Airsoft Canada
http://triggerairsoft.com/shop/

Go Back   Airsoft Canada > Discussion > Upgrades & Modifications
Home Forums Register Gallery FAQ Calendar
Retailers Community News/Info International Retailers IRC Today's Posts

Why do I need to upgrade (or not) - with explanations!

:

Upgrades & Modifications

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old March 10th, 2004, 17:50   #16
ILLusion
GBB Whisperer
 
ILLusion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Toronto
Good find. Copper is still softer than steel and harder than brass. Those bushings aren't pure copper though. It's an alloy of some sort and I'm pretty sure it's alloyed to make it tougher and harder than raw copper.

The ICS copper bushings, (like most metal bushings) are manufactured with a sintered process. The process makes the material tougher than in it's raw form and it allows the manufacturer to impregnate the metal with oil.

As a result, when heat is built up due to friction, the metal will "sweat" oil. These are the bushings that are also called "oilless" bushings. I personally prefer these over CNC machined bushings, even if it has "oil channels."
ILLusion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10th, 2004, 18:53   #17
Agit-Prop
It's True He's Not Dead! Just Molding!
 
Agit-Prop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontariariario, Canada
Send a message via ICQ to Agit-Prop
They're probably "bearing bronze"
__________________

Hate me??? Buy the T-Shirt!!!
FREE TIBET*

*With purchase of Tibet of equal or greater value
Agit-Prop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10th, 2004, 20:04   #18
ILLusion
GBB Whisperer
 
ILLusion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Toronto
Is that a "special" sintering powder mix of Cu & tin specifically for bearing use?
ILLusion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10th, 2004, 20:39   #19
Agit-Prop
It's True He's Not Dead! Just Molding!
 
Agit-Prop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontariariario, Canada
Send a message via ICQ to Agit-Prop
Quote:
Originally Posted by [url=http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/sinter.htm
this site[/url]]Porous bearings are manufactured by sintering, e.g. powder of the material components is pressed together at high temperature and high pressure. Despite of the powder is melted together capillary channels remain resulting in a porous material. By impregnation of the channels with liquid or solid lubricants, bearing materials acquires that are lubricated for life, they have not to be lubricated during lifetime. As a fact of the capillary channels porous materials are bros and sensitive for cracks.

Examples of sintered porous bearing materials are the ceramic materials, carbon brushes of electric drives, porous bronze bearing bushes, aluminum matrix composites consisting of a mixture of aluminum powder and ceramic granules and sintered polymers.

The most widely used type of porous bearing in consumer apparatus is a porous bronze consisting of 90% bronze, 10% tin and often some addition of graphite and lead to improve dry running properties. Furthermore a frequent use is made of porous iron bearings, which can take up a higher bearing load but have a lower permissible speed of the shaft in the bearing.

Lubrication regime: About 10 to 35% of the porous material consists of lubricant impregnated channels. As a consequence of the porous bearing surface a sufficient hydrodynamic pressure distribution to avoid mechanical contact between shaft and bush as in solid bearings cannot be created. The pressure build up forces the oil into to pores of the loaded part of the bearing. Then the oil flow to the unloaded section of the porous bearing and replenish the gab [Morgan, 1957]. The type of lubrication that occurs can be assessed by determining the so-called Stribeck curve, which gives the relation between the friction and the shaft speed. Depending on rotational speed and load porous bearings almost invariably operate in the region of mixed lubrication.
It could be a mix of bronze and PTFE or graphite powders
__________________

Hate me??? Buy the T-Shirt!!!
FREE TIBET*

*With purchase of Tibet of equal or greater value
Agit-Prop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10th, 2004, 20:59   #20
ILLusion
GBB Whisperer
 
ILLusion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Toronto
hmm... interesting indeed.

Prometheus and Systema both have oilless bushings that have a bronzish colouring to it as well.
ILLusion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10th, 2004, 22:00   #21
Agit-Prop
It's True He's Not Dead! Just Molding!
 
Agit-Prop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontariariario, Canada
Send a message via ICQ to Agit-Prop
Bronze is used for many applications including valve guides in automotive engines.
__________________

Hate me??? Buy the T-Shirt!!!
FREE TIBET*

*With purchase of Tibet of equal or greater value
Agit-Prop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 5th, 2004, 23:55   #22
eggman51
 
eggman51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Other relavant good technical info here:
http://filairsoft.com/airsoft124.htm

Eamonn aka eggman
eggman51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 30th, 2005, 02:51   #23
lamlok
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: HK
Send a message via ICQ to lamlok Send a message via MSN to lamlok
In HK, the mainstream Mech box mod is to use 8mm bearings for high powered guns.
The large diameter bearing gives both sturctural and friction advantages. Is it common to see guns in excess of 500ft/sec while having 25+ shot/sec.
Of course during the mod, the slightest misalignment will totally ruin the gearbox. I've seen too many DIY failure. Only the most experienced gunsimth will be able to perform such mod.
lamlok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 30th, 2005, 02:59   #24
BC_K
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamlok
In HK, the mainstream Mech box mod is to use 8mm bearings for high powered guns.
The large diameter bearing gives both sturctural and friction advantages. Is it common to see guns in excess of 500ft/sec while having 25+ shot/sec.
Of course during the mod, the slightest misalignment will totally ruin the gearbox. I've seen too many DIY failure. Only the most experienced gunsimth will be able to perform such mod.
Congrat's on diggin up a thread that has been dead for half a year +.

We won't have such a problem cause we DON'T use AEG's that shoot 500fps+.

Welcome to asc, try not to awaken too many threads that are dead. :wink:
BC_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 24th, 2005, 22:03   #25
nic_s
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: BC
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamlok
500ft/sec while having 25+ shot/sec.
I'm really sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I gotta ask, am I the only one shocked at hearing 500fps @1,500 RPM? Holy shit, I had no idea an AEG was capable of that. I mean, never mind strong internals, you'd have to hook up a freaking car battery to get numbers like that!
__________________
...and she's terribly partial to the periwinkle blue.
nic_s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 24th, 2005, 23:46   #26
Nocturnal
oO?
 
Nocturnal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stouffville, ON
i have seen a video of an AEG shooting a watermelon in half a LOOOONG time ago.
i dont know what battery they used or upgrades.. but i would not want to be at the other end of that muzzle.
__________________

"SI VIS PACEM, PARA BELLUM"
Nocturnal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 20th, 2006, 16:48   #27
Gryphon
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: MB
Holy thread revival, Batman!

Can anyone provide a general list of velocities at which point you ought to start thinking about durability upgrades, and for which part? For instance, obviously a stock or slightly hotter gun seems to run just fine with stock internals. However let's say you wanted to push your AEG to 340, 360, or 380 fps. At what point does it become prudent to install new parts to avoid accellerated wear, bearing in mind that cost is always a factor? No point in spending $100 on new parts if you don't need them.

I suppose it also depends on gearbox construction, because my CA249 box is decidedly stronger than the Version 2 in my M15A4. However some rough starting points would be of tremendous assistance. Thanks!
Gryphon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 24th, 2006, 03:30   #28
mouse
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Port Coquitlam
Send a message via MSN to mouse
Woop, Thread revival so hopefully Shuridys get his or her answer, and this thread had been an awsome guide to upgrading my m4!
mouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 24th, 2006, 07:09   #29
Greylocks
 
Greylocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gatineau, Quebec (Near Ottawa)
The honest answer is actually pretty dumb sounding; the moment you upgrade the power, you must upgreade the durability.
The guns are designed for their 'stock' power. Anything more is your problem.
Greylocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 2nd, 2006, 20:41   #30
bigbiscuit
 
bigbiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toronto
Send a message via MSN to bigbiscuit
you didn't really explain whether to upgrade right away or not though..just what parts to upgrade and such, good article though, props to that
__________________


pew pew.
bigbiscuit is offline   Reply With Quote
ReplyTop


Go Back   Airsoft Canada > Discussion > Upgrades & Modifications

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Airsoft Canada
http://triggerairsoft.com/shop/

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:27.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.