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need help on broken hi capa nozzle

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Old November 12th, 2008, 08:44   #16
RacingManiac
 
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Everything else uses the SD parts, but leave the floating valve stock.

I have had problem before with the Guarder outer barrel, it doesn't like the PGC or SD slide that I used with it. But I think Guarder have since change their outer barrel design to a 2 piece. Not sure how the new style works though. I've had some problem with the SD grip with Nova Beavertail. But I am not sure if the stock parts will have the same issue...
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Old November 12th, 2008, 10:03   #17
m102404
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This is probably a bit late to the party, but here's an issue that I was working on a while back.

I picked up a Hicapa 5.1 that was misfiring. Stock internals, SD Springfield slide, SD chamber and barrel. Turned out the nozzle was cracked (sort of just like in your pic, but more up around the hidden section).

I gutting a stock 5.1 and used that nozzle...it also cracked after 2, maybe 3, mags.

I picked up a SD nozzle (the white UHMW ones) and it sort of worked. Same thing as already recommended...use everything in the kit but the floating valve. Be sure to check that the tiny little screw that keeps the floating valve retainer clip thingy in place doesn't protrude and impede the movement of the floating valve.

The pistol would jam re-chambering the next shot. Didn't break though...testament to how tough it was. Upon slowly cycling the slide and close inspection, it turned out that the stub just below the nozzle wasn't picking up bbs from the mag properly. The bottom edge/corner of the nub was hitting the bb just high of centerline, pushing the bb down into the mag and riding up over top of it...eventually jamming the nozzle as it moved forward.

I swapped around a bunch of Hicapa parts to see if it was the mag release/catch, frame to slide fit or what. I could have shimmed the blowback unit with a piece of paper/tape wedged between the slide and the top of the chamber (essentially pushing the chamber and nozzle down so that the nub hit a bit lower)...but there's a bit of vertical play in the nozzle so I doubt that would have lasted long. Also...moving the blowback unit down introduces a bunch of tolerance/clearance issues.

I ended up gently heating (well...not really gently, I just used a lighter) the nub and slightly pushed it down (i.e. further from the nozzle so that it traveled a little lower as it ran back and forth with the slide). That changed the angle of the face of the nub, which is essentially squared off, so I slightly refiled the contact face of the nub. Now the nub always hits below centerline of any bb loaded in any of my mags. It's worked perfectly and I've fired hundreds (probably close to a thousand) shots through it so far.

NOTE: The heating was done to a SD nozzle...and it gets soft really quick. You don't need much and shouldn't be touching it when it's too soft. I have no idea how a stock nozzle would hold up to that.

Soon after I did that mod, I setup a PDI compensator kit on the pistol. It clamps to the inner barrel. Same as without the compensator...the pistol just keeps chugging along...rapid fire, slow fire, racking the slide slow/fast...doesn't matter. It's my go-to pistol for CAPS (Airsoft IPSC) and it wouldn't be if it wasn't 100% reliable (unlike the moron pulling the trigger...).

Best of luck...the sad part is that you'll be so bored once you get this one working just right, and then you'll start another....

Tys
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Old November 12th, 2008, 10:30   #18
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I actually had the same issue with that BB pusher on the SD nozzle, and when I had the SD slide on mine I had a piece of duct tape on the slide above the BBU to push it down. At first I cleaned the BB retainer/loader thing on the mag to make sure its free of burr, and I tried using a SD version of that part as well and not much differences. Then I tried the tape mod and it seems to work fine. After going to the AS slide/frame I haven't notice this issue yet, and it has no tape to it at the moment. If it reappears I might try the lighter route.
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Old November 12th, 2008, 10:40   #19
m102404
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I'm not keen on paper/tape fillers...sort of rubs me the wrong way after dumping $$$ on a pistol to trick it out. It works...and it's great for troubleshooting...and it's not visible...but still, just doesn't seem "fair".

If you do the lighter thing...go gently.
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Old November 12th, 2008, 15:13   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
@ILLusion: just install the nozzle.....how did u know that the shooters design one wont stuck?
Experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
one thing though,i know that i should use the stock tm floating valve.but how about the parts that keep it in place (the one with the screw hole) should i use the shooters design/stock tm?
Use the Shooters Design valve blocker. Just don't use the valve.
One tip: there is almost always a moulding sprue protruding from the bottom of the valve blocker. It always catches on the inlet on the loading muzzle. Take a fine hobby knife to shave that flash off to ease installation and give a better fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
if this problem fixed, im planning to install a PDI 6,01 inner,guarder stainless outer, and SD grip.any advice regarding those parts? thanks guys
The Guarder outer barrel sucks. Get something else.
If you're using stock controls, the SD grip is fine. Although, I've found some of the recently produced ones are tight at the mag catch. You may need to do some filing to open the hole up a bit. You shouldn't have any problems mating it to your stock mid-frame.

Last edited by ILLusion; November 12th, 2008 at 15:20..
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Old November 12th, 2008, 15:58   #21
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Threadjack

Same goes for WA 1911/2011's

Guarder, crap.

Shooters Design, great.

Tip of the day:

SD and Prime metal slides for WA's
tend to have a little extra metal
protruding from the back end of the
slide rail. If you've installed a slide
and it sticks a bit near the back, this
is why. A couple of quick file strokes
and viola!
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Old November 12th, 2008, 22:47   #22
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damn,just my luck.i allready tried to install the guarder outer barrel (the new 2 piece design),and another problem arises.its really hard to insert the hopup into the chamber,at first i thought that its normal since i have to bend the plastic outer barrel a bit to remove the hopup+inner assembly and u cant bent the metal ones.but when i reassemble the gun,i cant rack the slide.it seems like the hopup assy/outer wont move downwards/give way for the slide to move.what to do? i cant field strip the gun now.
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Old November 12th, 2008, 22:58   #23
Shirley
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Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
damn,just my luck.i allready tried to install the guarder outer barrel (the new 2 piece design),and another problem arises.its really hard to insert the hopup into the chamber,at first i thought that its normal since i have to bend the plastic outer barrel a bit to remove the hopup+inner assembly and u cant bent the metal ones.but when i reassemble the gun,i cant rack the slide.it seems like the hopup assy/outer wont move downwards/give way for the slide to move.what to do? i cant field strip the gun now.
If it was really hard to place the inner barrel through the outer, why not spray some silicone oil for it to slide in easier.

That's the thing about Guarder outer barrels, they won't be friendly with SD slides.

BTW, what slide do you have?
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Old November 13th, 2008, 02:41   #24
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Told ya!

guarder sucks for outer barrels, slides and metal kits in general. Great bang for the buck, but poor on compatibility and production quality. The fact that all of their slides require destructive modifications just reeks of poor engineering thought & design.
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Old November 14th, 2008, 01:45   #25
simohayha
 
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@Mr.Hitman: my slide is from airsoft surgeon.its pretty good actually.the problem is more from my lack of experience and poor selection of parts.

@ILLusion:guarder outer barrel really is one piece of crap.im ordering a SD shamber.but in the mean time im gonna use tm plastic outer,will it be okay? and since it need quite some force to insert the hopup to the chamber,any suggetion on how to remove my hopup&inner from the guarder chamber safely?thanks

the sd grips fits just fine,and you're right,i have to file the hole for mag catch,grip safety and trigger too for all the parts to fit

Last edited by simohayha; November 14th, 2008 at 01:50..
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Old November 14th, 2008, 01:48   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
@ILLusion:guarder outer barrel really is one piece of crap.im ordering a SD shamber.but in the mean time im gonna use tm plastic outer,will it be okay? and since it need quite some force to insert the hopup to the chamber,any suggetion on how to remove my hopup&inner from the guarder chamber safely?thanks
The plastic outer will be chewed up from the slide.

When taking it out, try some silicone oil to get it out?
I'm not sure how it's jammed in like that..
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Old November 14th, 2008, 01:50   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simohayha View Post
@ILLusion:guarder outer barrel really is one piece of crap.im ordering a SD shamber.but in the mean time im gonna use tm plastic outer,will it be okay? and since it need quite some force to insert the hopup to the chamber,any suggetion on how to remove my hopup&inner from the guarder chamber safely?thanks
No, it will not be okay. TM outer barrel does not use threading like SD does.

SD chamber requires no force to insert the hop up. If you're using force, then you're doing something wrong.

As for removing the hop up chamber... do it... carefully? I don't force things in if it doesn't go in... otherwise you'll have a hard time getting it out.

Personally, I'd hate the Guarder barrel so much that I'd just take a dremel cutting wheel to it and cut off all the lugs so it doesn't block your hop up chamber and you could just pull it right out... but that's just me. :P
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Old November 14th, 2008, 02:03   #28
Shirley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
No, it will not be okay. TM outer barrel does not use threading like SD does.

SD chamber requires no force to insert the hop up. If you're using force, then you're doing something wrong.

As for removing the hop up chamber... do it... carefully? I don't force things in if it doesn't go in... otherwise you'll have a hard time getting it out.

Personally, I'd hate the Guarder barrel so much that I'd just take a dremel cutting wheel to it and cut off all the lugs so it doesn't block your hop up chamber and you could just pull it right out... but that's just me. :P
Pfftt, I think I was really lucky that my Guarder outer fits perfectly in my SD slide and all that.
I just made a video of taking it down and putting it back.
Will be up soon for simohayha to get a bit of help? lol
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Old November 14th, 2008, 02:47   #29
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YouTube - Take Down 5.1

lol
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Old November 15th, 2008, 01:57   #30
simohayha
 
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thanks alot Mr.Hitman for the video,the thing is with your outer barrel,the leftside nub in the chamber looks rounded.did u file that part,since on mine its kinda longer and relatively square,thats why my hopup stuck.i cant slightly turn the hopup unit since that nub is on the way.
i finally able to remove it by filing that parts so that it looks more like Mr.hitman's outer,after that, its easy.but now my hopup unit is slightly damaged from the filing.(its kinda tight so sometimes the file hits the hopup unit).im gonna post a picture of the unit.

in the meantime im installing the hop+inner to the standard plastic outer and the slide racks just fine.ill be trying it with gas after im back from work.

About the guarder outer:i found out that the slide stuck/wont rack back because the outer wont move back along with the slide as it should be.so theres something preventing the "back and down" mechanism of the outer barrel.it seems like if i release the slide after assembling the gun,the recoil caused the outer to be positioned too forward thus resulting jam/stuck slide.i can however rack the slide back if i push the tip (forward most) part of the outer barrel while pulling the slide back.i also noticed that the big nub on the left of the chamber (the one that interacts with the hopup unit and lower frame) is bigger/further awar from the chamber main body compared to the standard TM.this makes the outer to sit slightly higher that standard one.is this the cause?
thanks alot
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