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October 22nd, 2008, 12:26
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#16 |
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don't worry about it, first time's never smooth.
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October 22nd, 2008, 12:40
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#17 |
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IronOverlord
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It was smooth until it never fired LOL, and then fighting with a stripped screw. Fuck, I learnt... don't threadlock screws until sure!! LOL
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October 22nd, 2008, 17:00
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#18 | |
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dont worry about that loose o-ring and piston head either. mine are always like that and i think theyre sposed to be cuz they always work great even though theyre seemingly so loose in the cylinder
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October 22nd, 2008, 18:43
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#19 |
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I suggest you use the brand Modify when you decide to upgrade the internals in your mechbox. Money well spent...
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Live for nothing, or die for something They can have my rifle when they can pry it from my dead cold fingers |
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October 22nd, 2008, 18:55
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#20 |
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You can always send it to me if you have a problem.
I'm only 2.5 hours away .
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 Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services |
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October 22nd, 2008, 19:24
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#21 | |
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It's not fine, that means it has bad compression and is leaking air. |
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October 22nd, 2008, 19:39
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#22 |
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IronOverlord
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it's working fine now. I am going to leave this box stock.
I am going to get another A3 grip($31.), and a Systema drop in/with motor. Then I can swap out lowers. (It takes about 1 minute to get the lower off the gun.) when I want to go from cqb to outside games.
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October 22nd, 2008, 19:43
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#23 |
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You put the motor in backwards the first time, I bet. That's what will give you a click when you try and fire. It's engaging the anti-reversal latch. Just mark off which lead is supposed to be positive and make sure you always keep it like that.
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I love freedom and consequently America |
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October 22nd, 2008, 19:51
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#24 |
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IronOverlord
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No , motor was hooked up right, there was no mixing them up. Even though the wire colors are backass jackwards. They were put back exactly. Still don't know why it was jammed?? But like I said, I just opened it up again, checked everything was where it should be, closed it up again. And it worked fine.*scratching head*
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October 22nd, 2008, 19:53
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#25 |
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about o-ring on piston head:
the o-ring needs to be loose and lubed with silicon oil. To make sure your compression works while gearbox open is really simple. Put the cylinder head into cylinder as it is used to be, put your finger on the nozzle, then push the piston into the cylinder. You should feel a resistance which means your o-ring fully seals the compression. If no resistance at all till piston head reaches cylinder head, lube the o-ring on piston head. If this doesnt work again, you might want to try another o-ring. Good resistance on compression test means no leaking and higher FPS.
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WAR-THUG CORP. Last edited by F34N0R; October 22nd, 2008 at 20:01.. |
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October 22nd, 2008, 20:00
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#26 |
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about motor side.
Positive pin on the motor should be in front of the grip and negative at the back. Positive is marked by red dot or positive sign. about no-working mechbox. First off, remove all compression component, put gears into the mechbox, close it and thight the screws. Put your finger on sector gear and make it turn. If you can't do it easily, shimming is incorrect. You will need to go thru shimming method as stated on many website. now shimming is correct, put all components into the mechbox and give it a try with motor.
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WAR-THUG CORP. |
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October 23rd, 2008, 01:30
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#27 | ||
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Quote:
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October 23rd, 2008, 01:41
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#28 | |
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But it will cause worse accuracy and consistency in grouping, as well as fluctuation in FPS. You are using M120 spring correct? |
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October 23rd, 2008, 01:44
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#29 | |
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nope stock springs. stock kraken and jg springs. i have good fps, range, and grouping with all of them
most parts are stock. i usually only add metal bushings, pistons, and piston heads to my gearboxes i always think ill get better compression with a better piston head
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Last edited by Dusti69; October 23rd, 2008 at 01:49.. |
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October 23rd, 2008, 01:47
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#30 | |
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btw JG springs ARE M120, and kraken ones can produce 400FPS+ if you put in bearing spring guide or bearing piston head, or both. |
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