TM P226 upgrades - stock frame

[Spike]

I am a GBB scrub, please be gentle.

So my plan is to be a SAW gunner for Nightfall IV, and since I no longer have an LMG that can use semi auto, indoors I'll be limited to my sidearm. Having shelved my original idea of getting a compact SMG, I decided to just pimp out my TM P226R. I want to keep the original body, since the light plastic slide gives all of the efficiency.

I want to bump the FPS as much as I can since it only shoots ~260 at the moment. I already changed the stock piston head to a PDI because when I got the gun stock, it couldn't even shoot off a whole mag with one gas charge.

I have a KJW threaded barrel on it, so my barrel could be a little bit longer. I was thinking about putting a PDI 6.01 112mm length barrel vs the stock 97mm in there since it shouldn't stick out any from the outer barrel.

My issue is when reading about FPS increasing upgrades, people warn about using the stock slide. Is there a part on the sig that is known to break? I want it to shoot as well as possible but it also needs to be reliable.

Or should I shelve it and grab a metal KJW 226 to do this with?
Or or, should I pimp out my WE G17 instead?

[Drakker]

To increase power a PDI 6.01 barrel should give you a boost of 15-25 FPS right there. A Nineball 6.00 power barrel might give you a few more FPS, although the difference will likely be slim. Assuming you are using 0.20g BBs, 260 FPS is kind of low for a P226, it might have a leak somewhere. Since you already replaced the piston head, it would be wise to replace the hop-up rubber too. If you want maximum power the Nineball purple rubber is the best, although if the hop-up rubber is the problem, any good rubber will give you a large FPS boost.

Also, it is possible that there is a problem with the mag release, that causes the mag to sit a bit low, causing a leak. If you press the mag up in the mag well with your hand while shooting, does the FPS increase? If not, maybe the nozzle is cracked, causing a leak. To test this, take the loading nozzle out and gently bend it and put pressure on it in different places. If there is a crack, you should see it that way.

One last thing that could help is using a stronger hammer spring. Older/weaker/worn hammer springs won't release as much gas when they hit the valve. Using a stronger hammer spring will lower gas efficiency, but it does improve FPS a bit (or a lot if the one you are using is too weak).

With these upgrades, you shouldn't have to worry about the plastic slide, it can handle it (my 1911 and hi-capas can handle it just fine, and I have never heard that the P226 is any different).

[e-luder]

260 with what weight BB's? seems like a stupid wuestion but just covering all bases here. Normally the Marui 226s shoot at 280-305 ish with 20s and propane at least with my stock ones.
260 is a bit low if on 20s. The issue can stem from your magazkne blowoff valve. That valve is unique because you can control how much gas you want to expel. It only has only ONE hole. If the valve is rotated, the hole can be obstructed or it can even be fully closed!!! Make sure the hole is fully open facing the magazine rubber?

Replacing your piston head wont really increase your FPS.
Although, it does help with gas efficiency.

If you want increased FPS, you'll need a hi-flow blowoff valve, a hi-flow floating valve, a good bucking, a strengthened hammer spring and a tightbore.

You'll also need to find a steel firing pin. It's one of the weak points on the 226 for every platform ( they're all based on one design ).

also, you'll need to uprate your takedown lever. Somewhere down the line, they break. Not really a concern in the short run but for the long.

Arbitrarily, a few spare loading muzzles couldnt hurt either should the gas pressure deteriorate what you have now. You could do an aluminum loading muzzle like me... cause...im baaawwsss...and it's my birthday.

If your terribly worried about your slide, shorten the stroke. You can make a makeshift spring buffer from stuff around the house. lol.

other than that, errthang should be good.
Now where's my donair for this post?

[Styrak]

e-luder why won't you answer meeeeeeeeeee.

Spike, low fps could also be a symptom of an old/damaged nozzle or old/worn out gas route rubbers. I've replaced rubbers on Hicapa and Sig mags, and FPS immediately jumped up as it creates a better seal with the nozzle. Nineball (purple ones) makes some great gas route rubbers.

[Spike]

I will try another magazine/holding the mag in place. I never thought try another mag... I have 6.

Funny thing is, the gun was purchased new, and has only seen a couple hundred rounds. I brought 3 in from another retailer, 2 E1s and 1 E2, and the E2 works perfectly, both E1s had to have their piston heads replaced.


www.pizzatown.ca not sure how far they deliver, though.

[Spike]

Tried a couple of mags, and a different hop up rubber. Mags didn't change anything, new rubber yielded a 10fps increase.

[BioRage]

Time to upgrade to a M9, insurgency styleeeeeeeeeeee,

vat about dis

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/nine-ball...l#.VMlDHE3QcyQ

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/guarder-v...l#.VMlD2k3QcyR

You could go full Insurgency night ops style and get a silencer and extend your inner barrel to a super duper long secondary and put a super dupe cool 4x scope on your p226 for indoor sniping pew pew.

Edit:

Did some quick g00gling and from 2008...

Posted 05 May 2008 - 11:34 AM

Do NOT run the Guarder 150% hammer spring or recoil spring, do NOT.

I have seen entire hammer mechanisms destroyed. On my guns I run 150% Proud recoil springs (RCC 130% are better) with stock hammer springs and mine shoot 340+.

The PDI barrel will break 320 fps. Another good mod is the SD CNC Valve Knocker but it requires a bit more experience to fit effectively.

I like this for a decent, good shooting, TM P226 with a plastic body:

PDI 6.01mm Tight Bore (97mm, if you run a threaded outer barrel you can usually hid a 112mm)
Nine Ball Air Seal
Nine Ball Dyna Piston
SD Valve Knocker

And that is it. The power is in the tight bore. The Dyna increases over all efficiency, and the SD Valve Knocker is a durability upgrade.

[juicy]

What mags are you running, Spike: TM P226R split style, TM E2 with flat baseplate, KJ, WE split, WE flat baseplate?

FPS upgrades such as tightbore barrel and hop up bucking are (as stated) a simple way to up your muzzle velocity, and they won't cause you any real reliability concerns.

High flow valves, upgraded springs and such are where things might start to break - these are mainly marginal gains to performance and won't be as noticeable in terms of pure FPS as just improving air seal.

I believe that a 112mm inner barrel may protrude 1-2mm from a threaded barrel when slide is back - though I've never run a P226 with threaded barrel before, and this is just me guessing from fooling around with TM-pattern G17 and threaded barrels.

On the note of WE G17, some of the newer WE models have differences internally from the original Marui design that they are based on, in order to make them run better with the heavier metal slides. This so happens to make them run better in the cold too. That being said, you may have to deal with cracking nozzles every now and then since only the later batches of WE GBB seem to have better nozzle material and it's luck of the draw at which batch of their more popular models that you're going to get, even at a distributor level.

[Spike]

They're standard P226R mags
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=713

[Sequential]

First off, buying those valves aren't the greatest idea. The first thing you can do is remove the current valve inside your magazine and dremel out the area to make the outlet larger just like the ones seen in the HFV.

Start with the upgrades like a Nine Ball 6.00mm Power Inner Barrel. Then slowly work on the blowback unit. Upgrade to a light weight bbu, that will increase gas efficiency, the BBU will also be a better seal to the nozzle thus increasing a bit of FPS.

[QKLee11]

Originally Posted by Spike

They're standard P226R mags
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=713

Thinking about adding a TM 226 to my collection to Spike but...but....
Bridgewater has a Pizza store that actually delivers lmfao

[juicy]

IIRC the E2 mags hold a bit more gas than the P226R mags (different construction).

BBU alone for the P226 won't change anything to do with seal to nozzle - only option for a lightweight one that I'm aware of is the UAC, which does not feature an integrated piston head nor does it include one. As mentioned, lightweight BBU can make a big difference on gas consumption.

[beta678]

Out of curiosity, would most of the recommendations for the TM P226 in this thread apply to the KJW P226 as well?

I picked up a KJW P226 on an impulse buy recently (sorta weird as I only really like M&P's). Read through a couple of threads but I haven't really found that much solid info out there at the moment, still need to do more research.

But from what I've seen, it seems the KJW is pretty much 99% compatible w/ TM parts if I'm not mistaken... though I've been wondering if the Guarder kits for the TM are compatible with the KJW (haven't found any confirmation) as I'm not a fan of the railed frame, prefer the slick navy frame for the P226 which I'll need to source from somewhere if its compatible and I decide to keep it.

[Spike]

Well for shits and giggles I tried a brand new bottle of propane.... 280fps

I really don't gas gun very well.

[Styrak]

LOL, yuuuuuup.