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50+ rps build

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Old January 20th, 2012, 15:44   #16
IggysPiggy
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
I also have never had an issue making almost any mag feed even my dsg, I prefer the cheap pmag nockoffs that comes with the knight cqb's little modding and they feed flawless. I have never had to rely on electric mags and find that it takes more to make them feed the proper speed, I would also recomend a 7 metal tooth steel rack and not just a 1 or 3 tooth one, unless your going dsg then id suggest full metal rack, AOE corrctions huge so modifiying the piston becomes a must. wire thickness must be upgraded but you dont need to go crazy just make sure its QUALITY wire. dont assume a lighter spring will make it faster as you must take into account piston return time (the faster it shoots the bigger the spring needed to not make your gearbox eat itself).
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Old January 20th, 2012, 15:53   #17
Moonschlagen
 
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Ahh that's some good info posted IggysPiggy. Gives me a nice reference when I start going for a high ROF cqb gun.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 15:58   #18
IggysPiggy
 
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As a suggestion try to stay away from turbo motors they are harder to build a highspeed out of, and SHS 13:1's WILL NOT last on 120 and up springs, so if you want a high rps high fps the only smart solution is RiotSC gears, doesnt have to be dsg gears but he makes the best there is out there and the price is on par with the big name brands.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 17:00   #19
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thank you very much IggysPiggy that was great. i will surely follow your directions thanks
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Old January 20th, 2012, 19:42   #20
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u either run a strong spring with a strong battey or short stroke ur gears and piston hehe but as ppl said go to airsoft mechanics the forum, lots of gun docs with actual extensive engineering background and stuff there, those guys actually do the math and are pretty intense!!
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Old January 20th, 2012, 20:03   #21
R.I.T.Z
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tip on the box mag.
if you are going to run it on lipo, you are going to need to rebuild the internals with something stronger if you want any longevity out of it.
they run off cheap little hobby motors and crappy plastic gears
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 10:19   #22
Whiskey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IggysPiggy View Post
As a suggestion try to stay away from turbo motors they are harder to build a highspeed out of, and SHS 13:1's WILL NOT last on 120 and up springs, so if you want a high rps high fps the only smart solution is RiotSC gears, doesnt have to be dsg gears but he makes the best there is out there and the price is on par with the big name brands.
Good old 98 (xt) powerhouse tuning, eh jess. I think 90% of techs in Canada would be surprised if they seen half the stuff we turn out of that shop lol, and yes Riots gears are amazing, even the non DSG sets work great and are nearly indestructible. Lastly, the SHS 13:1's will work fine with a M120 spring ...if they are short stroked 3 or 4 teeth ...cough 50 RPS non DSG cough
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Last edited by Whiskey; January 22nd, 2012 at 11:34..
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 11:08   #23
Whiskey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
sector clip for maximum loading time on your air nozzle
and use REALLY lightweight gears. Lighter gears carry less momentum, it'll be MUCH easier on your motor to get that initial speed. It will also save you a few pinion gears, if the motor takes off too fast and the gears still aren't moving, the pinion gear is a common failure point.
Upgrade to large gauge wiring, as big as you can go, like 12 gauge. And absolutely mandatory to have a MOSFET switch at that voltage.

I'd recommend using polycarb piston instead of full steel rack, you're highly likely to do a few pre-engagement hits while exploring the setup. Better to shred a piston than a gearset.
And I recommend marui pistons, at least to do your initial setup. They're cheap and surprisingly VERY tough.

At 50rps you need EVERYTHING to work 100% perfectly. Even your tappet, anti reversal latch and cutoff lever springs come into play.
I'd say the biggest problem you'll have is getting it to feed reliably, even with a box mag.
And use bushings, bearings are likely to fail at high speed, bushings are stable at any rpm.
Sector chips are a great little gimmick, though I'd suggest a custom tappet plate for longevity (ie: custom build the profile on the tappet that contacts the sector gear Cam, this can be done with ABS or PVC strips glued to the tappet plate), this has the knock on effect of adding life to you're tappet plate too, as the ABS/PVC is a more durable material than Nylon.
DSG set ups will eat a Marui piston in no time, stay away from it!, DSG's need a steel racked piston, if pre engagement is a problem there are lots of ways to tune around it. As far as bushings VS bearings, I would also recommend bushings, the harder the better, unless you have access to Kanzen or Modify ceramic bearings (8mm set ups only) as they can take the shit kick'n a DSG gives out, Iggypiggy can vouch for that and so can I.
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 11:44   #24
enemybrit
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IggysPiggy View Post
As a suggestion try to stay away from turbo motors they are harder to build a highspeed out of, and SHS 13:1's WILL NOT last on 120 and up springs, so if you want a high rps high fps the only smart solution is RiotSC gears, doesnt have to be dsg gears but he makes the best there is out there and the price is on par with the big name brands.
My SHS 13:1s are running on a m130 with bearings and a shs high torque motor. After 15 000 on a 11.1v the gears are still fine. Keep in mind these are the v2 set with the allen screws holding the sector gear together.

But, all in all, 13:1 gears on a high torque motor with over a m120 draw TONNES of amps. My motor draws 35 amps on a 7.4 and 38 amps on 11.1.
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 18:24   #25
Whiskey
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Originally Posted by enemybrit View Post
My SHS 13:1s are running on a m130 with bearings and a shs high torque motor. After 15 000 on a 11.1v the gears are still fine. Keep in mind these are the v2 set with the allen screws holding the sector gear together.

But, all in all, 13:1 gears on a high torque motor with over a m120 draw TONNES of amps. My motor draws 35 amps on a 7.4 and 38 amps on 11.1.
I'm a bit confused lol, how do you draw more amperage on a 11.1v battery as opposed to a 7.4v? battery (my only guess would be cell quality among the two packs), I'm just curious. I'm also kind of having a bit of a laugh, about half a year ago, people thought I was full of crap when I stated some of my set ups can draw 35+ amps, good to see someone else pushing the envelope with a high powered set up. I still laugh when people use torque up gears for M120 springs on the thought you actually need them, that's soo 2010 . Lastly, what kind of bearings are you using with you're set up?
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Last edited by Whiskey; January 22nd, 2012 at 20:49..
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 18:29   #26
enemybrit
 
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When I said bearings I mean on the spring guide and piston head. More amps are drawn with more voltage because of the increased rotational spin of the motor, and at x voltage the motor needs y amps to be able to fully saturate the core of the motor. The batteries are the same brand and discharge rating.
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