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Old November 15th, 2007, 16:52   #16
ProbeJax
 
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Originally Posted by ancorp View Post
Metallic blue?

And on, I don't want to make "patches", a proper coat is what I'm looking for...
Yeah, metallic blue. You can buy little bottles of them for model kits, not sure about large quantites, though.
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Old November 15th, 2007, 17:02   #17
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Originally Posted by ProbeJax View Post
Yeah, metallic blue. You can buy little bottles of them for model kits, not sure about large quantites, though.
are you talking about the warhammer acrylic paint?...man that paint is very expensive...
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Old November 15th, 2007, 17:03   #18
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are you talking about the warhammer acrylic paint?...man that paint is very expensive...
I'll water it down a little (a lot). Lets see how that turns out! Hah.
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Old November 15th, 2007, 17:33   #19
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at some stores, like autozone or something, they sell these paints that you are supposed to paint over a plain metallic color. For example, there is the blue tint. It's used for a metallic blue, if you paint metallic silver on first, and then paint the tint over. (it looks better, thats why they do it this way).

For your case, it might work if you paint it Black, and then spray a light coat of the blue.
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Old November 15th, 2007, 19:18   #20
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at some stores, like autozone or something, they sell these paints that you are supposed to paint over a plain metallic color. For example, there is the blue tint. It's used for a metallic blue, if you paint metallic silver on first, and then paint the tint over. (it looks better, thats why they do it this way).

For your case, it might work if you paint it Black, and then spray a light coat of the blue.
Hmm.. any idea of a brand/name?

Thanks,
Cheers,
Alex
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Old November 15th, 2007, 19:51   #21
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My only suggestion is stay away from krylon...The stuff flakes off real bad..Also from what I know of the blueing for real steal is that it has to be hi-heat treated to adhear..wouldn't suggest that either
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Old November 15th, 2007, 19:54   #22
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My only suggestion is stay away from krylon...The stuff flakes off real bad..Also from what I know of the blueing for real steal is that it has to be hi-heat treated to adhear..wouldn't suggest that either
Unless one uses a cold bluing kit. Still for steel only though.

And yes, Krylon seems to flake easily... any other suggestions? I have another spray paint type at home, also in both flat and gloss, but its old, and the can sometimes (often) just stops spraying. Pain in the ass in the middle of a project.

Boy it was fun when I tried to paint over the original factory paint on the metal body. The paint immediately cracked into a checkerboard pattern, 3 seconds after spraying.

Cheers,
Alex
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Old November 15th, 2007, 20:00   #23
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Unless one uses a cold bluing kit. Still for steel only though.

And yes, Krylon seems to flake easily... any other suggestions? I have another spray paint type at home, also in both flat and gloss, but its old, and the can sometimes (often) just stops spraying. Pain in the ass in the middle of a project.

Boy it was fun when I tried to paint over the original factory paint on the metal body. The paint immediately cracked into a checkerboard pattern, 3 seconds after spraying.

Cheers,
Alex
ALWAYS strip and prime first...

first step to painting...

then what people don't do.. Give the gun a nice rub-down with rubbing alcohol, it'll break down any grease and dirt thats left over from touching it.. (Then, wear layex gloves for the rest of the project)
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Old November 15th, 2007, 20:06   #24
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ALWAYS strip and prime first...

first step to painting...

then what people don't do.. Give the gun a nice rub-down with rubbing alcohol, it'll break down any grease and dirt thats left over from touching it.. (Then, wear layex gloves for the rest of the project)
Gloves yes, strip yes (except for that first time - yes live and learn). What should I prime it with? I didn't think Krylon needed a primer...

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Alex
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Old November 16th, 2007, 18:18   #25
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Alright well, my paint really chipped away on the bolt carrier, so I colored it using a black Sharpie permanent marker. It is uneven as one could imagine, but the color is just right. Nice shiny black, that reflects purplish/bluish, which is just great. Any way to paint with permanent marker ink? And I mean evenly.
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Old November 16th, 2007, 18:52   #26
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UTILAC SPRAY ENAMEL from Benjamin Moore is a primer/finisher ... I was thinking if a person would use blue dye during your spray painting what would be the results....
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Old November 17th, 2007, 19:55   #27
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Hey Alex,

I did a little research...here is a few links on Blueing your gun...

http://shootersolutions.com/vaningunblu.html

http://www.vansgunblue.com/

http://www.gunsandammomag.com/techside/blue_0515/

http://shootersolutions.com/gunblue.html


...I might even try it myself...

Last edited by leblanc74; November 17th, 2007 at 19:59..
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Old November 17th, 2007, 20:03   #28
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Hey mate,

You have to understand that gun bluing works only on steel parts... my AK is some sort of aluminum, mostly.

Cheers,
Alex
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Old November 19th, 2007, 00:02   #29
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There's just a little bit more to metal refinishing than spritzing with whatever you can lay your hands on. Prep is everything -- clean it down to bare metal and degrease thoroughly (acetone's great for that sort of thing). Use the opportunity to clean up any rough spots.

If you want the paint to hang around for any length of time at all, you need to prime. (Ideally, you'd want to use a chemical conversion coating first, but that means knowing exactly what alloy you're working with, and it can be expensive as hell.) In this case, a good multipurpose primer like Duplicolor Premium Self-Etching Primer (Crappy Tire should have it in stock) is the best way to go. If you were certain that you were working with aluminum, then a zinc chromate primer would be in order, but you're probably looking at an aluminum-zinc alloy. Don't use a primer designed for a specific surface (like zinc chromate or red oxide) unless you're sure of the surface you're priming -- the wrong primer is worse than no primer at all.

To get the effect you're after, cover the primer with a couple of coats of black. Paint over that with a "candy" blue -- it's transparent, so the black will show through and the blue will just be a hint. Again, a paint that's meant to go on metal (like automotive touch-up paint) is what you want, not some general-purpose spray bomb. That may leave you with a bit more gloss than you're actually looking for. You can kill the shine with a very light coat of clear sprayed from a foot or so away from the piece -- if the coat is light enough, the individual paint droplets won't have time to merge together before drying to a "set", and you'll get a pretty good approximation of a Parkerized finish.
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Old November 19th, 2007, 00:12   #30
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Wow, that, sir, was a very informative post, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated.

So the way I see it - Krylon gloss black is not a good idea? Any recommendations in terms of brands that I should be looking for or asking for, at Canadian Tire? For both the black and the candy blue. The clear I can always buy later if I feel it has too much shine.

Thanks again mate!
Cheers,
Alex
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