WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[kar120c]

As I wrote some post ago, my KJW G27 suffered a boring issue, after each shot the trigger remained sticked in firing position without resetting.
I thought to bend the trigger bar but after some weeks of no use the trigger worked fine.
Is it possible that silicon lubing the trigger bar and this sticks the bar to the hammer housing or the pistol frame?

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by kar120c

As I wrote some post ago, my KJW G27 suffered a boring issue, after each shot the trigger remained sticked in firing position without resetting.
I thought to bend the trigger bar but after some weeks of no use the trigger worked fine.
Is it possible that silicon lubing the trigger bar and this sticks the bar to the hammer housing or the pistol frame?

It could be.

It's really hard to know for sure.
There is a few possible scenarios where a trigger does not reset.

Sorry, I can't offer much of a definitive answer as I don't have your gun to inspect.

But to answer your question, silicone shouldn't stick things together. It should allow for easier movement between the components. It is lubrication after all.

Silicone oil is quite light though. It's possible that it may have been "blown" away somehow anyways. This is why I use things like SuperLube for lubrication.

That shit stays on!

[kar120c]

[QUOTE=e-luder;1849370]It could be.

It's really hard to know for sure.
There is a few possible scenarios where a trigger does not reset.

What are these scenarios? maybe the Guarder Steel trigger bar may be useful?

[e-luder]

[quote=kar120c;1849432]

Originally Posted by e-luder

It could be.

It's really hard to know for sure.
There is a few possible scenarios where a trigger does not reset.

What are these scenarios? maybe the Guarder Steel trigger bar may be useful?

Well....:

1). The trigger bar spring too weak:

If the trigger bar spring can not pull the trigger bar properly because it's too weak, damaged or obstructed, the trigger will not reset.

Remember what this part does. It's the primary spring that pushes (or pulls) the whole trigger mechanism forward.

2). Damaged blow back unit and/or damaged trigger bar:

In most cases, if your blowback unit is worn down such that it can no longer push the top nub on the trigger that sticks out from the hammer housing, the trigger bar will never reset regardless if your trigger bar spring works or not.

The trigger bar will never be able to slip out to reset, not only the trigger, but also for the sear to lock the hammer.

3). Bent trigger bar "nub" bent trigger bar...uhh... strut? (lol)

if your trigger bar is bent, it will grind against two main key places on your lower internal system.

The first is the frame. It will obstruct the ride of the trigger bar as it actuates. This is part of the obstructed trigger spring thingy I was talking about in NO.1. If this is the case, you will see some sort of grind marks on the frame on the right side where the trigger is riding along.

The second is the nub on top that you can physically see. That round part on the hammer mechanism on the right side (if you were pointing the muzzle away from you ie. shooting someone). If that nub is bent, it will misalign itself from the blowback unit. Secondly, it will grind against the slot on the hammer mechanism and prevent a smooth ride when the trigger is pulled.

4). The actual trigger is non functional.

This can be due to the lack of slack the trigger has when it's inserted into the plastic frame. On some aftermarket triggers, they sometimes fit rather tightly when inserted into a Guarder frame. This physically obstructs the trigger's movement causing a delayed trigger reset (ready to fire state).

Another things is the re-assembly of the trigger mech after the gun has been completely broken down. Some operators run into this where they insert the slide catch a certain and it physically tightens the fitment of the trigger.

5). Safety Trigger is too long (highly unlikely in most cases)

In very few cases, I've found that some Glocks had a "longer than usual" safety trigger. If this happens, the trigger bar may or may not reset properly because the longer safety will not allow a fast return to the trigger's charged state. It will jam the trigger, essentially.

Although, if this happens, the trigger safety will not work at all. That is, your gun will NOT have a safety feature on it.

again, this is highly unlikely but I've seen it before.

6). The manual safety malfunctioning

In Marui Guns, the manual safety (disguised as a serial number plate beneath the rail), sometimes gets displaced due to poor spacing between the front chassis and the frame and prevents the actual trigger from functioning.


Anyways, that's all I can think of right now. I can't know for sure what the problems is. It's hard to diagnose on the internet. Sometimes it's a completely different diagnosis altogether from when I physically have it in front of me to inspect.

My suggestion is to just inspect everything make sure that nothing is out of place before you go and spend some money on extra parts...

[turok_t]

Are you having weak blowback?
Are you having low fps?

This is a very common problem among glock users who have a poor seal between the gas route and the air nozzle regardless if they have upgraded to the Nineball gas route for their magazines. A lot of individuals shim or increase the height of their gas route using various methods for all their mags. Instead of modding all my mags, I decided to mod my air nozzles instead.

I simply used cyanoacrylic glue (ie. super glue) and accelerator to cure the glue instantly. Surrounding the opening of the air nozzle is a small rectangular recess that conforms with the shape of the gas route. I simply filled the recess with cyanoacrylic glue to build up the height and cured it instantly using the accelerator. Simply use the 400-800 grit sandpaper and sand it down to create a smoother surface at the desired height. Make sure that it is not too high though or else it will impede cycling. (For WE M4/416/SCAR/PDW users, you can perform this mod too if you experience poor seal). If you still experience poor blow back and low fps, try using a larger piston head O-ring (the WE piston lids are slightly larger in diameter and can form a better seal with TM style air nozzles).

After performing this mod with two of my glocks, I gained 10-15fps, my slide locks back more consistently, and my blowback was much stronger! The good thing about this mod is that it is modular- you can sand down the glue as much as you want to the desired height, or you can simply use an exacto knife to pry it off completely. Here are some pictures:





Here is a sneak peak of my duracoated (slide only) FDE TM G17 with custom stippling by me

[GBBR]

Do they make metal rear sights with machined thread, yknow not that peice of shit wood screw plastic sight.

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by GBBR

Do they make metal rear sights with machined thread, yknow not that peice of shit wood screw plastic sight.

Yes check guns modify or nineball

[ARC-74]

Originally Posted by GBBR

Do they make metal rear sights with machined thread, yknow not that peice of shit wood screw plastic sight.

Check the first page, e-luder made a list of available sights with the pros & cons of each brand.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by GBBR

Do they make metal rear sights with machined thread, yknow not that peice of shit wood screw plastic sight.

ALL sights must come with some sort of threading for the rear sight block. Most of them come with their own mounting bolt. Otherwise, you wont be able to mount the BBU and lock it in position.

"that peice of shit wood screw" fastens the BBU to the slide....

[Roland1014]

Would a lighter BBU help in cycling MBK slides? Like this "Angle Customs" one from evike:
http://www.evike.com/products/45388

EDIT: Nevermind, looks like they took an AIP, made it red and rebranded it.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Roland1014

Would a lighter BBU help in cycling MBK slides? Like this "Angle Customs" one from evike:
http://www.evike.com/products/45388

EDIT: Nevermind, looks like they took an AIP, made it red and rebranded it.

The lighter you make your slide, the higher cyclic you'll achieve.
According to one of Newton's law of motion anyways.

The downside is that with a light slide assembly, you'll reduce felt recoil of the gun.

That BBU, if it's identical to the AIP one in terms of it's weight, you'll reduce the weight of the housing nearly by a half. The Standard Marui Glock BBU comes in at around 54.3g and the AIP one is about 24g last I measured. I don't have any at the moment so I can't say that I'm 100% confident in that number. But I bet it's pretty close. lol.

[GBBR]

Originally Posted by e-luder

"that peice of shit wood screw" fastens the BBU to the slide....

well that much I know LOL I might not be that smart but I'm definitely not brain dead, I was trying to find something that could hold my BBU more snug in the slide, that small woodscrew in plastic sight with plastic threading comes loose after a while and over tightening maycause stripping

Also, I was wondering if there was a way to make the trigger pull heavier, by alot... with the Guns Modify Trigger ( tuned to minimal travel ) I feel the trigger is now too sensitive? I never held on to a glock for so long to notice these things

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by GBBR

well that much I know LOL I might not be that smart but I'm definitely not brain dead, I was trying to find something that could hold my BBU more snug in the slide, that small woodscrew in plastic sight with plastic threading comes loose after a while and over tightening maycause stripping

Also, I was wondering if there was a way to make the trigger pull heavier, by alot... with the Guns Modify Trigger ( tuned to minimal travel ) I feel the trigger is now too sensitive? I never held on to a glock for so long to notice these things

Well...
The only thing you can really do is just threadlock the screw in there. Even with metal sights, that screw still tends to come loose.

What I've been doing is using blue gasket maker instead of threadlock. It works and will prevent the screw from turning too much when the slide is cycling. Plus it's not as permanent as thread lock. The gasket maker wont bond to anything around that area. Just don't put a tremendous amount in there. Just enough to "seal" the screw head and prevent it from turning.

For your trigger pull:

What you need to do is increase the tension of the trigger bar spring. It's that tiny one right above the magazine chamber. The only manufacturer that carried a stronger one was... I wanna say... Action but I feel like that's wrong. I think it AIP has the strongest one.

I've been making those springs myself for such a thing.

Your "sensitive" trigger is ecxasterbated by the lessened travel. Give it a bit of slack. THe way I tune Glock trigger is to increase the weight, adjust the trigger bar and sear engage points, custom tune the hammer a bit to allow for the trigger bar and sear adjustment to happen and then adjust the travel.

The problem with some Marui Glocks is that their hammer breaks are not really all that consistent. Some Glocks have different hammer break points with each pull making it harder to do precision modifications like these...

[GBBR]

Sorry, I was trying to say the break of the hammer is very very light and I was hoping for a much heavier one, the custom trigger bar spring interests me, is it okay if you explain via PM or what ever how ya do it so I can go ahead and try it out?

[kar120c]

Interesting mods but about the magazines, how should be modded?
I experience this issue in a KJW G27

Originally Posted by turok_t

Are you having weak blowback?
Are you having low fps?

This is a very common problem among glock users who have a poor seal between the gas route and the air nozzle regardless if they have upgraded to the Nineball gas route for their magazines. A lot of individuals shim or increase the height of their gas route using various methods for all their mags. Instead of modding all my mags, I decided to mod my air nozzles instead.

I simply used cyanoacrylic glue (ie. super glue) and accelerator to cure the glue instantly. Surrounding the opening of the air nozzle is a small rectangular recess that conforms with the shape of the gas route. I simply filled the recess with cyanoacrylic glue to build up the height and cured it instantly using the accelerator. Simply use the 400-800 grit sandpaper and sand it down to create a smoother surface at the desired height. Make sure that it is not too high though or else it will impede cycling. (For WE M4/416/SCAR/PDW users, you can perform this mod too if you experience poor seal). If you still experience poor blow back and low fps, try using a larger piston head O-ring (the WE piston lids are slightly larger in diameter and can form a better seal with TM style air nozzles).

After performing this mod with two of my glocks, I gained 10-15fps, my slide locks back more consistently, and my blowback was much stronger! The good thing about this mod is that it is modular- you can sand down the glue as much as you want to the desired height, or you can simply use an exacto knife to pry it off completely. Here are some pictures:







Here is a sneak peak of my duracoated (slide only) FDE TM G17 with custom stippling by me