Soldering Aluminum Wire (for Deans)

[Styrak]

No worries, lots of us have rewired G&G Sigs. I've rewired my 550 and 552 (really just the battery end to make it longer), no problem.

[bruce]

Originally Posted by Deadpool

Actually, aluminium IS more conductive then copper and cheaper.

Pound for pound, yes. But copper is more conductive than aluminum.

[Immelmann]

Originally Posted by Styrak

No worries, lots of us have rewired G&G Sigs. I've rewired my 550 and 552 (really just the battery end to make it longer), no problem.

Longer? But there's no space for a battery, let alone wires (and that's in a 550)!

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by Deadpool

Actually, aluminium IS more conductive then copper and cheaper.

No, it is not. Aluminum must be an AWG size larger than copper in order to be rated for the same ampacity. Cost varies depending on commodities pricing, and there have been times when aluminum is more expensive than copper.

But the reason they don't use it in houses anymore is the dilatation factor and the fact that it easily breaks when flexed. I.E.: When changing a fixture, you'd break a wire and needed to replace the whole cable.

Yes, and due to cost as well. Aluminum is not manufactured in sizes generally used for branch cicuits in anywhere close to the quantities that copper is. This also affects the price. There is nothing in the CEC prohibiting aluminum from use though. But I understand why guys don't want to use it.

We do use it commercial applications all the time. A common cable is 3C/#2 ACWU, as well as 750 MCM and 250 MCM ACWU. Housing often gets 3C/#2 NMD for the load side of meterbase/disconnect combos, and USEB is the most used service entrance cable out there.

It's still used it high voltage lines and residential lines as well though.

And ask a service guy how often they have to fix them. And there are limitations on triplex and quadriplex for size and distance and span support too. Aluminum is much more reactive than copper, and damaged lines in aluminum fail much more catastrophically than copper. Plus, you have to deal with corrosion due to galvanic action, cold flow and oxidation.

All in all, aluminum is really a poor material to use for electrical conduction.

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Immelmann

Longer? But there's no space for a battery, let alone wires (and that's in a 550)!

What are you talking about? Stock there's space for an 8.4V stick, and if you rewire it to bypass the built in connector, you can remove the wiring inside the gas tube and fit a 9.6v stick.

Personally I've moved to using a battery bag on the outside with an 8.4v large battery.

[PrIeSt]

Normally aluminium is pulled from homes because when you mix it with new copper they hear st different temps and cam cause twist and screws to loosen. Causing opens and fires.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by PrIeSt

Normally aluminium is pulled from homes because when you mix it with new copper they hear st different temps and cam cause twist and screws to loosen. Causing opens and fires.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Aluminum is only renovated out to prevent future problems. There is nothing wrong with mixing aluminum and copper as long as it is done properly, using special marrettes meant for this joint and an antioxidant compound. Also, care must be taken not to maniulate the wire too much. I have dozens of pictures on my work phone of aluminum joints gone bad.

The issue of aluminum with mechanical connections is called cold flow. Basically, what happens is that when you tighten down the aluminum, you have to apply extreme torque. If you don't, the resonating cable at 60hz heats the wire slightly, and over time, it thins out inside the connection. It doesn't melt (hence the "cold") but it reduces its area, and the connection becomes loose, then the heat starts and finishes the destruction.

The connector does not lossen, the wire changes, same effect though.

[ThunderCactus]

My place was built in 74, so I've got aluminum wiring upstairs. What we did is we pulled every wall plug and switch out, put a 6" copper lead on it so we could use the SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper Cu-hardware (Al rated switches and outlets are goddamn expensive), we used anti-corrosion compound on the Al-Cu connection, and then wrapped the outlet with electrical tape.
That last step is 'unnecessary' when using Cu wire, but as Mac said, the Al connections come loose, sometimes fall off the outlet, and start house fires =/
So that's why you always double secure your connections! Wrap the outlets so even when the Al wire comes loose at the connection, it can't fall off the outlet.