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C7A2 = TM M4A1?

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Old November 18th, 2007, 00:30   #46
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Originally Posted by Mr. G36! View Post
I'm sure this is a no-brainer, but I assume a PTW would be the best base to start off with if one were considering a C7/8, correct? Say a PTW M16 of some sort to a C7A2. Easy as pie, right? And a lot better than using a TM base, obviously.

Are there mods out there to allow for the ambidextrous mag-release and Selector switch? If cash wasn't a factor, how accurate could you get to the real thing?
Ambi parts are available on a few websites, but if you're going for a PTW you'll need some special bits for the C7A2...
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Old November 26th, 2007, 13:49   #47
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Ambi parts are available on a few websites
Can you perhaps refer us to said sites with the ambi parts? I'll be picking up my M15A4 rifle at the post office tonight. I'd be interested in picking up some ambi parts to try to make the gun a bit more authentic.
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Old November 26th, 2007, 16:14   #48
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Laylax - Evolution Part Set for Marui M16


Laylax - Ambidextrous Magazine Catch Button for Marui M16

Laylax are the only folks I know of that produce the ambi-parts for airsoft...
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Old November 26th, 2007, 16:23   #49
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damn LERCH when i saw those pics i thought ya, ambi stuff would be cool then I looked at the price and for $100 I'll stay right handed.
Maybe in a few months but it would just be for the tacticool factor
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Old November 26th, 2007, 16:43   #50
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Definately LCF, probably gonna pick that up in a little bit and install it with an arse load of other new parts...
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Old November 26th, 2007, 19:38   #51
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turns out i had to take the battey out of the stock and charge it right from the battery wire..not the wire that connects to the gun
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Old November 26th, 2007, 19:48   #52
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Yup, I found a couple dozen items from KA that have either a charger latch or the ambi-mag release. None with the enlarged bolt release or mag release though...
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Old November 26th, 2007, 20:58   #53
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Thanks a lot. You guys are the best.

Not physical mods as of yet, but the first stages of the C7A1 and C8A2 are on the way...

Classic Army M15A4 rifle


I had originally wanted to do a C7A2, but decided to go for the C7A1 instead and keep the black furniture

Tokyo Marui M4A1


I'll be painting the furniture OD probably on the weekend. I'm going to hold off on the grip though. I'm a noob and don't trust myself taking apart a brand new gun quite yet. I hear that setting the motor back in correctly can be tricky, and I don't want to break anything in my new gun.

Need to get some quality slings for them now. Even though I may not need it, I may look into that Guarder TRI-AD knockoff. May not look like the real deal, but it should do the trick.

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Old November 27th, 2007, 21:21   #54
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if you dont want to remove the grip and still want to paint it, try using tape around the edges and what not so you can spray the paint onto the grip and not get any on the receiver
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Old November 27th, 2007, 21:35   #55
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The grip isn't terribly difficult to properly remove.. All you have to do is take out the motor, and undo two screws...

Back when I had an armalite I did this quite a few times and never once had a problem with my motor not seating back in correctly..
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Old November 27th, 2007, 22:12   #56
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Thanks. I've watched the video on mechbox.com a couple of times now, and I think I'm feeling a bit better about doing this than I did before. I'd really rather remove the grip and paint it correctly than try to tape around it. I think I'll take the plunge and do it this weekend when I do the buttstock and foregrip.
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Old November 27th, 2007, 23:02   #57
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Originally Posted by Crunchmeister View Post
Thanks. I've watched the video on mechbox.com a couple of times now, and I think I'm feeling a bit better about doing this than I did before. I'd really rather remove the grip and paint it correctly than try to tape around it. I think I'll take the plunge and do it this weekend when I do the buttstock and foregrip.
Make sure you wash everything with rubbing alcohol beforehand then wear latex gloves thought the whole painting process...

Do 2-5 very light coats of OD, then finish it with 2 very light coats of the krylon non-shine clear coat

(This is assuming you're going to be painting it with the krylon camo OD)
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Old November 27th, 2007, 23:51   #58
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Make sure you wash everything with rubbing alcohol beforehand then wear latex gloves thought the whole painting process...

Do 2-5 very light coats of OD, then finish it with 2 very light coats of the krylon non-shine clear coat

(This is assuming you're going to be painting it with the krylon camo OD)
Thanks for the tips. Yes, I have the Krylon camo OD and that's what I was going to use. I hadn't thought about the clear coat though. Thanks. I was also going to get a can of Krylon primer. I'll grab the clea while I'm there.
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Old December 1st, 2007, 14:57   #59
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some clear coats leave a gloss. make sure you test your stuff on something else first.
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Old December 4th, 2007, 21:21   #60
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Do not buy the thermold mags...they're poo. -lerch
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