FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[Wepeel]

Has anyone tried the "A+ Studio Airsoft Technical Knockout System Upgrade Kit"?

I'm curious how the gas efficiency is affected with one of those.

Are there any compensators that look like this one in the picture for sale anywhere? Or do I have to make it myself somehow?

http://www.sviguns.com/largepics/349.jpg

[TheDuShen]

I recently bought the original Tokyo Marui Muzzle Housing (blow back unit) for the hi-capa 5.1 and didn't realize it doesnt come with some parts.

anyone know where i can find these parts? Specifically H51-15 and H51-16

[apilar]

could try uncomapny

go to parts - marui original parts - look under m1911a1 - those parts should be the same for the housing, but might have different model numbers -- could be gm1-13 on the 1911 model?

worth a look

edit: here are links to the hi capa exploded diagram VS the m1911 - those parts 'look' the same.

1911a1 - http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rtsDiagram.jpg

hi capa - http://www.co2airguns.net/collection...%20Diagram.jpg

[TheDuShen]

Thanks apilar.

Ya i saw that in the uncompany website but wasnt sure if they are the same.

Do you know if there is even a fuction for these pieces? Will the blowback unit still operate the same without these two pieces?

[apilar]

I honestly don't know the function of that piece. I think I remember reading or hearing something about it just being a sort of 'filler' for the loading nozzle so it doesn't have any play up and down.

That being said, I also remember either reading or hearing that it isn't a super necessary part. And without it, the gun should still function fine.

I wouldn't 100% take my word on that because I would hate to cause you more problems if that part is very necessary after all.
Maybe someone else can chime in.

[famidrive]

Alright...trying this thread to see if there's anyone who could address this.
I thought it would be an issue with the leaf spring, but after stripping it,
testing it out...and doing what others suggest might fix the problem after
watching videos on youtube, I'm starting to doubt. What could be wrong?

I even tried a brand new leaf spring and the problem was still there.

[famidrive]

So far I know it's NOT any of the following:

Hammer strut.
Valve knocker.
Leaf spring.
Hammer spring.

I took er out today for a spin and it's driving me nuts. I can push all I want on the trigger without anything happening. But as soon as I cock the hammer back the slightest after each shot - it's good to go.

Any takers?

[Kos-Mos]

That's not the sear. Sear is the part under the MIDDLE prong.
That's the disconnector lever.

It should slide perfectly up/down.
If you put a bit or pressure on the hammer and it goes up, it can be the hammer pivot post that is cracked.
The post is used to hold both halfs of the rear frame assembly together (with a screw).
The can crack at the very base, making the hammer tweak to the right under the pressure of the spring and "lock" the disconnetor lever.

Try this:
Fire as normal.
When it "locks", take the slide and push it hard towards the frame/grip, with a slight twist to the right (clockwise). If you can hear a faint "tick", that's the disconnector snapping into place.

Look to bent/cracked hammer post or right-side midframe.
The plastic frames ALWAYS crack across the right-side grip hole and cause this.

[famidrive]

Oh yes that's right! I'd better go and edit that text. Very useful information,
I'll check that out asap! Although it'd suck if the lower frame would be
broken already haha. If it is...well I guess it's time for a steel one.
Thanks much for the reply!

EDIT:

Tried it, disassembled it and tried it again. Didn't look nor feel like it was broken.
Pulling the slide back several times seems to work at times. Sometimes not.
Most of the time the tiny pressure at the hammer after pulling the slide back to
load a bb works.

[Styrak]

Is this a metal frame? Or one of those WE plastic frames?

[famidrive]

Originally Posted by Styrak

Is this a metal frame? Or one of those WE plastic frames?

This is a stock TM cast aluminum frame. It's not 3 weeks old out of the box yet.

[kar120c]

My TM Desert Warrior (1/2 Meu and 1/2 HiCapa 4.3) left stock for now, works very well but with an issue.
The hop up seems to be not very able to hop the bb's.
To obtain a straight shot with 0,20 bb's I must rotate the wheel 3/4 hop and it is almost impossible to shot straight with 0,23 or 0.25 bb's .
I have another TM Pistol, the Detonics which shots very well up to 0,25 bb's so I think my DW has some issue.

Taken apart all the hop up system I haven't found any visible defect so I cleaned and rebuilt.

I think that the issue should be the oil of the piston lubing or the oil of the green gas I use that "lube" the hop rubber

So this is an Upgrade Modifications forum, what parts should I buy to obtain more straight shots? My idea is to buy an new ho up rubber but I don't know what should be better for this pistol and a precision barrel but I don' know what diameter, 6.01 should be right?
All, leaving the pistol "full plastic" outside, I'm beginning to appreciate the lightness of a plastic slide in winter

[apilar]

If your bbs are not hoping it is probably from the hop unit. Over time the arm that depresses on the hop rubber to give hop gets bent and weakened. Take apart the hop unit and remove the tension arm. Bent it 'tighter' so that it presses the hop rubber more- giving more hop up. Also when you re-install the tension arm make sure the hop wheel is set to 0 or 'no hop'. This should give you more hop with less wheel turning.

[kar120c]

Well I'll tra tour suggestion. The pistol il almost new so sound strange that this arm may be bent.

Originally Posted by apilar

If your bbs are not hoping it is probably from the hop unit. Over time the arm that depresses on the hop rubber to give hop gets bent and weakened. Take apart the hop unit and remove the tension arm. Bent it 'tighter' so that it presses the hop rubber more- giving more hop up. Also when you re-install the tension arm make sure the hop wheel is set to 0 or 'no hop'. This should give you more hop with less wheel turning.

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Considering the amount of parts you'd have to replace or source, that would probably be more prudent.

As an fyi, when doing a full gun conversion like these Hurricane kits, I personally prefer to use the Night Warrior as the starting base, as it's a bit cheaper than the MEU. Part of the reason for the MEU's high price, is because of the licensed Novak rear sights. If you're swapping them out anyways in a conversion like this, there's no point in paying for that.

The only thing with the Night Warrior, is that it has a silver barrel bushing, which is easy to replace with one of the piles of aftermarket replacements available on the market. OEM ones shouldn't be hard to find either (I have plenty).
Also, the rear sight may need a slight bit of modification to fit the standard blowback unit of the Night Warrior.

I gave up to upgrade to full metal and keep my DW with stock slide and frame so I noticed the in winter a light plastic pistol works better. The only thing I wish to do is to add weight to my pistol because installing Hogues grip I had to remove the grip weights so I thought to install a steel outer barrel.
An outher barrel is not moving during the slide action so the lightness of the plastic slide should be untouched. My question is if there are (HiCapa 4.3) steel barrel fitting the stock slide of the DW without issue?