FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[pusangani]

I've got one of these en route and I was wondering if anyone had any experience using a longer inner covered by a suppressor on their capas and if so did you have any problems with it?

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=36545

[ILLusion]

I've tried it a few times, and had cycling problems with tilting barrel designs if the silencer/tracer was too heavy/long. On the few occasions where it did not have cycling problems, there was a noticeable increase in wear of the chamber cover against the underside of the slide.

[pusangani]

Right, I've had that problem before when using a tracer as those are much heavier, never did it with a normal suppressor

[TheDuShen]

The very small pin (H51 - 60) (on a TM Hi-Capa 5.1) to hold the Trigger and the Trigger ring together - what do you use as a replacement to the original one?

I've got another question,



How do you keep the circled piece stuck in there? I tried hammering it in but as hard as I hammer it, it doesnt seem to stay in place.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TheDuShen

The very small pin (H51 - 60) (on a TM Hi-Capa 5.1) to hold the Trigger and the Trigger ring together - what do you use as a replacement to the original one?

Either another OEM one, or an aftermarket pin. Many aftermarket triggers and stirrups come with them. ILLusion Kinetics triggers used to come with them, but not anymore. I have OEM replacements available, if you need.

Originally Posted by TheDuShen

I've got another question,



How do you keep the circled piece stuck in there? I tried hammering it in but as hard as I hammer it, it doesnt seem to stay in place.

It should friction fit in place, but on rare occasion, the hole is machined a tiny bit too small or too large by just a fraction of a millimeter, causing it to not be able to take the pin nor hold it in place.

If it's a loose fit you're having, you can try crushing that part of the pin just slightly to cause it to deform ever so slightly. It should hold in place then. Just don't deform it too much, or it will be difficult to go in.

Alternatively, you could just not use the pin - its purpose is to allow for the half-cock safety feature. Many users don't use that pin at all so that they can manually decock the hammer. Just make sure you don't decock with the magazine inserted, or you may find a metal slide slamming in to your thumb at full blowback speed.

[Gottjr]

I am trying to max out the performance for cqb airsoft play and I am not sure what to do with the slide. I run green gas only and want to have the fastest action possible. Can I achieve that with a metal slide or should I stick with a plastic one? So far I put in a Pdi tbb, as bbu and switched to a as grip. Thx

[Styrak]

Stick with the plastic one. A metal one will only decrease snappyness and use more gas.

[Gottjr]

Thanks. Would as shock buffers be a good option to decrease the cycle time if my goal was to increase my rof?

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by Gottjr

Thanks. Would as shock buffers be a good option to decrease the cycle time if my goal was to increase my rof?

If you don't want to have the slide lock back, yes, be careful with adding too many buffers as you can have misfires (gun shoots, blows back, but doesn't load the next round) if you short stroke the gun too far.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Gottjr

I am trying to max out the performance for cqb airsoft play and I am not sure what to do with the slide. I run green gas only and want to have the fastest action possible. Can I achieve that with a metal slide or should I stick with a plastic one? So far I put in a Pdi tbb, as bbu and switched to a as grip. Thx

http://airsoftcanada.com/showpost.ph...74&postcount=3


See "Cycling Speed".

If you want the fastest possible, then stick with the plastic slide, as even the most light weight metal slide still won't be as light as a swiss cheesed plastic slide. However, the latter will never be as durable as metal.

Consider increasing power for rearward motion as well (high flow valves), active rebound springs for slide rebound, and heavier recoil springs.

Also, consider a lighter blowback unit, such as the Nine Ball Feather Weight.

Polishing the rails will also reduce friction for smoother/faster movement, but can produce a wobbly assembly if done too aggressively.

Finally, the grease you use (and the amount you slather on) will also affect slide movement speed and resistance.

[Gottjr]

Thanks! I am having a hard time finding the AS shock buffers. Do you happen to carry them in stock?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Gottjr

Thanks! I am having a hard time finding the AS shock buffers. Do you happen to carry them in stock?

I do. PM me. And please fill out your profile information to show your location.

[Gottjr]

Will do......thx!

[anthon]

Illusion, what are the best brand inner-barrels for my TM MEU and my Match Custom

Also, is there any "common" parts that tend to break in these guns

[TaroBear]

Originally Posted by anthon

Illusion, what are the best brand inner-barrels for my TM MEU and my Match Custom

Also, is there any "common" parts that tend to break in these guns

The right side (side you won't use unless you're left handed) safety seems to get wobbly on 1911 models, although the part isn't necessarily "broken".