tm g18 problem

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by solidgear34

UPDATE: partially fixed the problem and now the gun will shoot when the entire gun is faced in its default position, if i change the angle towards 90 degrees on all angle except downwards then the problem happens again :S MAN THESE THINGS ARE COMPLICATED!!!

and manually racking the slide can result in the problem for some reason as well :S

Uhhh...

What!?
I don't understand. What exactly is the "default position". lol.

You're gun is not shooting because there's no interaction in the slide to frame department.

As I've stated before, to get your slide to sit tighter, you need to space the BBU further from the slide. This is done by shimming it. When you're BBU is closer to the frame it will eliminate the wobble because it will crimp the slide rails and frame rails together.

OR

as I stated earlier also, you're trigger bar and your full auto sear is worn such that they no longer have the ability to interact with the slide efficiently.

What I don't understand from you're previous post is how you're gauging your "trigger timing" if your hammer is not working. When you charge your gun the hammer should lock back and trigger should be set in a ready to fire state.
What I'm understanding is that once this happens, your hammer is permanently cocked. So you can't fire the gun even though you've pulled the trigger.

Is that what is happening?

If I am right in assuming this, you can't gauge the "trigger timing" because there's no cycle. If you're hammer is staying cocked, then that means your firing pin (the valve knocker) is not actuating. Which means there's no air coming from the magazine to cycle the shot and trip the trigger bar and the full auto sear as well as reset the hammer. You'd have to keep doing a takedown and releasing the hammer manually each time you charge the gun.

Your description is confusing because it is contradictory to your initial post. That is, apart from the first post that stated:

try to pull the trigger it seems the trigger released but the hammer still has not released.

then you go on to a description that assumes that hammer is functioning:

also found a trigger timing problem where the hammer was pulled down before the trigger pin causing it to malfunction, also the lack of contact for the trigger pin due to the slide might also be it.... is there any way to fix the timing problem?

What exactly is the "trigger pin" you are referring to and how does it cause a malfunction? You're too vague with your descriptions. If you're talking about the pin above the trigger, that has nothing to do with the problem you are describing. It just holds the trigger mech together. it doesn't actuate in anyway when the gun fires....

The "timing problem" is not really a problem. As long as the trigger bar can slip between the tab on SEMI Sear you're ok. I would check the SEMI sear to make sure it's still in good shape.

Although, you can mod the BBU a bit to trip the trigger bar nub much sooner. but It already has little room to work from the start.

As people have already stated in previous posts, I would advise you to take the gun to a gun tech in your area. Us on the internet can only assume so much from your descriptions. We can't properly diagnosis it if the gun is not in front of us (at least I can't)....

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by solidgear34

i actually bought it pre upgraded, yes the mag is tm, tried both standard mags before, no problem to that. and yes the gun worked when i got it in the mail, just recently while testing it developed the problem

So if you know that the standard mags works then that would mean that the long mag may be causing some sort of a problem from the process of elimination.

Why don't you observe how the gun works with the standard mags VS the long mags to see how different the behaviour is....

[solidgear34]

alright

[solidgear34]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Uhhh...

What!?
I don't understand. What exactly is the "default position". lol.

You're gun is not shooting because there's no interaction in the slide to frame department.

As I've stated before, to get your slide to sit tighter, you need to space the BBU further from the slide. This is done by shimming it. When you're BBU is closer to the frame it will eliminate the wobble because it will crimp the slide rails and frame rails together.

OR

as I stated earlier also, you're trigger bar and your full auto sear is worn such that they no longer have the ability to interact with the slide efficiently.

What I don't understand from you're previous post is how you're gauging your "trigger timing" if your hammer is not working. When you charge your gun the hammer should lock back and trigger should be set in a ready to fire state.
What I'm understanding is that once this happens, your hammer is permanently cocked. So you can't fire the gun even though you've pulled the trigger.

Is that what is happening?

If I am right in assuming this, you can't gauge the "trigger timing" because there's no cycle. If you're hammer is staying cocked, then that means your firing pin (the valve knocker) is not actuating. Which means there's no air coming from the magazine to cycle the shot and trip the trigger bar and the full auto sear as well as reset the hammer. You'd have to keep doing a takedown and releasing the hammer manually each time you charge the gun.

Your description is confusing because it is contradictory to your initial post. That is, apart from the first post that stated:

then you go on to a description that assumes that hammer is functioning:



What exactly is the "trigger pin" you are referring to and how does it cause a malfunction? You're too vague with your descriptions. If you're talking about the pin above the trigger, that has nothing to do with the problem you are describing. It just holds the trigger mech together. it doesn't actuate in anyway when the gun fires....

The "timing problem" is not really a problem. As long as the trigger bar can slip between the tab on SEMI Sear you're ok. I would check the SEMI sear to make sure it's still in good shape.

Although, you can mod the BBU a bit to trip the trigger bar nub much sooner. but It already has little room to work from the start.

As people have already stated in previous posts, I would advise you to take the gun to a gun tech in your area. Us on the internet can only assume so much from your descriptions. We can't properly diagnosis it if the gun is not in front of us (at least I can't)....

well what i found out is that the pgc slide and the guarder body was not exactly built for eachother, the pgc slide had kind of a big gap that did not press down on the hammer relase nub like it was supposed to do, might have to mod the bbu as you said :S time to get me a gun doc

[Jagd]

I had the exact same problem, the prob is with the pgc slide. I tried it on the guarder frame and on the stock frame and the prob resides in that the bbu does not sit low enough in the slide. So since it's to high...there is a problem with the hammer and when you pull the trigger nothing happened until you press on the bottom right side of the slide, then it goes off ! There was alot of play with my pgc slide. I am sticking to the stock slide, I fo not have any prob with the stock slide with the nineball spring with rubber spacer. I am wondering actually what would be the best tight fit for a metal upgrade slide? I heard previously that is the pgc slide...but to my disapointment the tolerance are just awfull !