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Classic Army Aug not firing

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Old March 7th, 2012, 01:14   #1
shawnahew
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Classic Army Aug not firing

So, I've recently purchased a Classic Army Steyr Aug, and it's a bit different from what I'm used to for AEG. As in, lots :banghead:

I'm currently encountering a problem that I'm fairly familiar with, but in past, standard style rifles(a scar-l, an m16) the solution was fairly simple.

Pulling the trigger yeilds no results. Nothing. The battery is fully charged and plugged in, the terminals(that I can see) are fully connected(even soldered on, which is a pleasant surprise), but pulling the trigger(which still makes the same pleasing sound it used to) fails to cause the motor to even turn. This happened while I was firing it single shot(no mode selector on this one, just pull the trigger halfway for single) and it hasn't fired again since. In past weapons, this was caused by the trigger mechanism slipping(this might still be the case, but the weapon breaks down so weirdly I couldn't even tell) or simply the motor getting stuck 'half', which a quick run on full auto would force back into gear.

Having broken the thing down a BIT, I'm finding that the trigger mechanism is pushing the whole motor assembly back when I pull the trigger, if I don't have the backplate on. The motor and everything is housed in the shoulder stock, which doesn't really come apart(it does, but it's plastic so it's sort of fused closed after the screws, and I don't want to crack it apart). If I have the backplate on, the trigger doesn't even pull, which I suspect is caused by SOMETHING of the trigger mechanism having slipped or come loose or something, but I don't know enough about this to make even the most uneducated guess, and given that it's a fairly new gun, I want to avoid doing anything I can't undo, in-case I end up bringing it back.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 01:43   #2
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If you want to get the gear box out without splitting the gun then loosen (don't remove) all of the screws in rear part of the body, remove the backplate ...and now (I know this sounds weird) give it a sharp drop on the butt on the corner of your workbench or desk or something. Do this directly down vertically with the muzzle point up. The gearbox will pop out the back. You shouldn't have to split the receiver.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 01:47   #3
shawnahew
 
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I have been tinkering with it since the intro post and the best I can tell the trigger mechanism is misaligned. Going to go with your advice on this one and see what I can figure out. Fingers crossed on not breaking the f*** out of it!
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Old March 7th, 2012, 01:55   #4
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So, got it apart and I'm a LITTLE enlightened, but still pretty much out of my element. The motor assembly is all one piece, shaped not entirely like a pistol. The trigger pushes a long sort of oval bit of metal(two pieces shaped like []) backwards into the 'trigger' of the pistol, but the copper connector on the 'back' of the trigger and on the front of the 'handle' don't actually touch, which it would seem they should. I figured being able to get to this stage might leave me with a few answers, but it turns out I'm more out of my element then I thought :/
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:06   #5
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plug the gb into a battery and watch how the trigger mech works. or fails to work.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:13   #6
shawnahew
 
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Seems to me the mechanism pushes the 'trigger' of the motor assembly when you pull it back, and as far as I can tell it's managing to do this, but for some reason the 'trigger' doesn't push far enough for the copper contacts to touch at all, even when I try doing it with my hands. With the battery in pulling the 'trigger' still doesn't do anything. it feels like even without the contacts making contact that there's something internal that feels like it's 'staged'(as per the half-pull for semi, full for full auto)
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:32   #7
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The aug mechbox is a standard V3 with a modified wiring for the 2 stage trigger. The 2 stage trigger (that you feel when firing) is part of the aug body, not the mechbox trigger. Semi-auto works like all V2 and V3s. After a complete cycle, the cutoff lever lifts the trigger contact and disconnects the trigger. For full auto, is what you see, when the trigger is fully pressed down, the back of the trigger (which has copper contacts) comes in contact with 2 leads which completes the auto firing circuit, bypassing the semi-auto connection.

If the trigger is having problems moving all the way back to contact the auto contacts, the trigger mech might have something jamming it. either one of the springs is misplace or something.

Also the trigger connecter inside the mechbox (for semi-auto) for augs is different from other V3's. The groove inside it is closer to the edge. This allows the aug to fire semi-auto at half trigger pull. If you use a regular V3 trigger connector, the semi-auto action should occur on the second half of the trigger throw after the first stage of the trigger. (i hope that makes sense)
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Last edited by lord_sid; March 7th, 2012 at 02:39..
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:34   #8
shawnahew
 
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Is there a way for me to upload a picture of the motor mechanism and so forth to show what I mean?
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:43   #9
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if you can, that would helpful.

if not make a photobucket account.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 02:55   #10
shawnahew
 
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This is the picture. If you need clarification for any of it, let me know
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File Type: jpg IMG_2306.JPG (88.1 KB, 19 views)
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Old March 7th, 2012, 03:06   #11
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normally the trigger should be able to go all the way back so the contacts on the back of the trigger connect. Since you say it doesn't, i think theres an internal jam in the trigger contact. You will need to take the mechbox apart.

Does the mechbox fire if you short (connect) the 2 contacts on the handle?
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TM Steyr Aug A2 (Phantom) : TM Steyr Aug A2 (RIS) : Aftermath Steyr A2 (CQB) : APS Aug A1 H-Bar - 10 Low-Cap, 4 Mid-Cap and 2 Real-Cap Mags
TM/KJW G26 - 4 Mags
KJW KP-05 Hi-Capa - 2 Regular and 5 Extended Mags
Crossman S36P DEAD - 14 Shells
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Old March 7th, 2012, 03:09   #12
shawnahew
 
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haven't tried and was worried to. What should I use to (technically) short it?
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Old March 7th, 2012, 03:11   #13
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anything that will conduct electricity.
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TM Steyr Aug A2 (Phantom) : TM Steyr Aug A2 (RIS) : Aftermath Steyr A2 (CQB) : APS Aug A1 H-Bar - 10 Low-Cap, 4 Mid-Cap and 2 Real-Cap Mags
TM/KJW G26 - 4 Mags
KJW KP-05 Hi-Capa - 2 Regular and 5 Extended Mags
Crossman S36P DEAD - 14 Shells
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Old March 7th, 2012, 03:18   #14
shawnahew
 
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whelp, I learned a few things

It shot sparks at me when I bridged the connection with my knife, but it works now

I think the motor was seized or something, and it works now.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 03:21   #15
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Ya just think, that basically happens every time you hit full auto on that gun.

on both semi and full?

Augs like to half cycle often when using semi. Its just odd that it would jam up that badly.

I took out my 2 stage trigger on all my augs. Once the trigger mech get warn down, getting semi to work all the time was a pain. Without the 2 stage, its better, just pull till semi goes off.
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TM Steyr Aug A2 (Phantom) : TM Steyr Aug A2 (RIS) : Aftermath Steyr A2 (CQB) : APS Aug A1 H-Bar - 10 Low-Cap, 4 Mid-Cap and 2 Real-Cap Mags
TM/KJW G26 - 4 Mags
KJW KP-05 Hi-Capa - 2 Regular and 5 Extended Mags
Crossman S36P DEAD - 14 Shells
Old Buy/Sell Feedback

Last edited by lord_sid; March 7th, 2012 at 03:25..
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