April 23rd, 2013, 12:30 | #16 |
+1 for NPAS
Have it attached to my WE M4 and KWA MP7 and it works like a charm.
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April 24th, 2013, 17:40 | #17 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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Okay so in my quest to become a wetard i think i have a list
NPAS Tight bore (havent picked one yet) Hop rubber (also havent picked one yet) If i can find one spare nozzle but ill likely just wait till the stock one breaks then swap in the ratech aluminium one. Now for some new questions. Co2 or propane? I know co2 should be more consistant and work in colder temps and such but is it alot harder on internals or about the same at a given fps? Are the mags better or worse then the green gas mags as car as leaking and durability?
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April 24th, 2013, 17:56 | #18 |
CO2 are actullay WORST in consistency, and cost a lot more to run.
I sold all mine and replaced with V2 GG ones and I play in winter. |
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April 24th, 2013, 18:30 | #19 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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Really, wow that is unexpected due to the nature of co2 vs propane. Good to know GG mags it is lol
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April 24th, 2013, 18:40 | #20 | |
Suburban Gun Runner
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Just an aside, Drake has had the opposite experience of Kos Mos. He has both propane and c02 mags, and swears by the c02 ones. But... in my experience I love the V2 gas mags and would also suggest them.
Tom
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April 25th, 2013, 02:20 | #21 |
I would not get the ratech aluminum nozzle fr 2 reasons:
1. The built in npas is very inconsistent resulting in fluctuating fps and may affect accuracy. (I personally haven't had time yet to devise a mod to use he old npas in the aluminum nozzle) 2. I've heard of people running aluminum nozzles ans smashing their hop up chambers into pancakes. I'm sure there is a way to cushion the impact from the bolt/nozzle slamming forward. For hop up, I would recommend A+ studio |
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April 25th, 2013, 03:11 | #22 | |
Green Synergy
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I use a Modify rubber in my rifle, and right now I can shoot out to 60 feet at 7.5 MOA under perfect conditions. Nowhere near what a bolt action can do, but good enough considering the advantages of a GBBR. Shimming the inner inside of the outer is the best thing for accuracy I've done so far. Rarely ever needed to change out a nozzle. If anything I've learned two things: Don't ride the charging handle, and never Tap Rack Bang- Always run a Double Feed Drill if your rifle stops firing. The Generation 2s are amazing in terms of durability. I was at UA, magazine ran empty in a very bad situation. Dropped it four feet onto concrete while reloading. Picked it up, it's a little dinged up, but still running like a champ. I'm pretty sure my rifle is 80% RS at the moment... that's preference though. Run it, see what makes you happy, and go from there. The only thing I suggest is you shim the bolt catch and purchase a RS magazine detent ($3), that will remove any bolt locking problems you'll ever have. The FA doesn't work all the time, the RS one does. You don't need an FA on this rifle though... then again it did come in useful when I rode the handle forward on a very, very dirty and dry gun. Turns out that, and the steel bolt's lack of proper dimensioning were causing the Bolt Carrier not to seat fully, resulting in me venting a magazine when I fired it. |
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April 28th, 2013, 14:24 | #23 |
E-30
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What's the right method of using teflon tape ? I saw people putting teflon tape on the inner, and then the hop up rubber over it, and others simply wrap the teflon tape over both the inner barrel and the hop up rubber.
I'm at the point of reassembling a friend's WE M4 and i'll probably use teflon on his and mine.
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April 28th, 2013, 14:34 | #24 |
I put some over both, as the rubber is a better seal than teflon for pneumatic.
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April 28th, 2013, 15:38 | #25 | |
ASC's Whiny Bitch
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Since we're on the topic of WE, I have a WE M4A1 that I turned into a C8, she's still closed bolt. Is it worth it to convert over to open bolt, and if so, what do I need and what am I looking at cost wise?
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April 28th, 2013, 15:47 | #26 |
E-01
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Personally I find OB is the shit, so I'd say yes, worth it.
~$100 for the conversion kit (bolt carrier group, hopup unit, inner barrel, bolt catch), plus you'll need to convert your mags or get new ones too (about $5 each to convert). You'll also need a new NPAS, and I recommend a heavier buffer. See if you can find someone with an open bolt you can take a few shots with and compare.
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April 28th, 2013, 15:53 | #27 |
Out of sheer curiosity, do heavy recoil kits such as the Angry Gun kit affect durability of the components? Does the increased stress from a heavier spring possibly cause buffer tubes to tear apart or receivers to crack?
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April 28th, 2013, 16:07 | #28 |
E-01
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The Angry Gun kit has a much heavier buffer: 205 grams compared to the stock 41g. I think it also has a much stiffer recoil spring. It is said to increase wear on internal parts and I don't doubt that; 200 grams is heavier than many real steel buffers.
I use a 5KU buffer (57g) in one M4 and a TSC (69g) in my CQB gun, both with the stock recoil spring. If there's any increase in wear I'd say it's negligible, and it may even decrease it as there's more inertia and you can feel a slightly heavier "bump" but it's not as sharp as with the stock buffer.
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April 28th, 2013, 21:01 | #29 |
I think Mach1airsoft has them in stock.
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April 28th, 2013, 23:33 | #30 | |
Green Synergy
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