Question about G36 quality.

[Battle Sight Zero]

Hello,

I'm new to airsoft and looking to buy my first gun. I've narrowed my search to a SCAR-L or a G36. I've been leaning towards the G36, but some reviews I've read have described issues with the gun. I was hoping someone could describe or clear up these gun issues. Also, I was hoping I could get some insight to both of these guns and see which one players like better and why?

Any information I could get would be helpful.
Thanks.

[Muffin]

You may want to include what makes your interested in, that will make it easier for us to help you.

[Mr. G36!]

What issues are you referring to? I have a TM G36C, and modded it into a full-length. Most of the internals and externals have been totally replaced, and I haven't had a single major issue yet. I say major, because I have had the small hiccup here and there, but nothing that wasn't caused by me. Aside from Tokyo Marui, Jing Gong, Classic Army, and Star make G36s, and a few other lower-quality manufacturers as well, so if you describe these issues you've heard of, it'd help.

[SHÖCK]

What issues are you talking about specifically? I've seen and played with them all.

The biggest issue I can think of with some of them are that they have a plastic outer barrel assembly that will sometimes crack or break where the hop-up unit connects but if you don't modify your gun and never open it up too much, this will rarely happen. This thing is flimsy though and I've seen them contribute to air leaks resulting in 60 FPS lost. Some guns like CA have a metal assembly from factory. I had a JG G36 that had a cut-off lever that wore itself down somehow, breaking semi and full auto but I've never seen this happen elsewhere, normally G36 v3 gearboxes are among the best and more robust of all standard gearboxes. TMs are reliable at low FPS but come with nylon bushings. KWA probably has the best G36 gearbox from factory complete with 8 or 9mm bearing bushings and bearing spring guide and 400 FPS out of the box. CA has the best externals, but gearbox internals could use upgrading. Star good also for externals. I believe CA and STAR are the only ones that have nylon-fibre bodies instead of textured ABS plastic. SRC is decent as well but I've had an SRC G36 plastic orange spring guide explode on me. SRC has unique parts like an improved unique mag release system and it's the only one that comes stock with a full metal charging handle including the front handle. Gearboxes are interchangable between the ABS bodied guns, but most of the TM clones won't work properly in a CA grip because of tighter tolerances, it will misfeed. None of the above have proper trades aside from TM, and STAR coming close. TM is also the one one that comes standard with the clear low-cap with visible bullets for realism. The rest come with solid plastic high-caps, with the SRC even coming with a smoked hi-cap which looks wierd since you can see the bbs.

Every brand has it's +/-'s

[surebet]

What brands?

[Thenooblord]

the only real issue with the G36 in general (any brand) is that the front assembly that holds the hopup sometimes cracks, other than that they're pretty solid, I cant speak for the scar, ive never worked on one

[Rock 'N' Roll Outlaw]

We can't tell you which one to get, as it comes down to personal preference. One of the only factors that makes AEGs different other than looks is the make and generation (aside from use by previous owners if used, etc...).

[SuperCriollo]

the fire selector is a pain in the ass in almost all the G36. the battery ubication too.

[SHÖCK]

Originally Posted by SuperCriollo

the fire selector is a pain in the ass in almost all the G36. the battery ubication too.

Fire Selector is best on CA's I've found since it has a ball bearing and not just a plastic grub head. But I have had a CA selector fall right off in a game losing the ball bearing and spring.

And what the heck is ubication?

[Rock 'N' Roll Outlaw]

It ubicates the battery.......duh

[Battle Sight Zero]

Hey,

I've been looking into the Tokyo Marui and Classic army G36, and Classic Army SCAR-L.
The G36 problem i was referring to was the cracking around the hop-up, i'm now wondering how common this cracking is. Also, if anyone who has personal experience with both of these guns could they tell me which was better for durability. Both guns support the look I'm going for so durability will be the deciding factor.
I've defiantly narrowed my options to these two guns I just need to decide which.

Thank you.

[Thenooblord]

The hopup will only break if you do something wrong, I broke mine while installing a flash hider, unknown to me the inner diameter of the flashider was smaller than the outer diameter of the inner barrel, so it caught on it and twisted the hopup off, and even then a bit of superglue fixed it all up

[theguy]

I broke my hop-up tabs on m G36 too, but its not a big deal, replacements ones are like 20 bucks.

[SHÖCK]

Originally Posted by Battle Sight Zero

Hey,

I've been looking into the Tokyo Marui and Classic army G36, and Classic Army SCAR-L.
The G36 problem i was referring to was the cracking around the hop-up, i'm now wondering how common this cracking is. Also, if anyone who has personal experience with both of these guns could they tell me which was better for durability. Both guns support the look I'm going for so durability will be the deciding factor.
I've defiantly narrowed my options to these two guns I just need to decide which.

Thank you.

That will basically never happen on a classic army. That part is metal where it is plastic on other guns. The tabs on the plastic hop-up chamber are slightly beefier too. You can also buy this part separately sometimes. I've put one of these into a JG and it solved barrel/hop-up mating issues, improved the air seal, and made everything more stable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123

[Mr. G36!]

The G36 problem i was referring to was the cracking around the hop-up, i'm now wondering how common this cracking is.

Never happened to me, and I've done just about everything to mine, good and bad. I kinda think that, what with how the gun's put together, you'd either have to do something to it on purpose, have a REALLY rough spill with it, or just plain wear it out to the point that you'd be replacing it anyway. That section is well protected, so it's not likely to break under normal circumstances. This is the TM I'm talking about, from my own experience.