WE M4A1 CQB-R Which mods???

[T@NK]

as faras I know, you can use real steel parts on the following:
Upper (need modification to cut off some part)
buffer tube
stock
RIS/RAS
Forward assist button
charging handle
grip
dust cover
buffer

[Drake]

Also:
Receiver plate (e.g., Magpul ASAP etc)
Mag catch (minor modding may be required for smooth operation)
Barrel nut
Takedown pins
Castle Nut (buffer tube)

Also haven't tried myself but Qlong was telling me RS fire selectors will work, however some modding is required to some of the internals (with a potential of FUBARing parts if not done right), so safer sticking to airsoft parts unless absolutely necessary.

[turok_t]

Yes, all the above posts are correct, the following RS parts will work:

-RS fire selectors (mods to the auto sear, trigger, sear
-Rails
-Upper receiver Sets
-Flash hiders (rethreading of outer barrel required)
-Takedown pins
-Detents
-Detent springs
-Charging Handles (with mods)
-Pistol Grips
-Buffer Tubes
-Stocks
-Castle Nuts
-Delta Rings
-Antirotational Pins (mods to the lower receiver required)
-Magazine Catch
-Endplates
-Fire Safety detent and spring
-Recoil Buffers

For interals, I recommend these parts:

-CWI trigger set
-Ratech steel bolt + aluminum nozzle + steel nozzle guides
-Ratech fire pin and delayer







Real Steel Parts

Vltor Modular Upper receiver (MUR 1A)
Vltor 5-Position Receiver Extension Tube
Vltor Gas Block GB-2S
Magpul CTR stock Commercial Size (Black)
Magpul Enhanced Rubber Butt-Pad, (0.70")
Magpul MIAD Full Grip Kit (Black)
Magpul PMAGS (Black)
Gear Sector Hand Stop (Black)
BCMGUNFIGHTER Charging Handle w/ Mod 4 (MEDIUM) Latch 556
Troy OEM M4 Sling Mount
Troy Front Battle Sights with Tritium(Black)
Troy Rear Battle Sights with Tritium (Black)
Troy Rail Cover Full Length (Black)
Troy Rail Cover 3” (Black)
Troy Modular Combat Grip
Centurion Arms C4 Rail System 7”
Streamlight TLR-2
Eotech 552.A65/1 Holographic Sight
Norgon Ambi Magazine Catch
Battle Arms Development Ambidextrous Safety Selector (BADASS)
KNS Gen II Non-rotating Trigger/Hammer Pins (0.154”)
Daniel Defense Magazine Release Button
Daniel Defense Castle Nut
Daniel Defense AR-15 Front Pivot Pin
Daniel Defense AR-15 Rear Takedown Pin
Daniel Defense Magazine Catch Spring
Daniel Defense Selector Detent
Daniel Defense Selector Detent Spring
Daniel Defense Takedown & Pivot Pin Detent
Daniel Defense Takedown & Pivot Pint Spring
Daniel Defense Carbine H-Buffer Assembly
Unknown Real Steel Delta Nut

Airsoft Parts

CWI AW Forging Steel CNC Fire Control Unit for WE GBB
RA-Tech 6.01 300mm Inner Barrel (custom cut/crowned to 245mm)
RA-Tech CNC Firing Pin Base and Valve Locker WE GBBR
RA-Tech CNC Steel Bolt Carrier WE M4/M16 Open Bolt
RA-Tech Nozzle Guide for WE GBB M4 (Open Bolt System)
WE M4 Open Bolt Kit
King Arms Air Seal Chamber for Marui GBB Pistol / VSR
King Arms Noveske KX3 Flash Suppressor Steel Version (14mm CCW)
PMC Noveske 7” Outer Barrel
G&P DBAL Dual Laser Destinator and Illuminator
Mad Bull Surefire FA556 MINI 5" Silencer



Here are my links to help you:

.::::WE M4 Real Steel/Airsoft Build NOVEMBER 24, 2011 COMPLETE (last post)::::.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=122347

.::RA-Tech WE M4/M16 Steel Bolt Tutorial::.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=130612

.:::RA-Tech Versus CWI WE M4/M16 Steel Trigger Kits- Which To Buy?:::.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=132679

[m102404]

Aside from any mods for asthetic/cosmetic differences....

If you're starting with a new/current generation WE M4 Open Bolt, I would do:
- nothing

Drake nailed it:
"Eventually you may find thing you want to replace but you should use the gun first and figure it out for yourself. Just haphazardly doing mods will often create problems rather than fix any problem you didn't even have to begin with."

I wouldn't do anything to them until you've used it for a bit and seen what, if anything, you need to mod. Simply get gen 2 open bolt mags (or the VN mags).

After a period where you've worked in the gun a bit...then assess what you may/may not "need".
Items to consider:
- NPAS...RATech one is good...their hinged adjustment key is handy if you don't want to make your own. It works...it's reliable. (You may need this right away if you're gaming it in sub 350fps CQB stuff for the winter)
- new hopup rubber...I've got a nineball in one of mine now...works very well. I really like the A+ rubbers too. Teflon taping the hopup rubber ends with it being held quite securely in the hopup unit.
- tight bore barrel...they do show improvement but may have issues (mostly regarding overly lubed mags or mags that were recently resealed with gasket maker).
- either tape the inner barrel or insert an oring to keep it centered in the outer barrel...it will improve accuracy vs. stock (with or without a stock barrel).

After that...I'm not too thrilled about the rest of the "upgrade" parts. Some generalizations...
- RATech parts are made of quality materials...and they are machined very well. But, more than a rare blue moon, they require fitting/finishing to operate correctly (see the steel bolt mods as an example). And...I wouldn't feel the need to replace any of the stock internal/bolt parts until something breaks. I've seen/used/had a few that have basically gone until they've worn out...and replacing with stock parts is dirt cheap.
- if you replace one part...strongly consider replacing all the parts with the same manufacturer. A hard stainless steel cnc part with a sharp corner will eat through a stock pot metal part in a hurry. (You'll often hear...change one part at a time...DON'T with these, change the whole trigger group at once...or change the bolt/nozzle/guides at once....etc...)

Re. Real Steel parts...
You can use the plethora of listed real steel parts...I don't see why unless they can be had at the same prices as the AS stuff. Again...unless you want them for cosmetic/build reasons...they'll offer no technical improvement otherwise.

[falcon68]

I truly am impressed with the quantity of info you've all given me. I truly appreciate it. It looks like I'll hold off on any major mods for now and spend my money this winter on gas, BBs and targets!

One more thing, is there such a thing as carrying handle with a rail at the back to affix a red dot? I removed the stock carrying handle installed an A.C.M. Electro Red 4 Reticle Reflex Sight which works just fine except for one thing: I find it sits too low on the rifle and my stance does not feel right when looking through it. I'll keep looking on the web but can't seem to locate one. Do you know of another similar red dot sight which would ride higher?

[Drake]

That's a very low profile sight. You can get a riser, or switch to something like an Aimpoint or EOtech style reddot.

I have/use one of those sights; it's low but I find it okay. It could be your stance.

[MaybeStopCalling]

Originally Posted by falcon68

I truly am impressed with the quantity of info you've all given me. I truly appreciate it. It looks like I'll hold off on any major mods for now and spend my money this winter on gas, BBs and targets!

One more thing, is there such a thing as carrying handle with a rail at the back to affix a red dot? I removed the stock carrying handle installed an A.C.M. Electro Red 4 Reticle Reflex Sight which works just fine except for one thing: I find it sits too low on the rifle and my stance does not feel right when looking through it. I'll keep looking on the web but can't seem to locate one. Do you know of another similar red dot sight which would ride higher?

You mean like this?

[falcon68]

You're right, it is very low profile. I think I just found a quick fix...it's M4 Carry Handle Rail Adapter...screws tight on the existing rail. 20$....think I'll give one a try.

[falcon68]

Originally Posted by Green Synergy

You mean like this?

Very interesting...

[T@NK]

According to my experience, all the mods to the gun serves one purpose: make the gun function smooth in the long run, reduce any protential possibility of damage or malfunction.
thus I would suggest upgrade some possible parts:

1, real steel upper reciever

I 've read through some Tiwanese forums and some players had some broken upper situations caused by the air bubble in the early version stock metal upper recievers, a real steel will not have this kinda issue.

2, a steel trigger group

Either CWI or RA-Tech will do the job, they are much durable than the stock one, some ppl complain about the malfunction of the RA-Tech set, I guess that might just depends on person, mine RA-Tech trigger sets never have any issues through the passing year. get what is available for you.

what I won't suggest you to get:

1, RA-Tech steel BCG + Alluminum bolt

the RA-Tech steel BCG do more damage to the gun than bring in the good, unless the RA-tech make a steel CNCed hop up chamber, I won't use it anymore otherwise. the stock hop up chamber was shape-shifted due to the strong impact of the steel BCG in my gun, I was doing some major maintainance on my weapon last week and found out I couldn't the the hop up chamber out of the upper because of that. while my buddy's WE m4 has little wear on his hop up chamber with stock BCG in use.

Alluminum bolt + steel BCG will smash and crack the jamming BB inside the hop up chamber if there is any jamming happens and do even more damage to the hop up chamber. if you have a jammed gun in the gun fight with the metal bolt and steel BCG in the gun, you are gonna have to field strip the gun and use some tool to remove the cracked BB from the chamber, which is deadly. the stock plastic bolt works just fine, it will crack itself when jamming occurs, but after that you don't have to worry about it anymore, I found a cracked bolt works even better in my case, coz next time when the jamming happens, the jammed BB will just bounce to the crack area so it won't damadge other parts of the bolt. the stock plastic bolt won't smash/crack the BB in the chamber, all you need to do is remove the mag, rack the handle and let the jammed BB roll out the the chamber, insert a new mag and you are good to go.

To gain some not so noticable recoil by increasing the risk of breaking your gun or get shot, It's really not worthy in my book.

2, TB inner barrel
stock inner barrel works just fine, for the open bolt system. I was cought with a jammed gun early this year in OP Shallow lake, turns out there was some dirts got into the barrel through the ejection port during the shooting, dirt + 6.03 barrel = jamming, then what about 6.01? you get a higher chance to jam with a TB Barrel anytime. note that your rifle doesn't shoot as far as a real steel m4 nor you are a sniper that you are gonna pick you target off miles away, accuracy doesn't really matter that much in airsoft as long as your BB doesn't fly way off the grid.

Know your gun is a toy, and know what a toy can do, know it's limit will help you run well.

My 2 cents

Tank

[falcon68]

Thanks for info Tank!

I know it's just a fancy toy....all I want and expect from it is that it shoots smoothly and straight with minimal jams.