GBBR Upgrades?

[jibbs]

Hey everyone,

I'm pretty new to the Gas scene With my WE m4 Raptor.

Used this new toy on the weekend and loved it. It shot great and was Fair on the reliability scale. Where did it fault you may ask? a the constant accuracy.

So I'm wondering as I'm use to AEG hop up systems, what is there I can do to this to have the gun shoot straighter more consistent.?

as well as any other very useful upgrades I should consider would be apreciated thank you again!

[Floreos]

I can't speak for the m4 so I don't know exactly what needs to happen on that guy but here is what I can tell you about my scar.

1) shoot it!

The more you shoot it the better it gets. Don't worry about the barrel and changing the hop up just keep shooting it took about 5000 shots before it got really good.

2) tooth floss the bucking

There's a lot of gas power coming out of it. Don't let it escape.

3) glue the nub to the adjustment piece

The nub moves around slightly shot to shot. Gluing it up there with dramatically improve the hop consistency.

3) proper lubeing

Now what I'm going to tell you is not what most people are going to tell you. Most sillicon lube is absolute crap.

http://www.mec.ca/product/5039-747/s...-light-grease/

Go get some of this stuff and use it everywhere in the gun. It's safe. Don't worry about it just use it. This is one of the best paintball lubes. People like it more than dow33 which is one of the only sillicon lubes I recommend. And it will last year's.

Don't use green gas in your mags. Use propain and lube the seals with the slickoleum as mentioned above. The seals probably only need to be lubed once ever few months. However the valve which gets hit by the fireing pin can get lubed once every couple outings. It's the only thing that moves in the mag other than the fill valve. Just worry about that one and that is it!

Here is what I've done with the nosel o-ring. You may not want to do this. I found the seal between the nosel and bolt carrier is extremely bad so I used some dow 55 which slightly swells O-rings for a better seal.

Just having all that done to my scar has made it dramatically better. Unfortunately it's just shy of aeg accuracy and consistency and that is strictly due to the property's of propain. Which draws me to the the last point.

4) Use hpa with a high capacity mag mod. That will get you to the aeg consistency and accuracy. Until this is done I don't think you will find any advantage extending your barrel or changing the bucking.(stock bucking is actually quite good)


Edit: Also do the jb weld hammer mod . The pins like to fall out of the hammer.

[ThunderCactus]

If the silicone oil you dropped in the mag gets onto the hop rubber, it'll cause serious inconsistency. Don't overlube the gas system.

[Floreos]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

If the silicone oil you dropped in the mag gets onto the hop rubber, it'll cause serious inconsistency. Don't overlube the gas system.

I'd rather he not put any and just do it by hand.

[Kungpow]

Originally Posted by Floreos

I can't speak for the m4 so I don't know exactly what needs to happen on that guy but here is what I can tell you about my scar.

1) shoot it!

The more you shoot it the better it gets. Don't worry about the barrel and changing the hop up just keep shooting it took about 5000 shots before it got really good.

2) tooth floss the bucking

There's a lot of gas power coming out of it. Don't let it escape.

3) glue the nub to the adjustment piece

The nub moves around slightly shot to shot. Gluing it up there with dramatically improve the hop consistency.

3) proper lubeing

Now what I'm going to tell you is not what most people are going to tell you. Most sillicon lube is absolute crap.

http://www.mec.ca/product/5039-747/s...-light-grease/

Go get some of this stuff and use it everywhere in the gun. It's safe. Don't worry about it just use it. This is one of the best paintball lubes. People like it more than dow33 which is one of the only sillicon lubes I recommend. And it will last year's.

Don't use green gas in your mags. Use propain and lube the seals with the slickoleum as mentioned above. The seals probably only need to be lubed once ever few months. However the valve which gets hit by the fireing pin can get lubed once every couple outings. It's the only thing that moves in the mag other than the fill valve. Just worry about that one and that is it!

Here is what I've done with the nosel o-ring. You may not want to do this. I found the seal between the nosel and bolt carrier is extremely bad so I used some dow 55 which slightly swells O-rings for a better seal.

Just having all that done to my scar has made it dramatically better. Unfortunately it's just shy of aeg accuracy and consistency and that is strictly due to the property's of propain. Which draws me to the the last point.

4) Use hpa with a high capacity mag mod. That will get you to the aeg consistency and accuracy. Until this is done I don't think you will find any advantage extending your barrel or changing the bucking.(stock bucking is actually quite good)


Edit: Also do the jb weld hammer mod . The pins like to fall out of the hammer.

Tooth floss? What happened to Teflon tape? I you want to buy green gas go ahead, there is nothing wrong with Pre-lubed gas. White-Lithium Grease is more affordable... same thing goes with Super Lube. You can shim/lube the seals if your experiencing gas loss. I am currently making a HPA mag with a coupled High Cap Lonex AEG Mag. If you want consistency AEG or HPA are the way to go.

[Floreos]

Teflon tape doesnt work aswell as toothfloss. Teflon tape works better on things like threads where its shoved into a tight space. Toothfloss will act kind of like a hose clamp in an engine.

Again not saying it doesnt work. Its just better for this specific application.

I dont really know why youre giving this white litheum advice. Its a inferior lube especially for a bolt carrier application. Slickoleum is 18 bucks for 10oz it will last arguably for the rest of anyones airsoft career if they use it every single time they play with it and easily available in Canada where as super lube is hard to get your hands on.

Sure you can use green gas. But know it WILL affect your shot consistency. You're putting lube down the barrel to keep the 1 o-ring that moves lubed. And it's more expensive so I don't see the point.

[jibbs]

Hey guys so ive been hearing a lot of the same things obviously keeping the gun oiled / lubed

today I took a peak into the hop up system so I gotta ask the stock bucking seemed to have a nub in it so it makes me assume flat hopping will do nothing. I seem to be getting a good grasp of it any more advice is welcome I will glue down the hop up nub and try to figure out the toothfloss idea. Thanks alot everyone.

[Kungpow]

Originally Posted by Floreos

Teflon tape doesnt work aswell as toothfloss. Teflon tape works better on things like threads where its shoved into a tight space. Toothfloss will act kind of like a hose clamp in an engine.

Again not saying it doesnt work. Its just better for this specific application.

I dont really know why youre giving this white litheum advice. Its a inferior lube especially for a bolt carrier application. Slickoleum is 18 bucks for 10oz it will last arguably for the rest of anyones airsoft career if they use it every single time they play with it and easily available in Canada where as super lube is hard to get your hands on.

Sure you can use green gas. But know it WILL affect your shot consistency. You're putting lube down the barrel to keep the 1 o-ring that moves lubed. And it's more expensive so I don't see the point.

So you prefer to wrap the floss around the inner barrel and hop up for a better seal? I guess that would work. Why is Lithium grease inferior? Home Hardwear sells Super-Lube. Yes, Green Gas is more expensive, and propane is a cost efficient option. The objective of Green Gas is a to lube all the seals in the gas system. "You can do it manually however."
And I can see it effecting accuracy, especially if you over oil and the hop up bucking absorbs it.

[ThunderCactus]

Floss seals the rubber in place
Teflon tape pressures it into a seal once you insert it into the hop chamber
Same effect, different method.

Green gas is mostly overkill. Grossly overpriced for no advantage.
It really is only 3 or 4 orings you need to lube, and you only need to lube them every 500 shots or so. They REALLY dont need constant lubrication.
My ksc usp compact is at least 6 years old, lubed it maybe 4 times. Works just fine. Replaced all the seals in it last year, gained a whopping 10fps. Run on propane in summer and MAP in winter. Only thing to break on the gun was the mags started leaking cause I left a full load of MAP in them at 5 degrees and let them warm up to room temp. Overpressure.

[jibbs]

MAP?

[BobbyDangerous]

My gun is dry. I only use silicone oil in the propane. The mags lubricate the gun. If I do use silicone I use 2000wt on the nozzle guides and that's it. I out a little lithium Greece on the buffer retainer so the BCG slides smoothly over it.

Upgrades

WE M4
RA Tech BCG new one with 2 bolts
RA Tech Hop Up
Maple Leaf 75* Bucking
Angry Gun Inner Barrel

Everything else is stock

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by jibbs

MAP?

The yellow cans of MAP gas. Bit higher pressure than propane, more stable in the cold. Usually allows you to run a pistol down to 0 or -5

[BobbyDangerous]

Yeah but don't get caught using it now on feild. It will pound

[ThunderCactus]

That's what chrono's are for

[BobbyDangerous]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

That's what chrono's are for

Yeah but no NPAS is gonna bring down the FPS in the summer with MAPP gas