Positive wire getting hot when shooting.

[Styrak]

I think it was the combination of mini tamiya, the standard front wired blade connectors for disassembly, and some random soldered joint (didn't look at how good or bad a job that was).

Rewired to the rear with high quality silicone wire, no joints just the one mini connector. In the picture I hadn't shrunk the shrinkwrap on the wires yet :P

[Kokanee]

That's a nice wiring job.

[ThunderCactus]

is that leaded solder?

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Kokanee

That's a nice wiring job.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

is that leaded solder?

No it's electronics/rosin core solder.

[lurkingknight]

there's electric rosin core solder that contains lead, at least so says the big spool of it on my bench.

[Spike]

I have a spool of it too. Works so well, but so bad for you...

[lurkingknight]

I hate non leaded solder lol.. shit don't stick.

[waylander]

I always use leaded solder as well... I've tried silver solder and it's too much work...

As for the health issues, leads vaporization temperature is 1750C... that's a pretty good soldering iron if you're worried about lead.... it's the rosin core that's creating the smoke so still suggest using a mask but there are no lead issues....

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

there's electric rosin core solder that contains lead, at least so says the big spool of it on my bench.

Well this is Bernzomatic Electronics lead free solder.

[Kokanee]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

I hate non leaded solder lol.. shit don't stick.

I've heard/seen that opinion a lot lately, and I use non-leaded solder and never have a problem with it adhering.

I find people that have problems with non-leaded solder are doing two things wrong;

- using a 20w instead of a 40w soldering iron (go big or go home); and
- not using flux to prepare surfaces for soldering.

[lurkingknight]

It could be true, I haven't used nonleaded since I got my soldering station, but even using a 40w crappy iron I had issues with the non leaded not adhering properly.

I just gave up on it and bought the leaded stuff and have been using that without issue, only when I run into crappy wires will it not adhere, and that's usually because pretinned/coated wire sucks up solder much more efficiently I find. Uncoated wire seems to need a lot of flux, whereas the coated stuff needs none at all aside from the prefluxed solder.

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Kokanee

I've heard/seen that opinion a lot lately, and I use non-leaded solder and never have a problem with it adhering.

I find people that have problems with non-leaded solder are doing two things wrong;

- using a 20w instead of a 40w soldering iron (go big or go home); and
- not using flux to prepare surfaces for soldering.

Heh, I have a Mastercraft (CanTire) soldering station with 20w/40w settings. I've never touched the 20w setting.

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by Kokanee

I've heard/seen that opinion a lot lately, and I use non-leaded solder and never have a problem with it adhering.

I find people that have problems with non-leaded solder are doing two things wrong;

- using a 20w instead of a 40w soldering iron (go big or go home); and
- not using flux to prepare surfaces for soldering.

Mines an 80W, I have no problem getting anything hot lol
I'm also using this ancient acidic flux that just works fantastic on everything

I deal with PTW motors now, so everything is silver solder. The end bell gets so damn hot most leaded solders actually melt and let go after as few as 6 shots O_O

[Styrak]

I should probably get a better/more powerful iron...

[pestobanana]

Gun doctor tag isn't necessarily a sign of competence, its just a sign that an admin thinks you're good enough to swap parts. There are a lot of really good techs that don't have the tag (obviously).

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

cause you know, the other guys with the pro tags and the one who can't get one but still builds awesome guns for people are all wrong.

As for soldering, I use 60/40 Pb/Sn solder. I've tried lead free stuff and its fine for basic soldering up to 16 AWG, but when you want to quickly cover the entire soldering surface of a deans connector, soldering the inside of a motor connector, soldering MOSFETs together, or soldering bigass batteries with 10 AWG wiring, you need something that melts more easily. I sometimes have to use a bigass 240W soldering iron on 10 AWG wiring, and unless I use lead solder I still have trouble doing a nice, clean job.