issues with my high speed build.

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by Hectic

He does carry mostly good stuff just doesnt happen to have POM heads.
Plus he lets me pic stuff up so i dont gotta waste money on shipping lol.
Lurking thats just crazy on auto lmao.
The one stealth linked is closer to what i wound up with.

Is that a hint that I need to open a store front?

I hope your full auto is faster than my semi...

Lurkingknight - challenge accepted. I will power the Lonex with a 11.1v brick. Things are going to go horribly wrong.... Lol

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

The problem with microsswitches and mosfets is the voltage noise through the switch, but I think there's mosfets with debounce code out there now that filter it out. It's not that big of a deal to live with.

It doesn't matter, the point is to replace the microswitch with the button switch, otherwise you still have the same trigger pull length problem lol

Either way, something mechanical still needs to be there for the cutoff lever to hit. Might be difficult to mod a microswitch trigger to shorten the trigger pull and run off a button switch. I don't see any easy way of doing it without losing semi auto. And then what's the point really, the whole purpose is to get faster response in semi-auto lol

[wind_comm]

whatchu talkin bout willis?

Hair trigger testing (airsoft) - YouTube

I (accidentally. long story.) have a similar trigger pull on my m4. semi works perfectly (without AB I might add) and (more importantly) safe doesn't fire either (though that took some work =S)

[Hectic]

Or just allow local pic ups at your convienence.
I was comparing semi to semi. The near instant trigger response.a short pull like that in auto nets 3 or 4 rounds fired. Ill see bout making a video but for sure on saturday or sunday ill hit a chrony and get a real number on rps.
Its definately faster then any gun ive ever had. Its for sure over 25rps just based on how quickly it empties a mag. I dont think its north of 30rps but i could be wrong.

Originally Posted by Stealth

Is that a hint that I need to open a store front?

I hope your full auto is faster than my semi...

Lurkingknight - challenge accepted. I will power the Lonex with a 11.1v brick. Things are going to go horribly wrong.... Lol

[lurkingknight]

13:1s on stock motor and 7.4? high 20s for sure. Doubt it's in the 30s.

[Hectic]

9.6 but i guess that prety close to a 7.4?

[Stealth]

Still using NiMHs I see....

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by wind_comm

whatchu talkin bout willis?

Hair trigger testing (airsoft) - YouTube

I (accidentally. long story.) have a similar trigger pull on my m4. semi works perfectly (without AB I might add) and (more importantly) safe doesn't fire either (though that took some work =S)

What's the mod look like on the inside?
I could see retaining the trigger housing, replacing the forward contacts with the button switch and removing the contact from the carrier, then just short stroking the whole thing. So it just moves forward enough to hit the button switch, and mod the carrier so the cutoff lever still pops the carrier off the switch when it's that far back in the housing.

[wind_comm]

Rambling about hairtrigger and overspin with DSG (airsoft) - YouTube
(part2) Rambling about hairtrigger and overspin with DSG (airsoft) - YouTube

you'll have to pardon his rambling, it's not usually his style, but all the information is in there.

(also google suzaku's hair trigger guide, I think he had the link in the video description)

I didn't do it quite the same way or to the extreme that he did (didn't have the same materials on hand), but also because I didn't want a trigger pull quite that short (mine ended up being about 1.2-1.5 mm, still way shorter than I wanted...)

it's all done with the same trigger trolley setup. no microswitches or otherwise. there's definitely no feeling of a "break" like a GBB or "activation" like a switch, but the whole thing going off at 30+ rps tends to do that for you.

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Still using NiMHs I see....

Yeah im old school like that. One of these days ill bring myself to grab a balance charger and some lipos. But for now im satisfied with NiMh. Definately alot beter then NiCads wer lol.

[ThunderCactus]

ah cool, I'd much rather use a button switch to drive the mosfet though. But it looks like it's definitely possible with that setup.

[lurkingknight]

this one is for stealth. :P 62rps KAC pdw & hairtrigger (airsoft) - YouTube

[Hectic]

Okay so i am somewhat dissapointed and also somewhat not.

The build seems to work well. Its around 320 fps perfect for indoor the trigger response is good but apparently im only pushing 1200rpm/20rps.
Not too sure how this is happening.
I plan on changing the piston head and gearbox shell and perhaps removing the mid line tamiya connector at the rear of the gun (its there so you can remove the gearbox without cutting wires)
I dont think the draw is too high (motor wires and battery dont get hot at all on repeated semi or full mid caps of auto)
Could it be the stock cyma motor can only spin so fast, is the piston still too heavy, i am sure it is shimmed as well as can be so i doubt thats the issue.
Again the setup is.
13:1 gears
Mildly swissed lonex piston stock cyma head
Deans at battery
Stock cyma shell
Solid bushings
Stock cyma cylender and head
Stock bearing spring guide
M90 spring
9.6v 1600mah miny batt.

Help me push 27-32 rps (for the trigger response not the rof, its almost good enough but not quite)
And please dont tell me i have to go lipo i really dont want to.
Is the lonex shell with bearing bushings gonna give a good boost in rof?
Also a new piston head will mean i dont have to use the crappy metal block used as a "nut" to mount the head onto so thatll reduce weight a bunch too (id say by half the weight of the entire piston lol.

[ThunderCactus]

switch to a 10.8v battery, a 7.4v lipo likely wouldn't give you much better ROF than a 10.8v NiMH. The 2S lipo gives you comparable ROF as a 9.6 on torque gears, but I can't speak for 13:1 gears since that requires more motor torque and that's where LiPo has the advantage.
Get rid of the tamiya connectors mid-line, replace them with deans if you want, but having a tamiya anywhere in the line completely defeats the purpose of having deans on your battery.
If you don't have a basic mosfet yet, throw one in there, it'll give you a really noticeable ROF boost. It'll also get rid of the trigger arcing caused by a 10.8v pack.
And the motor draw will never be high on a mini NiMH pack, they just don't supply enough amperage.

[Hectic]

Well unfortuneately i dont think i will be able to fit a 10.8 pac in the handguard of my sd6 unless perhaps i made a custom one and ive been a lil warry of tryin to build my own batteries. The 9.6 just fits but if i could get one where the extra cell (compared to the 9.6) was either loose off one end or was to the side like so ---= then it would fit but if it was 4 on one side and five on the other like ----¨----- (the ¨ bein the wires comking out it wont fit)
A fet yes. I plan on cramming a merf in there at a later date to get 3 round burst. How much of a boost you figure thatll give? And also i guess to get full gains ill have to wire it to the trigger not just the "plug n play" install correct?