WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

mmm...it works okay without the slide. But as soon as I put on the slide, the trigger would only work for one shot and then the trigger wouldnt fully return...so the I took the slide off and it would seem the trigger bar was dislocated from the sear

Sounds like the BBU is not tripping the trigger bar

[e-luder]

I'm still confused. lol.

So...
Does the hammer charge after the first shot?
ie. your gun doesn't vent out after the first pull?
ie. your still getting some slide action but no trigger response after the first pull?

My guess is his trigger bar is probably riding over that little tab on the sear instead of pushing it to get the sear to release the hammer.

[Animalmother]

Is there a way i can reinforce the screw hole with jb weld without permantly affixing the chassis?
I have chosen to run the slide until it explodes but i don't feel the same way about the frame .

[Danke]

I'm pretty sure you can get the chassis out with a heat wrench when the time comes.

[jjkfeng]

Does the hammer charge after the first shot?

Mostly, no, not with the slide on.

Your gun doesn't vent out after the first pull?

What does that mean?

Your still getting some slide action but no trigger response after the first pull?

Mostly, no trigger response after the first pull, a few times/occasionally though, it works for 2-3 pulls.


My guess is his trigger bar is probably riding over that little tab on the sear instead of pushing it to get the sear to release the hammer.
IT SEEMS LIKE THIS! Exactly this! How fix?

Thanks

[Animalmother]

Originally Posted by Danke

I'm pretty sure you can get the chassis out with a heat wrench when the time comes.

I was debating about JB welding it, or at least reinforcing it with JB weld.
Anyways, do I need a valve key to install the nineball rubber top seal in the mag?

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

Does the hammer charge after the first shot?

Mostly, no, not with the slide on.

Your gun doesn't vent out after the first pull?

What does that mean?

Your still getting some slide action but no trigger response after the first pull?

Mostly, no trigger response after the first pull, a few times/occasionally though, it works for 2-3 pulls.


My guess is his trigger bar is probably riding over that little tab on the sear instead of pushing it to get the sear to release the hammer.
IT SEEMS LIKE THIS! Exactly this! How fix?

Thanks

Now im even more confused, its like following a broken story. So now what you are saying is that after the first shot, the hammer is not cocked correct?

If this is the case, then the trigger bar is riding over or pushing the tab on the sear which prevents the sear in catching the hammer, which is why the hammer is not cocked after the first shot.

Your explanations are vague in nature, its best if I actually see the gun in person to diagnose it properly and to fix it.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by turok_t

Now im even more confused, its like following a broken story. So now what you are saying is that after the first shot, the hammer is not cocked correct?

If this is the case, then the trigger bar is riding over or pushing the tab on the sear which prevents the sear in catching the hammer, which is why the hammer is not cocked after the first shot.

Your explanations are vague in nature, its best if I actually see the gun in person to diagnose it properly and to fix it.

Either that, or his BBU is shot to hell...

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Animalmother

I was debating about JB welding it, or at least reinforcing it with JB weld.
Anyways, do I need a valve key to install the nineball rubber top seal in the mag?

You can still pry the JB Welded chasis apart if you wanted.

Just get a tiny screw driver and pry it apart. LOL

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

Does the hammer charge after the first shot?

Mostly, no, not with the slide on.

Your gun doesn't vent out after the first pull?

What does that mean?

Your still getting some slide action but no trigger response after the first pull?

Mostly, no trigger response after the first pull, a few times/occasionally though, it works for 2-3 pulls.


My guess is his trigger bar is probably riding over that little tab on the sear instead of pushing it to get the sear to release the hammer.
IT SEEMS LIKE THIS! Exactly this! How fix?

Thanks

Mostly, no, not with the slide on.

See that to me indicates a BBU issue.

Mostly, no trigger response after the first pull, a few times/occasionally though, it works for 2-3 pulls.

yes...Bbecause your hammer is not charged, nothing will happen if you stroke the trigger.


Next time you dont get a trigger response, immediately eject the magazine. DON"T PULL THE TRIGGER.
Then try and REMOVE the slide. If you're hammer is not charged, you shouldn't be able to do it. If it is, the slide will come off naturally.

IF you're hammer is charged but nothing happens when your trigger is pulled, then your trigger bar is riding over the sear tab and won't release your hammer. It will also keep your trigger from returning to the charged state since there is no slide action to trip the trigger bar nub at the top. It won't return to a fire-ready state.

[jw4563]

Has anyone else notice the guarder hammer springs make it SIGNIFICANTLY harder to rack the slide on a G18.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by jw4563

Has anyone else notice the guarder hammer springs make it SIGNIFICANTLY harder to rack the slide on a G18.

How SIGNIFICANT are we talking aboot?

It should increase the tension in which the hammer needs to be pulled/push to to charge. But It shouldn't make it SIGNIFICANTLY harder. Lol.

Stronger springs = increased resistance

[jw4563]

Originally Posted by e-luder

How SIGNIFICANT are we talking aboot?

It should increase the tension in which the hammer needs to be pulled/push to to charge. But It shouldn't make it SIGNIFICANTLY harder. Lol.

Stronger springs = increased resistance

I have a stock g17 for comparison. The g17 is very smooth to rack, almost cant feel the hammer. The g18 with the hammer spring, there is a noticeable amount of force required to get pass the hammer.

The gun can still shoot through it, but i feel its causing an increased in pressure inside the nozzle in order to get pass the hammer. This might be why my guarder nozzles keep breaking (albeit their reputation wasnt that good to begin with).

Also, any other tips to prevent light strikes aside from hammer springs? Ive had cases in Socal hot weather where the valves just refuse to open. I even tried a 1 sec fill of gas and my gun still cant get the valve open. This is all with propane on a g18 with guarder hammer spring.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by jw4563

I have a stock g17 for comparison. The g17 is very smooth to rack, almost cant feel the hammer. The g18 with the hammer spring, there is a noticeable amount of force required to get pass the hammer.

The gun can still shoot through it, but i feel its causing an increased in pressure inside the nozzle in order to get pass the hammer. This might be why my guarder nozzles keep breaking (albeit their reputation wasnt that good to begin with).

Also, any other tips to prevent light strikes aside from hammer springs? Ive had cases in Socal hot weather where the valves just refuse to open. I even tried a 1 sec fill of gas and my gun still cant get the valve open. This is all with propane on a g18 with guarder hammer spring.

Your theory is valid IF the loading muzzle CAN NOT retract and THERE IS NO SLIDE ACTION.

Remember, the action will trip the magazine valve disconnector to stop the flow of air coming from the magazine. Furthermore, If your gun's BBU is working like it should, the action should also force your loading muzzle to retract once it reaches a certain point during the rear stroke. Thus, it will depressurize it self.

Plus, you've have to have zero air leaks in your piston head to for it explode the way your describing.

Your Guarder muzzle is breaking because it can't handle repeated impacts in successive rates. Polycarbonate is great at absorbing ONE huge shock but having repeated impacts, it fails.

There's a whole bunch of places that the G18c loading muzzle hits on the BBU. It's a matter of time before one of these places begin to crack.

One of mine was completely severed in half.

Light strikes....

Use a Shooter's Design Hammer spring instead of Guarder ones.
The Shooter's Design springs survived a magazine heated up to about 45 degrees. Against the Guarder one that failed at 34.5 degrees for some reason. lol.

The only other way I can see preventing any light strikes from happening is if you switch to a lower pressurized power source like Duster gas....

Or unless you manually cool down your magazine a bit before you shoot it.
Run it under a cold tap, put it in the fridge. I dunno. Whatever floats your boat.
Just make sure you don't freeze it. lol.
And make sure that it has room to actually cool down when your actually firing it....

I dunno.
Maybe there are other ways people try to avoid them but that would be my suggestion...

[Animalmother]

has anyone ever shut off the blow back action?