through that hang up. If it doesn't, you've got other issues (like your main spring is too stiff or running out of compression room).