Need to borrow a drill press

[toxoviper]

Hi,

I just got my upgraded spring for my G-spec, but the upgrade requires me to drill out a in in the cylinder. To drill this properly, it's a must to use a drill press.... sadly I do not have one. I need help.

I was wondering if anybody knew a place that would rent a drill press for a simple job. Or maybe you know somebody who would let me use theirs. I don't mind paying.

I'm located in Richmond, BC and I can travel around the greater Vancouver area. :-)

Thanks!

[Man Solo]

Have you considered just shipping the part to someone? There are any number of gunsmiths/gun techs that would be willing.

[GraveTech]

You don't need a drill press, you just need a rotary tool and you need to take your time.

[Zero]

Agreed. I did mine freehand with a dremel. Works fantastic.

And its way easier to find someone with a dremel than a drill press I would think.

[Falcon_MB]

Dunno if the schools in your area have auto/metal shops. Back in the day I'd have a home project that required a drill press or ban saw or whatever and just asking a shop teacher nicely at a high school might got it done quick.

[Red Ghost]

Yes, a Dremel may work for a lot of people, but there are a lot of people [not saying you're one of them toxoviper] that are either not that mechanically inclined, or just simply don't have steady enough hands. I myself, although mechanically inclined, would prefer the drill press over the dremel.

[toxoviper]

Yeah, I was thinking of using my power drill, but I was afraid that I might scratch up the cylinder... which by then I would totally regret doing the process by hand.

Luckily, somebody PMed me offering to help. Such nice people you meet in airsoft!

[MadMax]

Use a file and file two crossed lines with the corner of the file in an "X" so your drillbit doesn't wander around the round surface of the cylinder. Start with a small hole around 1/16" to pilot your final hole diameter (I'm guessing around 1/8"). Do not increase hole dia in very small increments.

Brass is soft so drillbits can grab and pull the part aggressively. Drilling in small increments invites this. I suggest stuffing a hunk of wood or at least stuff a wad of paper folded over a dozen times (12 layers or a bunch more) in case this happens so the drillbit does not mar the other side. Use a drill press vise to secure the cylinder to prevent the part from helixing upwards.

Contrary to intuition, it's better to spin the chuck fast when drilling brass with a sharp bit. A fast bit (not super dremel fast, but high speed on a drill press) will cut thinner chips and leave a thin final chip when it breaks through. If the last chip is thin, it has less strength to grab the drillbit and will more likely shear instead of riding the helix flute up.

Use sharp bits to reduce the upset bur left on the inside. A dull bit will mash a heavier burr into your hole.

A burr left on the inside of the cyl will nick your piston oring. I suggest running the tip of an xacto (not an Olfa box cutter which has a completely different tip angle) around the inside edge of the hole to clear away the sharp burr. Scrub the hole from the inside with extra fine steel wool. You may lightly scratch the inside of the cyl, but you will probably not damage the oring seal with the slight finishing. Wash out all loose burrs and steel wool bits scrupulously before reasembling your Gspec.

If you want, practice on a hunk of 3/4" copper pipe. It's softer, but if you've never drilled a metal tube before, you don't have to risk your Gspec cyl. There is also brass tubing at your local hobby store to goof around with. I think you should be able to find up to 3/4" there.

[toxoviper]

Madmax,

Thanks for the tips. I appreciate them. I might start doing the upgrades tomorrow