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Upgrades & Modifications

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Old March 14th, 2007, 18:44   #16
Uziguy
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Thanks, I figured that so I placed the order last night!
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Old March 14th, 2007, 18:49   #17
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Dude don't worry I'm turning a M110 gun with a 7.2v
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Old March 15th, 2007, 04:37   #18
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Im sure you are already aware that the ca8-2 is a semiauto only aeg. you must want a quick follow-up shot. a mosfet switch would decrease the resistance created by your trigger switch. this will result in more power to the motor and an increased motor response. I would also cause less wear and tear on your motor by not useing the stock trigger switch.
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Old March 15th, 2007, 05:54   #19
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CA8-2 has full auto!
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Old March 15th, 2007, 12:49   #20
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CA8's full auto is not disabled, just hidden. Push the selector past semi and bang, or rather, bang bang bang bang bang bang bang.
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Old March 15th, 2007, 13:04   #21
ringsted
 
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personallly i would go for this setup, it is part of a tune guide i made in the danish airsoft forum.


Guarder SP130 spring
ball bearing spring guide
Systema New Bore Up cylinder set
Promehtues double torque gear
sector gear clip.
marui or CA piston will be fine.
magnum motor
a 12v 1500 mah elite battery, it will give you around 25 RPS.
kanzen 7mm ball bearings www.kanzen-bearings.com (yes they last even at 33 RPS with high speed gears and M130 springs, and with a M200 spring also with trippel torque gearing).

to maetba, a mosfet dont help your motor, it will if anything make it suffer more, because it recives more current. if will however take som stress of your switch assembly. but it is really not needed, even for the most extreme power upgrades.

Last edited by ringsted; March 15th, 2007 at 13:06..
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Old March 15th, 2007, 13:11   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
CA8's full auto is not disabled, just hidden. Push the selector past semi and bang, or rather, bang bang bang bang bang bang bang.
Does it actually fire full auto? Or is it like the G&P SR-25, you can pull the trigger on full auto, but it won't actually fire a BB.
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Old March 15th, 2007, 15:53   #23
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to maetba, a mosfet dont help your motor, it will if anything make it suffer more, because it recives more current. if will however take som stress of your switch assembly. but it is really not needed, even for the most extreme power upgrades.
Actually I have to agree with maetba...motors dont receive current, it ask for some. Voltage is forced in a motor, and the motor takes what it need in current for the specific load it have to move.

Say this:

You have a motor.

Everyone knows that motors heat up when they are under some heavy stress (just like when it tries to compress a spring)

Then say this (it's all hypotetical but still)

You have a 9.6v large pack that can deliver up to 40A instant current.

Then you have your stock trigger unit. It will eat...hmmm... let's say 0.5v (I know this is exagerated, but not by much). And let pass about 25A instant current. This gives you a total of 9.1vx25A = 227.5W of intant power that makes it to the motor.

Next you have a Mosfet switch. Let's say you use the one I am building, since I know the specs. When triggered, it does not consume a single volt, but instead it actually gives about 10v to the motor (because of the slight amplification of the loop circuit... look at "MOSFET op-amp" on google). And since the mosfet can let up to 110A go tru, it means that there is no restriction to the motor. 10x40A = 400W that can be sent to the motor if needed.

Now. A winding-up motor will always consume a certain amount of power, which decrease as the motor speed-up. I say power since the higher voltage you send it, the less current it will drain for the same load. At stall, it can be quite big. (Maybe around 500W in this case) Luckyly, it won't last and decrease fast.

But until it only needs 227.5W to keep speeding-up, then it will be restricted and won't go full out. This means more heat.

Since we agreed that a motor will build some heat faster when near stall than at full speed...we also can agree that if it can speed-up faster, then it will stay cooler.

Kinda hard to explain here, but give it a try. It is exactly the same reason why a mini 9.6v can't drive a gun as well as a large 9.6v. Mini's can only gve 10-15A where large can push 35-40A.
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Old March 16th, 2007, 01:23   #24
ILLusion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziguy View Post
SYSTEMA Advance POLYCARBONATE Half Teeth PISTON ZA0502N
This item is not necessary for the gear set you've chosen. Get a regular full tooth piston
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Old March 16th, 2007, 18:55   #25
ringsted
 
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a mosfet lets more voltage reach the motor, so it will break faster. in your logic a large 12v should be better on the motor then. this is not the case.
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Old March 16th, 2007, 19:04   #26
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Ok now...

READ the post I wrote. Don't just skip to the parts that you think can help your point. Can't you agree that using THE SAME BATTERY, a more efficient system is better?? An Airsoft gun reminds me of the old friction type speed controlers we used in or cars like 10 years ago. It worked well, but an electronic switching is WAY better.

Think about it this way.

You are the motor. You have to run 10 miles non-stop.
Now you have the choice to breath tru a drinking straw.
OR breath tru a 2" pipe.

Which one do you think will let you be more efficient?

Oh and just buy one yourself. Try it and then give the feeback. Stop stating things that you have not tried/can't understand COMPLETLY.

Anyways, it's not my gun, just giving advices here. You chose what you want to do.
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Old March 17th, 2007, 05:46   #27
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ringsted, I'll have to agree with Kos-Mos.

I've built relatively high velocity guns before (for Canadian standards), and those systems struggled a great deal with turning over the spring until I put in a MOSFET switch. When mechanical switches are used, I noticed both the battery, wires, motor and the selector plate would heat up considerably. Sometimes the motor would get so hot that I literally could NOT touch it with my hands. I surmise that this is due to the huge electrical arcs happening inside the motor to get the system started. It is also a proven and known side effect that the copper contacts between the selector plate and mechanical switch assembles will literally burn holes in themselves due to the constant high current arcs. I've SEEN melted wire from high power setups.

By diverting the current draw away from the mechanical assembly in to a MOSFET, all of the above problems pretty much vanished.

Even the benchmarks that AirsoftMechanics published shows notable performance improvements in rate of fire - even in lower powered guns.

Don't bash it till you've tried it.

Last edited by ILLusion; March 17th, 2007 at 05:51..
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Old March 17th, 2007, 18:56   #28
ringsted
 
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okay, the reason i might not have problem is that i have 1,5 mm^2 silikone wires in my gun, combined with thicker plugs for the battery connection, i also did this mod http://ffw.pgup.dk/guides/KortereSwi...tereSwitch.htm

which removes over ½ of the contact assembly, at the same time i soldered reinforcement on both sides of the contact plates that the mechanical contact touches. this mod is far superior to a mosfet IMHO, i know of a lot i people i play with, they use high powered guns like me, 600+ FPS AEG rifles on semi, or 420-500 fps guns that run over 25 rps, and they fry some of the mosfets, so for me a mosfet is just another thing that can go wrong, and not needed, for instance i run promtheheus high speed gears on a systema magnum motor, with a 10,8 volts 3000 mah elite battery with a guarder SP130 spring and it runs around 30 rps and the motor only get hot if i burn 2000 rounds in less than 5 minuttes, and it dont even get that hot compared to an EG1000.

my other setup is a 647 fps SR-15 AEG which runs prometheus trippel torque gears with a magnum motor and a 9,6 4500 Elite Sub C battery, and a custom spring i had made. the SP 170 spring gave around 570 fps. and i can shoot 1000 semi shots in 5 minuttes and the motor still dont get hot, so i dont see what the fuss is all about.
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Old March 17th, 2007, 19:19   #29
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D yu realise that there is over 1 000 000 different models of MOSFET?. Just so you know, 110A at 10V is MORE THAN ENOUGHT to melt the copper switches in any guns. So if you can fry THIS MOSFET with any setup, then I will build you one twice as powerfull and send it to you free. There is no limit to this. Right now, my P-90 could be driven by a 15V motor, as big as a can of paint. The mosfet would not fry.

Why do you think ANY good industrial powersupply is made out of MOSFET? Because they rock. As simple as that.

Now as I said before, it's your gun, do what you want!
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Old March 19th, 2007, 06:06   #30
ILLusion
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Agreed with Kos-Mos. You can't judge all MOSFETs based on a couple of isolated incidents that your friends fried. Who knows what their electrical background is? They could be picking transistors well below the requirements of their system.

The point is, ALL high powered computer supplies, ALL modern high powered stereo amplifiers use MOSFETs. Why? Because they are cheap, easy to install, and EXTREMELY efficient.
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