WETTI/AWSS - M4/SCAR/HK416 - Technical Summary Thread

[m102404]

Jamuke, if you want to bring it by I'll take a look at it.

I'm also working on the side mount for the hicapa tonight and should have that done soon.

Tys

[Thenooblord]

I tore into my WETTI trying to figure out why it keeps crushing nozzles, and the only thing i can see is when i look down the cylinder, I see some flashing around the hole that gas enters through, any of you have that? the orings on my nozzle were always getting chewed up, so it may be getting caught on that and jamming up

[Karma_]

I'm having bb's jam in my M4. Ever since I put in the tightbore and new hop up and can't see what would be causing this. If I aim the barrel at the ground they just roll out, otherwise 4-5 will just shoot out. Strange....


Edit: after some inspecting I found the larger o-ring on the nozzle to be dry. I lubed it up and will update tomorrow.

[BIG]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

I tore into my WETTI trying to figure out why it keeps crushing nozzles, and the only thing i can see is when i look down the cylinder, I see some flashing around the hole that gas enters through, any of you have that? the orings on my nozzle were always getting chewed up, so it may be getting caught on that and jamming up

Did you changed the white spacer on the nozzle rod lately?

How long is it?

[jamuke]

almost vacumed up the problem with my scar

the pin that the hammer hits to engage the striker assembly had fallen out

simple as that

should it be glued in, threalocked?

[wind953]

So I've just become a member of the WE Scar owners club...hehe, but I've ran into a problem.

There seems to be something odd with the charging handle. I was trying to rack it back for the first time. I was able to pull it back about an inch but it felt like something was acting against me pulling it back. I actually had to use a bit of force to overcome that and pull it back fully. I'm pretty sure that is not supposed to happen, as I've seen review videos with the charging handle being cocked back in one smooth fluid motion.
Note I am aware that for the WE Scar you cannot have the safety on when you pull the handle back, or it will act the same way as what I just described (and it will seriously f*ck sh!t up lol). I made sure that the safety was not on, but the handle acted as if the safety had been on the whole time....
I tried firing with safety on and off and both behaved like they're supposed to.
I did a quick field disassembly, and while pulling out the spring guide assembly I also had to use a bit of force (again...in videos the thing just slide right out). Could it be something wrong with the spring? I don't think so because the gun fires just fine (even on full auto).

Perhaps it's actually nothing to worry about, as long as I really make sure I don't have the safety on while cocking the handle. But I just want to be sure...


Thanks!

[Thenooblord]

Originally Posted by BIG

Did you changed the white spacer on the nozzle rod lately?

How long is it?

no spacer, it got lost somewhere along the line

[Shirley]

Originally Posted by wind953

So I've just become a member of the WE Scar owners club...hehe, but I've ran into a problem.

There seems to be something odd with the charging handle. I was trying to rack it back for the first time. I was able to pull it back about an inch but it felt like something was acting against me pulling it back. I actually had to use a bit of force to overcome that and pull it back fully. I'm pretty sure that is not supposed to happen, as I've seen review videos with the charging handle being cocked back in one smooth fluid motion.
Note I am aware that for the WE Scar you cannot have the safety on when you pull the handle back, or it will act the same way as what I just described (and it will seriously f*ck sh!t up lol). I made sure that the safety was not on, but the handle acted as if the safety had been on the whole time....
I tried firing with safety on and off and both behaved like they're supposed to.
I did a quick field disassembly, and while pulling out the spring guide assembly I also had to use a bit of force (again...in videos the thing just slide right out). Could it be something wrong with the spring? I don't think so because the gun fires just fine (even on full auto).

Perhaps it's actually nothing to worry about, as long as I really make sure I don't have the safety on while cocking the handle. But I just want to be sure...


Thanks!

There is a wheel on your hammer. Spin it. See if it spins freely. Mine had the exact same thing and was scratching the bolt carrier. I then dremel sanded down the wheel thinner and it spins freely fine.

[wind953]

Oh okay thanks I will try that.

[wind953]

If you are talking about the tiny little silver wheel thing, it seems to spin fine. I doubt it is because of that. Because during the last part of the field strip (taking out the bolt carrier), you have to rack the handle all the way back, and even then I'm getting that stuck segment. I think it might have something to do with the the part where the nozzle of the bolt carrier goes into the barrel set (the gold part).

Also, my rear sight does not stand up straight when I flip it up. It's a little bit slanted. I can push it in a little bit more to straighten it up if I push my finger against it, but when I let go to it slants back again. Is that supposed to be adjustable?


Thanks.

[Shirley]

Originally Posted by wind953

If you are talking about the tiny little silver wheel thing, it seems to spin fine. I doubt it is because of that. Because during the last part of the field strip (taking out the bolt carrier), you have to rack the handle all the way back, and even then I'm getting that stuck segment. I think it might have something to do with the the part where the nozzle of the bolt carrier goes into the barrel set (the gold part).

Also, my rear sight does not stand up straight when I flip it up. It's a little bit slanted. I can push it in a little bit more to straighten it up if I push my finger against it, but when I let go to it slants back again. Is that supposed to be adjustable?


Thanks.

Like all problems, my nozzle ia surviving, but the o-ring is out of life soon.. The problem is the rod is loose. Even if you get a thicker C-clip, it will still wobble. The RA-Tech solves the problem.

As for the rear sight, yes that's normal. Mine's like that. lol

[wind953]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

The problem is the rod is loose. Even if you get a thicker C-clip, it will still wobble. The RA-Tech solves the problem.

Are you positive that that's the problem? Nothing's "loose". If anything, something might be too tight lol....thus the "stuck" problem. I don't really want to get the NPAS thingy unless I have to. It's just for adjusting fps isn't it?

THanks.

[Shirley]

Originally Posted by wind953

Are you positive that that's the problem? Nothing's "loose". If anything, something might be too tight lol....thus the "stuck" problem. I don't really want to get the NPAS thingy unless I have to. It's just for adjusting fps isn't it?

THanks.

That is the problem on all WE's. NPAS is not just adjusting FPS, but it's great for an upgrade for durability, especially when you get the one with the stainless.

I'd go with the NPAS, who know's, maybe you want to game it outdoors, and rainy days indoors.. lol

[El Cactus Loco]

hey i have a v1 m4 and there is a bit of slop or wiggle room between the upper and lower receivers. has anyone figured a way to eliminate this wiggle? shims etc? it seems to be coming from the front take down pin, the part of the upper that attaches here isnt a tight fit into the front of the lower. its not major, i just dont like having lose parts esp when they can affect the alignment of the operating mech....

[m102404]

I would NOT use a "magic" pin, expanding type receiver pin...although that's what they're great at doing, I don't think that the airsoft rifle materials are up to the stress while in use (i.e. it'll be nice and tight...then probably pop the front lug of the upper receiver after shooting).

Mine has no play when assembled, but a bit of play when field stripped. If there was a bit of play I'd probably go with a shim ring and try to keep them even between both sides of the front lug.