FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[Slono]

I haven't had problems with the stock one yet, assuming that everything is stock, inside and out. The first hi-capa I had I fired around 750 rounds through it and it held together just fine.

[Leang]

Originally Posted by Slono

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A1) The frame actually does close to nothing for performance. Its what you put inside the gun that matters... just like a car. Leather seats and frosted windows won't give your car more horsepower. Having a stock frame with fully upgraded internals is absolutely fine and would still yield great results.

Sorry, I should have elaborated. I meant internals that could be upgraded without having the need of a reinforced frame. But you say that a stock frame can handle pretty highly upgraded internals?

A2) If you think about how the weight of the gun is distributed in stock form, to counteract that weight, think about where you want more weight to be and upgrade all the parts in that area. In this case, you'll want to upgrade to at least a metal barrel, slide, and bushing set to give the tip of the barrel more weight. Steel parts give the most weight.

Yeah, I'm hoping to obtain the outer barrel, inner barrel, and bushing set from ILLusion. As for the slide, I've read that, over time, a metal slide will wear out the stock frame where they rub. Any truth to that?

A3) No. It counts as a 1911. 5.1 usually refers to a double stacker (hi-capa). Likewise, so does a 4.3. The MEU was derived from the 1911 single stacker.

Ah, so the 1911 and Hi-capas are mutually exclusive. But Hi-capas are 2011s.

A4) In stock form, these guns already have great gas "mileage". The slide is light, so not a lot of gas is required to cycle it. Absolutely nothing is needed to be replaced right off the bat with Tokyo Marui 1911/hi-capa guns. That's the beauty of them.

The more expensive starting price is totally worth it then . Before I found this thread, I almost settled for a KJW KP-05 :smack:.

A5) Check THIS thread out. Long story short, glow in the dark or florescent adhesive dots are the best choice for these Novak sights. ILLusion sells them... I told him about them

Great! Nitesites seem like the perfect solution. ILLusion, you have any in stock?

Hope this helps.

Tremendously! You've answered what hours of research only hinted at. Thanks a lot, bro.

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

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Only thing that is a "must" is the nozzle. Stock one will crack on propane. I'd recommand SD ones to replace it.

Right, this is the kind of problem I'm trying to avoid with these questions. If ILLusion has an MEU compatible one, I will definitely add it to the list. Thanks, RacingManiac!

[RacingManiac]

The internal frame on 1911 is(and well be) used for the gun with or without a metal frame upgrade. No one has made a kit that replaces the inner 1911 frame yet(unfortunetely). So regardless if you upgrade the internal or not, they will be riding on the same frame structure....

And yes, more likely than not overtime the metal slide will wear out the stock pot metal frame. But how long it'll take for that to have problem is unknown, at least to me since I have not shot tens of thousands of round through mine yet.

5.1 in the Hi-Capa 5.1 refers really to the barrel length. A stock 1911 Government length gun has the same size barrel. Now between a Hi-Capa 5.1 and a 1911 they are more or less compatible, there are a few philosophical differences based on the pistol they are copying(full length spring guide vs plug, bull barrel vs bushing....etc).

Now I have cracked both stock nozzles in my Hi-Capas, one was used, and the other was brand new. Never have I cracked the 1911 one. Now 1911 might be lower pressure even on propane(or more rapid pressure drop over consecutive firing)due to much smaller gas reservoir, so it might be putting the nozzle on less stress. However they are the SAME nozzle, so fundamentally they can have the same problem. Which is why I always replace them.

[Leang]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

The internal frame on 1911 is(and well be) used for the gun with or without a metal frame upgrade. No one has made a kit that replaces the inner 1911 frame yet(unfortunetely). So regardless if you upgrade the internal or not, they will be riding on the same frame structure....

And yes, more likely than not overtime the metal slide will wear out the stock pot metal frame. But how long it'll take for that to have problem is unknown, at least to me since I have not shot tens of thousands of round through mine yet.

5.1 in the Hi-Capa 5.1 refers really to the barrel length. A stock 1911 Government length gun has the same size barrel. Now between a Hi-Capa 5.1 and a 1911 they are more or less compatible, there are a few philosophical differences based on the pistol they are copying(full length spring guide vs plug, bull barrel vs bushing....etc).

Now I have cracked both stock nozzles in my Hi-Capas, one was used, and the other was brand new. Never have I cracked the 1911 one. Now 1911 might be lower pressure even on propane(or more rapid pressure drop over consecutive firing)due to much smaller gas reservoir, so it might be putting the nozzle on less stress. However they are the SAME nozzle, so fundamentally they can have the same problem. Which is why I always replace them.

Good to know. I'll take the safe route and replace the nozzle along with the other parts. I think I'll hold off on the slide though. Seems like replacing the slide is a good opportunity to replace a bunch of the innards. For now, I'll see how it feels with the new barrels, bushing, and nozzle.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Leang

For aesthetics, I'm trying to achieve something very similar to the photo you have in post 33. The slide will be stock black plastic, but I'd like the bushing and the barrels to be a matching silver or stainless steel. It looks like there are possibly 4 or 5 pieces I'll need to get. I colored them in blue here:



To be honest, the only parts I know the names for are the outer barrel and the inner TK Twist Barrel.

The other parts you're looking at (coloured blue) are:

GM4-3 - Barrel Bushing
GM4-4 - Barrel Bushing Insert (this item does not exist for real steel.)
GM4-22 - Outer Barrel
GM4-23 - Inner Barrel
GM4-31 - Spring Plug

Regarding GM4-4, this item is ONLY found in the Marui bushings. You won't find many aftermarket barrel bushings that will require this insert.

Originally Posted by Leang

1. Without considering upgrading to a better frame, would upgrading any of the internals yield good results?

Yes, of course. Different components do different things. Upgrading to a better frame will give you a higher precision fit with the slide and also allow for a more solid lockup with the barrel. If the connection between the slide and the frame is precise and fit well, then the positioning of the front and rear sights versus your hand (which hold the grip which is connected to the frame) will be more consistent on each shot. You'll be less likely to have to search for the dots again for a follow up shot. Your hand will more likely be in the right place.

Also, a higher quality frame will have a smoother finish... this would lead to faster slide cycling speed as well as less resistance required to move the slide, and thus, less gas consumption.

Finally, some aftermarket frames have extra features, such as monolithic rails or overall greater strength to resist the strike of steel hammers under heavy springs.


What I'm saying is, that each component has its own purpose. Different brands out there will have different features, and even some brands have multiple products of the same item that do different things.

The frame is overall not an absolutely required item to be upgraded. MOST of the time, it is cosmetic and left as the last upgrade, as it is the single most expensive item to upgrade on the pistol.

Originally Posted by Leang

2. I've read that the weight is concentrated on the grip and magazine end. I'm hoping that the parts I'm obtaining for the silver tip will help even it out a little, but I'm not expecting it to make that much of a weight difference. Any tips to increase balance and pointability?

For MEU's, yes. If you want it in silver, it's highly recommended to go with stainless steel components. It looks like you've picked out all the right parts. A metal slide would also help.
Beyond that, it's mostly practice and training. If you're practicing drawing an obscenely unbalanced pistol 5000 times a day, guess what you'll be very proficient at? That's right, drawing and pointing that unbalanced gun consistently and accurately every time.
For other users who either switch between pistol platforms (ie single stack versus double stack), or are using the airsoft as a practice piece for use with real steel, that's when you'll want to balance it out and get it more consistent with what you're used to.
If this piece is your only piece, then really... it doesn't matter. And as far as MOST airsofters goes, this really is a non-issue.

Ultimately, the parts you've picked out are the biggest step to bringing weight forward... plus a metal slide.

Originally Posted by Leang

3. Would the MEU count as a 5.1?

No, they are 5". Hi-Capa's are slightly longer, hence, 5.1. Generally, the number refers to the barrel length (outer.) However, as far as Tokyo Marui is concerned, the number refers to a model name, and is ALSO indicative of the barrel length. For example, the Desert Warrior is also a 4.3" long outer barrel, but is technically a single stack. There are also various 4.3 and 5.1 (specifically named) models, such as the 4.3 Xtreme, 4.3 Dual Stainless, and 5.1 Stainless.

The M1911A1 does NOT have a 1,911" long outer barrel.

Originally Posted by Leang

4. How efficient are the stock internals in terms of efficient gas usage? Anything I should replace off the bat?

For a Marui? Perfectly fine. Things start going weird if you are not assembling things properly or rolling around in mud and dust without cleaning the system. OUT OF THE BOX, a Marui is PERFECTLY balanced and nothing needs replacing "right off the bat." The moment you upgrade certain items, that's when you'll need to replace things right off the bat.

FOR EXAMPLE:
If you upgrade to a metal slide, it is highly recommended to also upgrade:
- Outer barrel (or the chamber will get chewed up by the slide)
- Recoil Spring (or slide return will be sluggish due to the increased weight)
- Nozzle (for Marui, it is likely to crack under a heavier slide, propane use and an enhanced recoil spring.)

If you upgrade to a metal outer barrel, it is highly recommended to also upgrade:
- Slide (or the impact lugs will get completely mauled by the metal chamber of the outer barrel.) This leads to the above necessary components as well: recoil spring, nozzle, etc.
The EXCEPTION to this, is if you find a metal outer barrel that is non-tilting and never contacts the slide, ie: ILLusion Kinetics metal outer barrels. Only barrels of this type will keep a plastic slide lasting a long long time.

Originally Posted by Leang

5. I'm a bit bummed that the Novak sites don't have the white dots to help aim. Anyone have thoughts on the Novak stock sites? This is ultimately a preference thing of course, but I'd still like to see how you guys personally feel about this.

I personally don't like the lack of dot either, but I've resorted to stick on high visibility dots in a "Heinie 8" position.

Originally Posted by Leang

Sorry, I should have elaborated. I meant internals that could be upgraded without having the need of a reinforced frame. But you say that a stock frame can handle pretty highly upgraded internals?

Perfectly fine, unless you're running some insane gas at unregulated 2500psi.
Propane exerts around 140psi.

I've seen guns using stock Marui frames pushing unregulated CO2 at around 800psi and they've been running fine. There are other components that would break first (such as the plastic slide.)

Originally Posted by Leang

As for the slide, I've read that, over time, a metal slide will wear out the stock frame where they rub. Any truth to that?

You rub ANYTHING frequently over time, and it will wear down. Start using your thumb to rub the same spot on your desk 2 hours a day, every day for the next 5 years, and tell me what happens to that spot on your desk. Even a metal desk will experience some level of erosion.

Don't worry about it now. Worry about it when the time comes, chances are you won't care by then or you would've gone on to building 20 more pistols and have long sold that other one (wait... that sounds like my story...)

Originally Posted by Leang

Ah, so the 1911 and Hi-capas are mutually exclusive. But Hi-capas are 2011s.

Yes.... sort of. They're both same family, so they can share a lot of components. This applies to both airsoft as well as real steel.

[Leang]

Thanks, ILLusion, the part about upgrades depending on each other cleared up a lot. I think based on the interlinking upgrade groups, I'm going to start off with only a few items, and see how it feels.

TK Twist Barrel
Stainless steel barrel bushing (if the barrel bushing insert is also visible, I'll add this as well)
Stainless steel spring plug
Stainless steel guide rod
Nozzle
A few Nitesite adhesive dots

LOL, the only performance upgrade is the twist barrel, but I want to test the MEU before I change it up too much. I've left the slide and outer barrel for the next major upgrade. If there's nothing else to change, I'm ready to send you a PM with my order .

[ILLusion]

The bushing insert is internal. You will not see it, and there is no need to replace it regardless.

If you're going with a stainless steel recoil guide rod, you'll have to swap the spring plug to a recoil rod bushing. Different item.

[Leang]

If you're going with a stainless steel recoil guide rod, you'll have to swap the spring plug to a recoil rod bushing. Different item.

Okay, so I can remove the bushing insert from the list. I've tried to do some research to see if there are there any benefits to having the guide rod + recoil rod bushing vs just the barrel bushing alone, and it sounds like opinions are divided. I'll go by what I'd like for appearances sake and say I'd prefer something that looks like yours:



Looks like there's a recoil guide rod and recoil rod bushing?

[Thenooblord]

i have that slide set with that bushing set, it is amazingly sexy

[Leang]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

i have that slide set with that bushing set, it is amazingly sexy

I agree! Trying to figure out the name of the style, as well as whether I need a recoil rod bushing, so I can get my order right.

[juicy]

Whoa, that full length guide looks awesome - what make/model is that? I want one... lol.

[Thenooblord]

its IKs kimber TLE/RL set

[Slono]

I think I may have gotten my terms mixed up. The spring plug is like the bushing, but it doesn't have an open end. The recoil rod bushing is exactly what you see in that picture, a spring plug with a hole in it to accept the guide rod that passes through it when the gun cycles. The insert itself isn't found on any aftermarket part, so like Brian said, you don't have to worry about it.

If I'm still getting my terms mixed up, somebody help me get them straight.

[RacingManiac]

Full-length guide rod with guide rod bushing:



Regular recoil spring "plug"



1911 runs regardless which design, my own preference depends on what I am building....

[Leang]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

its IKs kimber TLE/RL set

What does TLE/RL stand for? LOL, I don't see any letters for 'full length guide rod' anywhere in that acronym.

Thanks for the image references, RacingManiac. Confirmed what I was picturing in my head.