WE AK-74U - was good, now bad

[Rommen]

I agree the wood grip looks terrible (get a bakelite one), but other than that I like the look its got

[N_Force]

i don't care it looks realistic or not as long as I like this terrible look. Cause it is AS, it's toy, personal toy collection. Haha. lol...

Originally Posted by Latvian291

ohh I like the polished bolt-nice!

AK-74Us never had wooden grips, polished bolts, and used 74 mags not 47 mags. Did you try to make it look unrealistic on purpose?[/QUOTE]

[jamex]

Anyone else notice some wobble on the recoil spring assembly? Where the spring guide meets the bolt cover release? It has a bit of "give" which causes the spring guide to buckle upwards a bit and prevents smooth gliding of the cover release. I've watched a few videos of reviews and noticed the same thing where they had to push down where the spring guide meets the release and it pops right into place.

Not sure if its effecting the bolt travel much, as its only a very slight incline upwards, but I'm thinking of shimming it on one side as it can impact the release's return, and thus the cover locking ability until its moved into place again.

[ViR]

Originally Posted by jamex

Anyone else notice some wobble on the recoil spring assembly? Where the spring guide meets the bolt cover release? It has a bit of "give" which causes the spring guide to buckle upwards a bit and prevents smooth gliding of the cover release. I've watched a few videos of reviews and noticed the same thing where they had to push down where the spring guide meets the release and it pops right into place.

Not sure if its effecting the bolt travel much, as its only a very slight incline upwards, but I'm thinking of shimming it on one side as it can impact the release's return, and thus the cover locking ability until its moved into place again.

Yes, seems like a design flaw.. I cant even push the button in place, have to cock the gun for it to lock bolt cover..

[N_Force]

• yes, that is a problem. I've found out that when the bolt travelling back close to the end and I can see the returning spring is tilting up and down a bit, and the top cover can't be closed easily, have to push it and force it to close. I didn't like it and it's not parallel with the bolt, that could create higher impact and get more wear on the bolt too. even when I shoot in auto, almost every 5 shots and having one to two weak shots, so strange. then I shim a small piece of paper and hold it in place(tilt down a bit), everything are working perfectly......spring rod parallel with the bolt and moving freely, cover is closed easily, full auto is so smooth now.
  
  
  
  

Originally Posted by jamex

Anyone else notice some wobble on the recoil spring assembly? Where the spring guide meets the bolt cover release? It has a bit of "give" which causes the spring guide to buckle upwards a bit and prevents smooth gliding of the cover release. I've watched a few videos of reviews and noticed the same thing where they had to push down where the spring guide meets the release and it pops right into place.

Not sure if its effecting the bolt travel much, as its only a very slight incline upwards, but I'm thinking of shimming it on one side as it can impact the release's return, and thus the cover locking ability until its moved into place again.

[jamex]

Originally Posted by N_Force

• yes, that is a problem. I've found out that when the bolt travelling back close to the end and I can see the returning spring is tilting up and down a bit, and the top cover can't be closed easily, have to push it and force it to close. I didn't like it and it's not parallel with the bolt, that could create higher impact and get more wear on the bolt too. even when I shoot in auto, almost every 5 shots and having one to two weak shots, so strange. then I shim a small piece of paper and hold it in place(tilt down a bit), everything are working perfectly......spring rod parallel with the bolt and moving freely, cover is closed easily, full auto is so smooth now.

So you shim the paper in between the spring rod and the latch like I was thinking? Or did you put it somewhere else? See below (borrowed pic from Rommen)

[N_Force]

Originally Posted by jamex

So you shim the paper in between the spring rod and the latch like I was thinking? Or did you put it somewhere else? See below (borrowed pic from Rommen)

l shim it below. As long as it straight when the bolt travelling back.

[BlackBerry]

Hey guys, how much of the nozzle did you all shave off when installing the NPAS?

I shaved off as much as I removed when I cut the two tabs off, but for some reason I can't get it to shoot under 350 with .25's.

It's constantly hitting an average of about 370fps with closed up NPAS and average 400fps with slightly opened up NPAS.

[N_Force]

I haven't tried to install it yet but this may help you to understand how it works and adjust your modify.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=I93HqminCF0
Look for : ra tech how the npas works

Originally Posted by BlackBerry

Hey guys, how much of the nozzle did you all shave off when installing the NPAS?

I shaved off as much as I removed when I cut the two tabs off, but for some reason I can't get it to shoot under 350 with .25's.

It's constantly hitting an average of about 370fps with closed up NPAS and average 400fps with slightly opened up NPAS.

[TPM001]

Originally Posted by BlackBerry

Hey guys, how much of the nozzle did you all shave off when installing the NPAS?

I shaved off as much as I removed when I cut the two tabs off, but for some reason I can't get it to shoot under 350 with .25's.

It's constantly hitting an average of about 370fps with closed up NPAS and average 400fps with slightly opened up NPAS.

It should be the opposite. You should actually get lower FPS as the NPAS is opened up (i.e. made longer). It sounds like your nozzle was modded properly (can you provide a pic?). I can't imagine not being able to get below 370 with the NPAS in its maximum opened position (max length) because most of the gas flow would be diverted. Are you sure you turned it all the way? Some of my NPAS units are stiff to turn so sometimes you have to adjust with a bit of force (and lubrication).

[BlackBerry]

Originally Posted by TPM001

It should be the opposite. You should actually get lower FPS as the NPAS is opened up (i.e. made longer). It sounds like your nozzle was modded properly (can you provide a pic?). I can't imagine not being able to get below 370 with the NPAS in its maximum opened position (max length) because most of the gas flow would be diverted. Are you sure you turned it all the way? Some of my NPAS units are stiff to turn so sometimes you have to adjust with a bit of force (and lubrication).

Yeah, I'll post up some pictures later tonight. I think I have to shave off a little more and after viewing N_Force's video, I don't think my NPAS was fully opened up. The thing was pretty stiff to turn so I was scared to snap it!

**Edit**
Before:


After:


Got it working--thanks guys!

[N_Force]

Before you move on, one thing you can try is, to tighten the gas release valve in 1/4 or a bit more if possible. But don't try to over tight it. Let's see if it help to reduce the speed a bit to meet what you need.
Regarding the npas, if it is too tight to turn, don't force it, you may damage it. Good luck.

[mr_nuts31]

is it just me or does anybody else had their WE AK short stroke on them to the point that it barely or doesn't push the bolt back to engage the hammer? The weird thing about it is that it works fine when it is held upside down to fire

[MilanWG]

Any thoughts on this?

RA-TECH HOW TO INCREASE WE AK RECOIL POWER.mpg - YouTube

[BlackBerry]

umm..Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the dynamic cylinder on the new rod translate to increased rate of fire? If so, that would be awesome!