WETTI/AWSS - M4/SCAR/HK416 - Technical Summary Thread

Dire_Wolf · March 1st, 2011, 01:41

still get the same recoil because the force is still transferred to the rest of the gun in a backwards direction, it just doesn't do it solely through the hinge plate, it does it through the back of the lower frame, and via the lock pin at the front to the main body. The bolt catch still works, there's maybe a 1-2mm difference between the t-block on the return spring and where the pvc block is. I find the catch doesn't catch quite as COMPLETELY as otherwise, and can sometimes slip at a bump, but it's not a big deal.

So because there's a difference, it doesn't actually hit the t-block, and there's only minor strain on part 66 due to the back of the lower assembly being notched into both it and part 27. I can't actually say for certain what the gap is, just because it only hits when everything is installed.

Ross · March 1st, 2011, 02:01

Ok. That's interesting. Did you use the same measurements as that guy who made the block out of the red stuff? And what is the lock pin at the front of the body? Is this what the bolt hits on it's way back from recoil?

Dire_Wolf · March 2nd, 2011, 18:42

lock pin on the front is the one that you push through the lower frame to keep it on the rest of the body... when you pull it out, the lower frame detaches from the main body.

my scar had this block when I got it, so I can't say whether those dimensions are the same as earlier in the thread, I can't measure accurately the depth, only the width and length.

Ross · March 3rd, 2011, 01:25

OH! I get it now. Lol. So there is pressure on the lock pin. I wonder if there are any alternatives. Man I wish scars had metal lowers.

Sandrock · March 3rd, 2011, 21:37

what cause bbs to break in a ggbr? cause i notice that w=once i installed a tightbore and new trigger box and safe switch i was getting bbs breaking.

also with ordering a new outer barrel from lets say airsoftbuddy.com is there a chance it will be siezed?

Ross · March 3rd, 2011, 23:34

Bb chopping is common on the scar. That's a magazine issue. I don't know what gun you have, so that information may not help. And is it an outer barrel extension? Or a whole new outer barrel?

Sandrock · March 4th, 2011, 02:05

i have the M4 CQBR. and it is a whole new barrel

Ross · March 4th, 2011, 17:24

what bbs are you using?

Sandrock · March 4th, 2011, 20:53

bbbastard .25

stope · March 8th, 2011, 05:37

I've tried to search this thread as it seems to fit my question but didn't find anything.

So, how can I upgrade WE AWSS M16 to shoot precisely up to 80 meters (i.e. 600 fps, 180 m/s)? I'd love to mod the M16 and create a Mk12 mod1 of it...

Also, I've found the way to make it semi-only, will the modded switch go full 180° and than shoot or will the gun function where the original semi state was?

Dire_Wolf · March 8th, 2011, 12:27

I don't think chopping BBs is a mag thing... that doesn't make sense. If you had just installed a new tightbore inner barrel, that would be the cause of it. As I recall, the tightbores cause the hopup to grip the BB more tightly, and the BB may not go into the barrel as easily, causing the bolt motion to chop the BB. Also, If you put the stock nozzle back on, instead of the NPAS nozzle that I assume you have installed, the chopping should go away. Fix is to use an emery cloth or fine file and work the end of the nozzle down slightly, to make the diameter smaller to fit into the hop and barrel assembly easier.

Stope, I'm not sure what you're asking, regarding the semi-only. There's a mod to the selector rod that will do that, but it's irreversable. Essentially you file off the nub that moves the disconnector out of the way for full-auto. Remove the full-auto sear as well, and you'll get the same operation in semi and auto.

Accuracy upgrades are similar to any airsoft gun. Tightbores and a properly dialed hopup will help. Gas guns, because of the inherent cooldown, will have consistency issues from shot to shot unless you wait for the mag to return to ambient temp. CO2 mags can help this a bit. Because the shots don't have perfectly consistent velocity based on the cooldown and slightly variable gas pressure, hopup effect will also be slightly variable.

stope · March 8th, 2011, 14:10

The selector rod regurally goes "safe" at 0°, "semi" at 90° and "auto" at 180° of its rotation.

Basically what I've tried to ask is, when I mod the selecor rod, will it stop at 90° or does it rotate the full bow to 180°. I'd love to see the second outcome as the RS works that way...

About the accuracy and range improvement, can I say that it is possible with the WE AWSS M4 or M16 then? I'm fairly new to GBBRs but I can understand the pros and cons of CO2 mags. I just needed to know how to tune the rifle to perform as the RS (as the sniper-spotter's primary).

Thanx

ebfud · March 8th, 2011, 16:25

hello all just wondering if anyone knew where i can get a new buffer retention pin mine is now jammed in the threaded portion, im guessing because of it being used alot. also anyone have a good way to secure the roll pin that holds the bolt release mine is always falling out during use which isnt fun to find. thanks

Disco_Dante · March 8th, 2011, 16:34

I might be able to help you with that pin. Pm me!

m102404 · March 8th, 2011, 16:35

Odd that the buffer retention pin is mangled...only gets like that if it backed out high enough to get smacked by the bolt carrier.

If any roll pin is too loose...you can put a nail into one end...put it on something hard (i.e. metal plate, manhole cover) and give it a whack with a hammer. Not too much. If you're putting a flared pin back in...becareful not to overstress the receiver part around the pin, it won't take much force to crack it.

Or machine a pin with a better fit (or ridges on one end to stay put)

Try airsoft buddy for parts....they seem to have everything itemized...or Velocity Arms, they may have spare parts on hand or a couple of M4's they've gutted for misc parts (they're in country and good guys).

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March 1st, 2011, 01:41	#691
Dire_Wolf Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta	still get the same recoil because the force is still transferred to the rest of the gun in a backwards direction, it just doesn't do it solely through the hinge plate, it does it through the back of the lower frame, and via the lock pin at the front to the main body. The bolt catch still works, there's maybe a 1-2mm difference between the t-block on the return spring and where the pvc block is. I find the catch doesn't catch quite as COMPLETELY as otherwise, and can sometimes slip at a bump, but it's not a big deal. So because there's a difference, it doesn't actually hit the t-block, and there's only minor strain on part 66 due to the back of the lower assembly being notched into both it and part 27. I can't actually say for certain what the gap is, just because it only hits when everything is installed. __________________ Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2

March 1st, 2011, 02:01	#692
Ross Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Winnipeg	Ok. That's interesting. Did you use the same measurements as that guy who made the block out of the red stuff? And what is the lock pin at the front of the body? Is this what the bolt hits on it's way back from recoil? __________________

March 2nd, 2011, 18:42	#693
Dire_Wolf Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta	lock pin on the front is the one that you push through the lower frame to keep it on the rest of the body... when you pull it out, the lower frame detaches from the main body. my scar had this block when I got it, so I can't say whether those dimensions are the same as earlier in the thread, I can't measure accurately the depth, only the width and length. __________________ Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2

March 3rd, 2011, 01:25	#694
Ross Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Winnipeg	OH! I get it now. Lol. So there is pressure on the lock pin. I wonder if there are any alternatives. Man I wish scars had metal lowers. __________________

March 3rd, 2011, 21:37	#695
Sandrock Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Kitchener	what cause bbs to break in a ggbr? cause i notice that w=once i installed a tightbore and new trigger box and safe switch i was getting bbs breaking. also with ordering a new outer barrel from lets say airsoftbuddy.com is there a chance it will be siezed? __________________

March 3rd, 2011, 23:34	#696
Ross Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Winnipeg	Bb chopping is common on the scar. That's a magazine issue. I don't know what gun you have, so that information may not help. And is it an outer barrel extension? Or a whole new outer barrel? __________________

March 4th, 2011, 02:05	#697
Sandrock Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Kitchener	i have the M4 CQBR. and it is a whole new barrel __________________

March 4th, 2011, 17:24	#698
Ross Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Winnipeg	what bbs are you using? __________________

March 4th, 2011, 20:53	#699
Sandrock Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Kitchener	bbbastard .25 __________________

March 8th, 2011, 05:37	#700
stope Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011	I've tried to search this thread as it seems to fit my question but didn't find anything. So, how can I upgrade WE AWSS M16 to shoot precisely up to 80 meters (i.e. 600 fps, 180 m/s)? I'd love to mod the M16 and create a Mk12 mod1 of it... Also, I've found the way to make it semi-only, will the modded switch go full 180° and than shoot or will the gun function where the original semi state was?

March 8th, 2011, 12:27	#701
Dire_Wolf Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta	I don't think chopping BBs is a mag thing... that doesn't make sense. If you had just installed a new tightbore inner barrel, that would be the cause of it. As I recall, the tightbores cause the hopup to grip the BB more tightly, and the BB may not go into the barrel as easily, causing the bolt motion to chop the BB. Also, If you put the stock nozzle back on, instead of the NPAS nozzle that I assume you have installed, the chopping should go away. Fix is to use an emery cloth or fine file and work the end of the nozzle down slightly, to make the diameter smaller to fit into the hop and barrel assembly easier. Stope, I'm not sure what you're asking, regarding the semi-only. There's a mod to the selector rod that will do that, but it's irreversable. Essentially you file off the nub that moves the disconnector out of the way for full-auto. Remove the full-auto sear as well, and you'll get the same operation in semi and auto. Accuracy upgrades are similar to any airsoft gun. Tightbores and a properly dialed hopup will help. Gas guns, because of the inherent cooldown, will have consistency issues from shot to shot unless you wait for the mag to return to ambient temp. CO2 mags can help this a bit. Because the shots don't have perfectly consistent velocity based on the cooldown and slightly variable gas pressure, hopup effect will also be slightly variable. __________________ Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2

March 8th, 2011, 14:10	#702
stope Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011	The selector rod regurally goes "safe" at 0°, "semi" at 90° and "auto" at 180° of its rotation. Basically what I've tried to ask is, when I mod the selecor rod, will it stop at 90° or does it rotate the full bow to 180°. I'd love to see the second outcome as the RS works that way... About the accuracy and range improvement, can I say that it is possible with the WE AWSS M4 or M16 then? I'm fairly new to GBBRs but I can understand the pros and cons of CO2 mags. I just needed to know how to tune the rifle to perform as the RS (as the sniper-spotter's primary). Thanx

March 8th, 2011, 16:34	#704
Disco_Dante Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: GTA	I might be able to help you with that pin. Pm me! __________________ Not for glory, nor riches, nor honours, but for freedom alone, which no good man gives up except with his life.

March 8th, 2011, 16:35	#705
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Odd that the buffer retention pin is mangled...only gets like that if it backed out high enough to get smacked by the bolt carrier. If any roll pin is too loose...you can put a nail into one end...put it on something hard (i.e. metal plate, manhole cover) and give it a whack with a hammer. Not too much. If you're putting a flared pin back in...becareful not to overstress the receiver part around the pin, it won't take much force to crack it. Or machine a pin with a better fit (or ridges on one end to stay put) Try airsoft buddy for parts....they seem to have everything itemized...or Velocity Arms, they may have spare parts on hand or a couple of M4's they've gutted for misc parts (they're in country and good guys).

WETTI/AWSS - M4/SCAR/HK416 - Technical Summary Thread

Upgrades & Modifications