Mp5 to HK94 Conversion (Your thoughts inside)

[shomie911]

Bump

[Mantelope]

No, a G3 box will not work because the nozzles will be different. Your best bet is to get an MP5 box and replace the cylinder. I personally think that just the barrel will look best, without any flashhider. If it were my gun, I'd go as realistic as possible, which means no Nitro rail. Heck, the Nitro rails are primarly to stabilize a plastic bodied gun, and you're going to put a metal body on it anyway.

You really have to decide if you're going for an HK94 or an HK94SG1. The non-SG1 version wouldn't have a bipod, and shouldn't have a scope or anything more powerful than a regular RDS. Keep in mind that all HK94s are semi-only, so if you're going for realism you're going to have to disable auto and paint the selector markings. Additionally, you'll want to remove the flipper mag release, as the real ones are lacking it too.

As for the SG1, you'd probably be best off going with a claw mount base and, if you really feel the need for a flashhider, a regular birdcage. The SG1 would also have a fullstock, not a sliding stock. If you absolutely need a bipod, don't get a massive M60 one, it will just look guady. Same goes for a RIS... it just doesn't match the style of the gun. A small Harris bipod mounted to the bottom of the foregrip would probably be the sexiest possible.

[shomie911]

Agreed, the m-60 does look a little gaudy. I already was going to remove the flipper mag release, but thanks for the input. I probably won't disable the auto but I will paint the selector markings and only use it in semi. Even though the real steel HK94 woulden't have a folding stock, I can't bring myself not to
get this for my project. Effectiveness above looks I guess. I need the folding stock so I can harness it without it boucing off of trees. And since the HK94 had the early type pistol grip but the navy style lower receiver, I'm going to have to get a set of the early type selector switches and a slip on grip for the mp5. Thats here

From this pic it seems that the earlier HK94's used carrot style handguards. Their here if you want to check them out.
Also I found a solution to the problem about the front sights being in the way of my RDS. That would be here


Here's the picks of the Carrot grip, UMG folding stock, pistol grip conversion, and the folding front sights.

[Mantelope]

I'll agree, the UMP-style folding stock is downright awesome. I had one on my CA33E for quite some time, and I only took it off because of weight distribution. Again, if you're going for authenticity, get the claw scope mount. You can take it off extremely easily if you want to, and the iron sights won't get in the way. In fact, I believe you can use the iron sights with the mount still attached. The flip-up front sight looks... flimsy. I'd expect to loose that after one or two games. Link: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...tm=GD-ACC-NB29

I doubt you'd be able to find the Carrot grip, it hasn't been made in years. Your best bet, if you want one like that (remember that not ALL HK94s used the slim-style foregrip) is to buy a real steel one, and get some sort of adaptor made... someone's done it, check this out: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=24155

The HK94 used the "SEF" style lower receiver, of course without full auto. If you DO want the SEF lower, just buy one from WGC or something. For example: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...m=ICS-ACC-MP46
You'd of course need the different selector switch as well: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...tm=ICS-PT-MP45
You shouldn't have any issues putting them onto your gun.

[shomie911]

I'll probably buy a reinforced metal ver.II mechbox and just pretty much buy all new internals. If you have any preferences on the best brands and models I'd be happy to know. My original reason for getting an RIS was to get a larger battery but I saw a review on arnies about the battery sling. I could fit a 9.6v 2700mAh.
Plus I need a 3-point sling anyway. The sling is here its made by laylax. I probably wont be able to locate the carrot grip but it would have looked nice. I have a question about WGC do you have to do anything special to import it into the US. Or do they take care of that. That selector switch and lower SEF body ONLY work for ICS aegs nptice the full mount peice on the back of the lower receiver istead of the "half" one used by Marui's. The selector switch wont work because mine uses the same hexagonal ones that a TM uses. Also what would be the most reliable configuration (I'm looking for about 360 fps or a Guarder SP100) so you think I should get a systema silent head set?

[lt_poncho]

Nice work Shomie - really nice variants.

[shomie911]

Thanks I've been putting alot of hours into researching the real-steal itself and parts to make a accurate (accurate as in realistic) airsoft version of it. Thanks for the enthusiasm, really appreciate it as I watch a good 700 dollars fly out the window.... lol. I think I can safely say that this varient will be done around 4 to 5 months from now. Don't want to break the bank in 1 day, just gonna take my time and make this as financialy painless as possible. Still need some suggestions for the questions I made in my last post, especially the one about any problems importing from WGC to the US.

[Mantelope]

Originally Posted by shomie911

I'll probably buy a reinforced metal ver.II mechbox and just pretty much buy all new internals. If you have any preferences on the best brands and models I'd be happy to know. My original reason for getting an RIS was to get a larger battery but I saw a review on arnies about the battery sling. I could fit a 9.6v 2700mAh.
Plus I need a 3-point sling anyway. The sling is here its made by laylax. I probably wont be able to locate the carrot grip but it would have looked nice. I have a question about WGC do you have to do anything special to import it into the US. Or do they take care of that. That selector switch and lower SEF body ONLY work for ICS aegs nptice the full mount peice on the back of the lower receiver istead of the "half" one used by Marui's. The selector switch wont work because mine uses the same hexagonal ones that a TM uses. Also what would be the most reliable configuration (I'm looking for about 360 fps or a Guarder SP100) so you think I should get a systema silent head set?

My apologies about the ICS thing, I must have looked too quickly. You're best off finding a Marui lower, or, as happened in my case, a CA33E owner looking for the modern grip. The HK94 that Manchovie posted is using my old CA33E lower, and I've got the Marui one on my gun. Required zero modification whatsoever.

As Manchovie noted, a Guarder SP100 is giving around 400FPS in that HK94. Since you say this is a TM knock-off, I think your best bet is to buy a complete SystemA box. Otherwise, you're just going to continue throwing money at it, replacing whatever breaks and having to deal with a lot of downtime... it'll also probably end up costing more in the end than a complete SystemA box.

Personally, I think a battery sling is ugly. It seems like a band-aid solution to me. If it were my gun, what I'd do is get an Eagle Force motor and a 9.6V 1400mAh mini battery for the foregrip. Even with intermittent full-auto, it should last a complete game.

We're not going to be able to answer your questions about buying for WGC, as we don't live in the US. You're best off asking that question at an American forum.

[shomie911]

400fps isn't that bad for a sniper since most people at our feilds shoot 360-390 full auto on our fields so a 400fps sniper isn't out of the question. I think I may have found a good somewhat expensive solution for the battery problem . I'm sure I'll get alot of flak saying that li-polys explode but they were proven not to by more than a few people. Besides it'll get me through the game and give me instantaneous semi-fire response times. With a systema high speed motor I shouldn't have any problems using this battery right? If I bought a high speed gear set also do you think I could completely eliminate any lag. (I'm thinking about 1/4 to 1/10 of a second per trigger pull). I'll probably use .28 or .30 in the gun. I should get around 360 right. I can get about 5000 .30's for $11 so it isn't too expensive their priced about the same so which would be better .25, .28 or .30?
The only way I will use the .30's is if it still keeps my FPS at the least 355 but more resonably 370FPS. Thanks for all the help harleyb!

[yanhchan]

Can someone explain why they made the HK 94? I don't know how effective a CQB gun is for sniper/carbine purposes...

[Mantelope]

Originally Posted by shomie911

400fps isn't that bad for a sniper since most people at our feilds shoot 360-390 full auto on our fields so a 400fps sniper isn't out of the question. I think I may have found a good somewhat expensive solution for the battery problem . I'm sure I'll get alot of flak saying that li-polys explode but they were proven not to by more thank a few people. Besides it'll get me through the game and give me instantaneous semi-fire response times. With a systema high speed motor I shouldn't have any problems using this battery right? If I bought a high speed gear set also do you think I could completely eliminate any lag. (I'm thinking about 1/4 to 1/10 of a second per trigger pull). I'll probably use .28 or .30 in the gun. I should get around 360 right. I can get about 5000 .30's for $11 so it isn't too expensive their priced about the same so which would be better .25, .28 or .30?
The only way I will use the .30's is if it still keeps my FPS at the least 355 but more resonably 370FPS. Thanks for all the help harleyb!

400FPS is fine, I just thought from your previous post you wanted around 360FPS, and I was saying that an SP100 is going to give you more than that.

Lithium-based batteries are fine as long as you're getting high-discharge ones from a good manufacturer, with the proper charging equiptment. There are better ones than the one you linked, check out www.unipros.com .

High speed motor plus high speed gears with a battery with a lower current draw may cause problems... heck, since the battery's 11V, you might actually have issues with the gun firing more than once before the trigger disconnect happens. If you're going with the Lithium battery, I'd stick with regular ratio gears and a high torque motor, just because of the strength of the spring. Your rate of fire will still be extremely high, and thus your trigger lag extremely low.

If you think you're getting a great deal on BBs, make sure they're from a reputable manufacturer. If the .30s are badly made, there's a good chance you'd end up getting performance from .25s or lighter as long as they're from a good manufacturer. On a gun firing 400FPS with .20s, I'd personally use .28s, but it's best if you actually try all the different weights you're considering. You might find a specific weight that is best for the fields you play in and how you use the gun.

[Mantelope]

Originally Posted by yanhchan

Can someone explain why they made the HK 94? I don't know how effective a CQB gun is for sniper/carbine purposes...

Since your damn avatar is H&K, I'm assuming you know about HKPRO. The very first paragraph on the HK94 page explains exactly why it was made.

[shomie911]

For the motor should I get high-torque or super high-torque. I realize I said 360 fps sorry sort of forgot my earlier post. The .30's are the high quality kind, my friend had them but hes sort of greedy and won't share them. They work incredibly in his gun so I was thinking with a 400fps spring and with .30's I'd get around 360-370 still but have more accuracy and range. Not to mention .30's punch through any leaf, especially when we go against noobs using .12 grams and you can use a small bush as impenetrable cover. So you think the battery from Evike is low quality. It seemed alright and it came with a charger so I thought 2 birds 1 stone. I'll get regular ration gears, I completely see your point.
I wanted the trigger lag so low because of the amount of movement and flanking that happens in our firefights, I need the speed at the trigger to tag them before they get back to cover. So you think .28 gram are better than .30's I'll take your word for it and get those them and maybe a sample bag of .30's just to try them out. If you have the time and don't mind can you compile a list of the best gearbox internals (including reinforced gearbox case ver.II) for the HK94. I'll be making my own list also and will change it acording to your recommendations. I'll probably use some parts from my mechbox now but I'll be buying pretty much everything for a new gearbox from the ground up. I want the most reliable parts possible. I intend to try to open the box only annually. (if thats even possible) Thanks in advance everyone.

[yanhchan]

Originally Posted by harleyb

Since your damn avatar is H&K, I'm assuming you know about HKPRO. The very first paragraph on the HK94 page explains exactly why it was made.

I'm lazy spoonfeed me....ok I'll look fine

[shomie911]

Heres a video of the HK94.