WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by viking9934

look at this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDhFr...3PhQqE&index=6

i have one in my glock 17 and an other one in my glock 18c and no more lock feeling.

As for the guarder nozzle i have one and if you have cut your nozzle spring guide(if you use aftermarket slide) it will last long. i'm near 1000 bbs and still strong...

Yes, thanks, this seems to be my issue. If i don't make any mods, the issue will worsen?

[MaciekA]

Originally Posted by TANNER

Mine worked great straight from the store (evike), although I know maciej has had some problems with other varieties of WE mags, having to soak the o-rings before use. (1911 if I remember).

To clarify the above bit, I soaked the seals out of the box because they seemed a bit dry and I think the mags had been empty for a long time and I detected some leaking. I found the seals on the insides of my WE mags to be pretty damned impressive, big fat and juicy seals compared to my TM seals.

I did the seal soaking on Glock, 1911, and Hi-Capa mags by WE. They're holding up well.

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by TANNER

Fit just the same as the TM mag's and the finish is good. The baseplates are a little loose compared to the TM but thats just me being picky.

The big difference is in the fill. While the TM mags sputter when they are full the WE mags fill completely silently. They also dont seem to leak as much (if any) gas while filling.

Mine worked great straight from the store (evike), although I know maciej has had some problems with other varieties of WE mags, having to soak the o-rings before use. (1911 if I remember).

At half the price you cant go wrong, I always reach for a WE mag before the TM, they are just backups now.

Gee I wish I knew this before I bought 4 TM extended mags for my 18c >.>

Also wish I knew about the guarder nozzle thing

[kar120c]

About the mags, For my KJW G27 as first spare I bought a Marui G265 mag; made much better with satin finish and metal base plate (kjw is plastic), differences in filling, KJW is very silent and need a little of practice to know when it is full, Marui leack a bit of gas during filling but it is easy to know when i full filled.
one thing I don't like about the Marui is the upper lip, very tight, it is impossible to remove bb's with finger as I do with the KJW

One issue I have with Marui mag is that sometime after inserted doesn't shot; I pull the trigger but probably the valve knocker dosn't hit the mag valve.
Anyone know the solution to this issue? I read that is necessary to file the plastic square under the lip

[kar120c]

Anyone has tried this? http://www.get-reload.com/aip-alumin...es-p-1447.html

If no too much fitting is required it is much lighter than the stock one and this should help the cycling action

[fyra]

Searched for a while but couldn't find a straight up answer, so I'll just ask here real quick...

Is it possible to use the spring guide rod from a KSC-based Glock in a TM-based one?

EDIT: To clarify, I mean the recoil spring guide rod.

[e-luder]

Anyone has tried this? http://www.get-reload.com/aip-alumin...es-p-1447.html

If no too much fitting is required it is much lighter than the stock one and this should help the cycling action

This is alright. I've tried this before. It wasn't quite as drop in friendly as some users have reported. I had to modify my slide lock slightly to get it to sit properly.

The action is not really increased with this thing installed though. It's all about the slide to outer barrel action that makes the action more fluent.

Searched for a while but couldn't find a straight up answer, so I'll just ask here real quick...

Is it possible to use the spring guide rod from a KSC-based Glock in a TM-based one?

EDIT: To clarify, I mean the recoil spring guide rod.

Not quite sure if it will work. I've never tried swapping the two. I tried just the springs.
THe main difference in the two is the spring stoppper thingy at the end. The KSC Version has a flatbed while the Marui one has a more pointed top. Plus I think that the Marui is slightly thicker. I dunno I have to check tonight to see...

It may work if your slide doesn't have the slide spacer installed....

[kar120c]

e-luder can you help me for this issue?

In my KJW G27 the stock mag works well but the Marui one sometime after inserted doesn't shot; I pull the trigger but probably the valve knocker dosn't hit the mag valve.
It works properly only inserting it with strenght. I think may be the upper seal a little too thick than the KJW one. Have you experiences a similar problem?

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[e-luder]

Originally Posted by kar120c

e-luder can you help me for this issue?

In my KJW G27 the stock mag works well but the Marui one sometime after inserted doesn't shot; I pull the trigger but probably the valve knocker dosn't hit the mag valve.
It works properly only inserting it with strenght. I think may be the upper seal a little too thick than the KJW one. Have you experiences a similar problem?

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It only works if the mag is "slammed" in there? That is, the Marui mag is inserted with a lot of force?

There is only two POSSIBLE causes for why that magazine isn't working properly.

1). The magazine catch is not compatible with the Marui mag and can't seat the Marui mag properly.

2). The valve knocker (the firing pin) does not have enough clearance to hit the MARUI magazine blowoff valve efficiently, resulting in the symptoms you've described. This is caused by the difference in height that Marui mag has VS the KJW mag. In this case, the Marui mag Valve probably sits higher than the KJW mag valve. Thus, the strike face of the firing pin can't make the proper contact point on the Marui system. It probably slips around valve or something.

3). The hammer spring is not strong enough. This not a likely conclusion but it may help point you on where to look.

It could be a possibility that both are happening at the same time. But since you say that the magazine is works only when you apply force during insertion, I would assume that the magazine catch is not seating the magazine properly.

I don't have the gun in front of me to see what's going with it. So I could be wrong entirely which is why I won't recommend a fix for you. Inspect your gun first....

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by e-luder

It only works if the mag is "slammed" in there? That is, the Marui mag is inserted with a lot of force?

There is only two POSSIBLE causes for why that magazine isn't working properly.

1). The magazine catch is not compatible with the Marui mag and can't seat the Marui mag properly.

2). The valve knocker (the firing pin) does not have enough clearance to hit the MARUI magazine blowoff valve efficiently, resulting in the symptoms you've described. This is caused by the difference in height that Marui mag has VS the KJW mag. In this case, the Marui mag Valve probably sits higher than the KJW mag valve. Thus, the strike face of the firing pin can't make the proper contact point on the Marui system. It probably slips around valve or something.

3). The hammer spring is not strong enough. This not a likely conclusion but it may help point you on where to look.

It could be a possibility that both are happening at the same time. But since you say that the magazine is works only when you apply force during insertion, I would assume that the magazine catch is not seating the magazine properly.

I don't have the gun in front of me to see what's going with it. So I could be wrong entirely which is why I won't recommend a fix for you. Inspect your gun first....

I have ordered many upgrades for my pistol and one of this is the Guarder steel magazine catch, I hope this solve the issue

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Danke

It was my thumb, when I switched stances my weak thumb sits right by the catch.

With the stock frame and thumb rest the weak is under the strong. With the HK3 frame and backstrap I can't use the thumb rest so I wrap the weak over the strong in the isosceles.

It's just a hair of a change but enough to make it happen.

Sorry I got the two terms mixed up. On isoceles, I use the "straight thumb" grip:



This allows me to clear the slide catch better because the weak thumb is off the catch completely. On bladed stance I go thumb over thumb to compensate for the bended elbow.



There is a trick that I use wherein I use the curvature of the thumb over the slide catch to allow if full clearance. But then again, this is only for my preference.

In general though, I prefer the straight thumb method as it allows me better control.

[Danke]

Same grip with the strong one or two handed, both thumbs forward. Going to the i-grip I moved my weak thumb back a bit.

I need to shoot a lot more in the i to fine tune where my hand is and make 2 thumbs forward work for that. Also I have to put on gloves since I am usually wearing those too.

Morale of the story at least related to all things Glock is I don't know if I need an extended slide release yet.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Danke

Same grip with the strong one or two handed, both thumbs forward. Going to the i-grip I moved my weak thumb back a bit.

I need to shoot a lot more in the i to fine tune where my hand is and make 2 thumbs forward work for that. Also I have to put on gloves since I am usually wearing those too.

Morale of the story at least related to all things Glock is I don't know if I need an extended slide release yet.

Have you tried something like this?


It'll move the grip tang a tad lower and force you to have a lower grip registration. Theoretically, your thumb placement should be just below the slide catch with this installed.

The problem is, depending on the comfort level of your trigger pull (ie. HOW you pull the trigger or "squeeze" the trigger) the placement of your finger on the trigger may be altered out of its comfort zone.

If you're having trouble with an ungloved hands with the stock slide catch, then it may be wise for you to stay off the extended slide catch. The GunsModify can catch very easily on a really thick glove.

[Danke]

I had a thumb rest before I put the HK3 frame on. It won't fit with the extra backstrap.

I kind of like the slim feel with it off but I might grind it out and see.

[jordan7831]

Originally Posted by Qlong

There is, I've developed a simple procedure which transfers the energy from recoil into the frame of the trigger pin hole rather than into the fastener post.

I'm just working on CAD which simulates the stresses on the post before and after the modification.

Preliminary testing proves successful as no signs of cosmetic fatigue or fractures along the surface of the fastener post on Frame #1.

I can't say much about Frame #2.

Preliminary tests done outdoors at 2.0 degrees centigrade on compressed air @ approx 110 PSI to exaggerate plastic behavior in the material.

Frames #1 and #2 on Left and Right respectively.

So how about that tutorial? Ive been dying to do this to my glock.