FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Yes, measure just the width of the grip from one side of the panel to the other, a single stack 1911 may be thicker or the same as a double stacked 1911 (2011), or a Glock. But if you measure the circumference, you'll find that 1911's are generally smaller in that dimension, and is what people refer to more as a smaller grip.

If you want to reduce width further, bust out a piece of sandpaper or a file, and put some elbow grease in to it!

Thanks for the info again Brian!

I'm not very confident about filing away the inside plane of the grip panel in order to reduce the width of the TM grip..given that it has a metal face with plastic sides. Might do it with an aftermarket grip. :P

Are real grips more expensive than 'airsoft' grips? If I'm gonna get new grips for my MEU anyway and if the pricing's the same I'll rather find a way to get real steel stuff with the same amount of cash rather than spending it on airsoft replicas.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Are real grips more expensive than 'airsoft' grips? If I'm gonna get new grips for my MEU anyway and if the pricing's the same I'll rather find a way to get real steel stuff with the same amount of cash rather than spending it on airsoft replicas.

Might want to consider doing that research on your own, because I don't know what your prices on airsoft grips are like. It also depends on what specific models you're comparing, and what shipping costs you'll have to factor in. In some instances, some real steel grips are cheaper than airsoft grips.
When you factor in panel weights of airsoft grips, in many cases, airsoft grips can be more expensive.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Might want to consider doing that research on your own, because I don't know what your prices on airsoft grips are like. It also depends on what specific models you're comparing, and what shipping costs you'll have to factor in. In some instances, some real steel grips are cheaper than airsoft grips.
When you factor in panel weights of airsoft grips, in many cases, airsoft grips can be more expensive.

Yeah sorry; stupid question on my part. Apparently DENTrinity and TMC sell real steel grips. I'll check it out after exams.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

b) A Shooters Design slide that has a barrel bushing notch, Shooters Design barrel bushing set, & Shooters Design straight barrel setup. All of these parts use proprietary dimensions, so you can not use parts from other brands/guns. No Military Model markings/styling exist at this time for this brand.

Hi Brian,

That quote was from your previous post advising someone about making their hi capa look like a 1911.

I want to ask whether the barrel is proprietary if I use a SD bushing (because of the outer diameter of the barrel / inner diameter of the bushing)? I'm planning to build another 1911 with the SD Kimber TLE/RL slide and from your advice above it seems like I can't use anything else other than the SD recoil spring guide, bushing and recoil spring plug.

My problem is the barrel itself because all the SD barrels are the ones that tilt right? I'm planning to run CO2 with the 1911 I'm building and I don't want to damage the SD Kimber slide with the strong blowback the gun will experience (the broken 'lug catch' on the slide that you explained about in your first post).

I've found that ProG4 makes a fixed barrel and was wondering whether it'll work with the SD bushing. I don't want it to be too small so that the barrel will wobble and if the barrel's too thick then it won't fit through the bushing at all.

Thanks again for all your previous help!:smile:

[ILLusion]

SD straight barrel parts are proprietary. You will not be able to use Marui 1911-spec straight barrels with an SD barrel bushing.

If you wanted to do that, I'd suggest you ditch the SD Kimber slide, and instead, get the Kimber Custom TLE/RL II slide I designed with ProG4. It has a Marui 1911 spec barrel bushing notch cut in to it. Pick up any Marui 1911 barrel bushing and outer barrel, and you will be able to fit it all together. The only thing that would need some work, is that you will need to source out a 1911 spring plug / recoil rod bushing, and turn it down to length. The Marui 1911 spring plug is a couple mm longer than the Hi-Capa, thus, you will need to turn it down to length. Else, you risk snapping the barrel bushing.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

SD straight barrel parts are proprietary. You will not be able to use Marui 1911-spec straight barrels with an SD barrel bushing.

If you wanted to do that, I'd suggest you ditch the SD Kimber slide, and instead, get the Kimber Custom TLE/RL II slide I designed with ProG4. It has a Marui 1911 spec barrel bushing notch cut in to it. Pick up any Marui 1911 barrel bushing and outer barrel, and you will be able to fit it all together. The only thing that would need some work, is that you will need to source out a 1911 spring plug / recoil rod bushing, and turn it down to length. The Marui 1911 spring plug is a couple mm longer than the Hi-Capa, thus, you will need to turn it down to length. Else, you risk snapping the barrel bushing.

Thanks for the reply!

The Kimber slide you described is exactly what I wanted! I never knew you had designed a Kimber TLE/RL slide before!

Too bad ProG4's website is down for me at the moment...I'll check out the website later for the pics (I think Captain KK had it on the website?)

Can you tell me whether the Kimber slide is designed for 5.1 or 1911? I'm assuming there isn't much of a difference other than the cut for the sights. I had my eyes set on the SD Kimber slide before (was actually going for the Airsoft Surgeon Kimber slide....I'm flexible with the looks as long as it looks like a Kimber) because it comes with the Kimber sights (dunno what the actual name is...Real Steel terminology/names aren't common knowledge for me because you can't really get RS guns in HK) and the recoil spring plug. I've been looking at a cached version of ProG4's site just then and I think I saw the Kimber slide, and it seems to come with the recoil spring plug. My other question is whether it comes with the Kimber sights as well?

I'm planning to buy a KJW 1911 JUST for the lower frame and the CO2 mag (don't want a double-stack gun, and the KJW's frame is cut to fit the CO2 cartridge) and use aftermarket parts for everything inside the slide assembly. I'm also planning to grind down the tang of the 1911 lower frame to fit a beavertail grip (alas I have no idea on how a dremel works and I don't have one, so sandpaper + saw's all I gotta work with) and spray-paint the lower frame tan so that it looks similar to the Kimber Custom Covert II. pistol controls will be replaced by NOVA aftermarket parts (all kimber style + nova three hole trigger, everything in black..and hopefully they fit the KJW frame) and buy a ProG4 hammer set, AS sear spring and spring disconnector to improve my trigger pull.

I've calculated that I'll probably need to spend HKD 7000 (around CAD 916) and a little elbow grease to get a skirmishable CO2 pistol, which I can run it during the abnormally cold winters HK have been experiencing over the past few weeks now. This build would be nearly half as expensive as my projected build with my current TM MEU (with full NOVA parts, etc.) which would cost me around HKD 12.8k (~CAD 1675) and theoretically should perform better than the TM MEU build since it'll run on CO2 (regulated by a RATECH NPAS for CQB).

Any comment's on what I can improve for my build? I know that you don't have much experience with the KJW 1911s but anything you can nitpick for me (if you have the time!) would be greatly appreciated!

Oh and one more thing; I've been googling the difference between CO2 mag hammer valves and GG/HFC134a valves and some people have said that high flow valves for GG/134a would not hold up to the pressures of CO2 whilst others have said that the CO2 valves are the same as the GG/134a valves. What's your take on this? I really want to know because if I can use high flow valves for the CO2 mags, then I can generate a higher FPS, which leads to a higher range of FPS I can adjust with the NPAS. I can therefore set my FPS as high as possible for plinking (keeping in mind HK's legal limit) and bring the FPS back down to 1J for CQB games (and maybe 1.3-1.5J for outdoors).

Annnnd thanks again after I bored you with all the text? You and everybody in this thread have helped me understand the TM 1911 (and I suppose the hi capa) platform more than any other airsoft threads out there!

[ILLusion]

ProG4 does have it on their website, but the photos will show "GOLD MATCH TEN II" markings on it instead of the CUSTOM TLE/RL II markings.

The slide (like all listed on ProG4's site) is a Hi-Capa 5.1 slide, so you will need to find sights that will fit. I personally use Nine Ball combat sights.

The recoil rod bushing it comes with is not the proper type you need if you want to do a barrel bushing setup. It will not allow the barrel bushing to lock on. This is why you need to get a 1911 recoil rod bushing, and turn it down to length.

As for the KJW lower frame, I'd suggest otherwise. It's not built very well, poor manufacturing quality, and it uses a proprietary sear disconnector made from cheap materials. I've seen this disconnect lever break on multiple occasions, and finding a replacement won't be easy.

I'd recommend the ProG4 railed frame instead (which I also designed for them). It's a Kimber RL style frame with an integrated rail. It can handle CO2 better than the KJW one can.

As for the flow valves... I have minimal experience with CO2, so I couldn't give you much advice there. I'd say to try it and let us know what your findings are.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

ProG4 does have it on their website, but the photos will show "GOLD MATCH TEN II" markings on it instead of the CUSTOM TLE/RL II markings.

The slide (like all listed on ProG4's site) is a Hi-Capa 5.1 slide, so you will need to find sights that will fit. I personally use Nine Ball combat sights.

The recoil rod bushing it comes with is not the proper type you need if you want to do a barrel bushing setup. It will not allow the barrel bushing to lock on. This is why you need to get a 1911 recoil rod bushing, and turn it down to length.

As for the KJW lower frame, I'd suggest otherwise. It's not built very well, poor manufacturing quality, and it uses a proprietary sear disconnector made from cheap materials. I've seen this disconnect lever break on multiple occasions, and finding a replacement won't be easy.

I'd recommend the ProG4 railed frame instead (which I also designed for them). It's a Kimber RL style frame with an integrated rail. It can handle CO2 better than the KJW one can.

As for the flow valves... I have minimal experience with CO2, so I couldn't give you much advice there. I'd say to try it and let us know what your findings are.

Thanks for the info!

Yeah I saw the Kimber Gold Match slide on their website when the ProG4 website worked a few hours earlier (albeit really slow). It's the same one as the Airsoft Surgeon Kimber slide right? I've read on arnies that ProG4 is the OEM of Airsoft Surgeon aftermarket parts.

Actually the slide itself is not the top priority since I only want to build a reliable CO2 pistol that have trades on it. I needed the KJW lower frame because of the groove which allows their CO2 mags to be used as the 1911 frame itself (without the cut) cannot fit the CO2 cartridge. You mentioned that you and ProG4's Kimber lower frame (w/ rails) can hold up to CO2. Do you mean that the lower frame have the groove cut out to fit the CO2 cartridge or was there another method in which CO2 can be used in Green Gas mag? I know madbull made an adaptor for those CO2 cartridges but I thought they were only meant for certian kinds of valves (grenades, AS tanaka shotgun slugs, etc.) and green gas fill valves can't hold in the pressures of CO2.

A pic of the groove I'm talking about: here
It's a pic from RW's website for the KJW MEU (the same groove is on the 1911 to fit the CO2 cartridge)

Since the KJW frame uses a proprietary sear disconnector (quick google searched also verified....but I've always thought the KJW was a 100% 'clone' of the marui system...), this means that I have to drop this project unless the ProG4 lower frame have the cut for the CO2 cartridges such that I can use KJW CO2 mags. If you know of an alternative method to use CO2 for 1911s, please enlighten me!

I could've saved the trouble by switching the base gun to a hi capa (2011) but I really really want a 1911 CO2 gun that uses the marui system. The only other available option is to buy the inokatsu 1911...

Thanks again for all your help!

[ILLusion]

Apologies, this entire time I thought you were talking about using the KJW KP-05 Kimber RL style Hi-Capa style dual stack mid frame to build a Hi-Capa.

Ignore everything I'd previously said about the ProG4 part.

I have very little experience (read: "none") with the KJW 1911, so I can not give you specifics on compatibility, but from what I have read, they are NOT Marui compatible. I couldn't tell you what would and wouldn't fit.

You will need to research this further before you put any additional consideration in to parts.

If you want a 100% Marui compatible CO2 1911... then I can only suggest to wait for the Inokatsu.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Apologies, this entire time I thought you were talking about using the KJW KP-05 Kimber RL style Hi-Capa style dual stack mid frame to build a Hi-Capa.

Ignore everything I'd previously said about the ProG4 part.

I have very little experience (read: "none") with the KJW 1911, so I can not give you specifics on compatibility, but from what I have read, they are NOT Marui compatible. I couldn't tell you what would and wouldn't fit.

You will need to research this further before you put any additional consideration in to parts.

If you want a 100% Marui compatible CO2 1911... then I can only suggest to wait for the Inokatsu.

No need to apologise! I guess I didn't explain myself clearly eariler before, sorry!

Ah well, I guess I'll drop the idea I'll stick with upgrading my MEU to shoot as hard as possible with green gas.

As a side note, I did a little Christmas shopping today; upgrade KM high flow valves to my MEU mags and Guarder gas routers (I have a feeling they provide a better air seal...even if not; they look MUCH more durable than the original TM ones). I can get 14 bbs out of each mag (with slide locking back after last shot) with the following gas-related upgrades only:

SD nozzle, NB 6.03 112.5mm Tightbore, NB dyna-piston head (used the stiffer floating valve spring that came with it) and NB hop rubber; plus the guarder gas router and KM high flow valve for the mags.

Shooting speed was around 2-2.5 bbs per sec. Unfortunately I don't have a chrono, so I don't know what the FPS variation is.

My previous setup with the stock valves and floating valve spring (all other upgrades kept) allowed me to shoot 18 bbs with the same shooting speed. With only a 4 bbs decrease in capacity and I assume a significant FPS increase; in my opinion those KM high flow valves are worth it even for thin single stack mags since it'll allow your pistol to hit farther ranges and still maintain enough bb capacity for skirmishing.

Btw; I've tried googling for an english manual (or instructions) for the KM high flow valves in relation to the shims and the o-ring provided in the package. I understand the shims should allow the valve button to sit higher so that the hammer can strike such that the valve will open more to allow more gas to flow through the mag to the gun. Does anyone have any idea how the shims can be installed and what does the extra o-ring do? It's also really confusing that the 2 KM valves I got from Tokyo Model Company (they only had 2) came with a bit of grease smeared on the valve opening and came with extra o-rings whereas the one I got from DENTrinity had no grease and no extra o-ring...

[turok_t]

So I managed to get some of those Brazo lightning rods from the states and wow, do they ever glow bright.. However, after I cut off a small piece and made a mushroom head with a lighter, the glow significantly drops..Does anyone or Brian, have any suggestions on how to maintain the glow after cutting a piece? Here are some pics:

[Daiviet]

don't mushroom head it. simple. or try to polish it to your hearts content.

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by Daiviet

don't mushroom head it. simple. or try to polish it to your hearts content.

Even when i dont mushroom it, and just cut it as is, its still not bright.. the problem is that the surface area of the rod has reduced after u cut it, hence, it cant pick up as much light..

[Daiviet]

then glue the whole rod to your sights

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Btw; I've tried googling for an english manual (or instructions) for the KM high flow valves in relation to the shims and the o-ring provided in the package. I understand the shims should allow the valve button to sit higher so that the hammer can strike such that the valve will open more to allow more gas to flow through the mag to the gun. Does anyone have any idea how the shims can be installed and what does the extra o-ring do? It's also really confusing that the 2 KM valves I got from Tokyo Model Company (they only had 2) came with a bit of grease smeared on the valve opening and came with extra o-rings whereas the one I got from DENTrinity had no grease and no extra o-ring...

Unscrew the strike face from the shaft. Place the shims under the strike face. Screw back together. I'd recommend some loctite to seal her up.

The extra O-ring is just a replacement in case it crosses your threads and cuts it up.

Originally Posted by turok_t

So I managed to get some of those Brazo lightning rods from the states and wow, do they ever glow bright.. However, after I cut off a small piece and made a mushroom head with a lighter, the glow significantly drops..Does anyone or Brian, have any suggestions on how to maintain the glow after cutting a piece?

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0503.htm

Originally Posted by BrazosCustom

Maintenance on your front sight consists mainly of keeping it clean and bright. A little information about how fiber optic material works will explain why. True fiber optic rod is composed of a core layer of material that is impregnated with a fluorescing compound that reacts to light. This fluorescing compound is surrounded by a thin sheathing layer that has a different index of refraction than the compound. Ultraviolet light enters through the exposed sides of the fiber. The light is trapped within the fiber because the difference in refractive indexes between the core and the sheath do not allow the light to reflect back out through the sheath. The UV light causes the material in the core to fluoresce and emit visible light out the end of the tube where there is no sheath. The longer the tube, the more light is captured and emitted out the end. One benefit of the physics of the fiber optic is that on a cloudy day you still have lots of UV light available to light up the fiber.

As you can see, the key to the fiber optic functioning properly is the outside sheath. This is what lets in the UV light and then traps it so that it can come out only on the ends. Therefore, it is critical to keep this sheath intact and clean. A dimming fiber optic means the sheath is either dirty and can’t let in as much light or it has been damaged and is not longer able to trap light. Following are some tips to help you keep your fiber optic bright:

1. Keep the fiber as clean as possible but do not do anything that deteriorates the sheath.
2. When you install replacement fiber, take care to keep the sheath intact as much as possible.
3. Stay away from chemicals harmful to plastics such as brake cleaner and gun scrubber for cleaning the fiber and when cleaning your gun.
4. Replace the fiber every once in a while when it gets too dirty to clean, or when the sheath deteriorates. I recommend you replace the fiber before each match just like the battery in a dot sight.

Installation of replacement fiber is an easy operation:

1. Remove the broken fiber from the sight.
2. Insert replacement fiber from the muzzle end and leave approx. 1/16 inch sticking out (the more you leave sticking out the bigger the dot).
3. Melt the end with a cigarette lighter.
4. Hold the melted end tight against the sight and cut the end closest to the muzzle, leaving 1/16 overhang.
5. Melt the muzzle end of the fiber while holding the fiber tightly against the sight. It is important to make sure that the fiber is snug in the sight with no play back and forth. A loose fiber will break very quickly.

It may be a little more trouble to use a fiber optic sight, but most shooters will agree that the benefits significantly outweigh the extra effort. A good, bright fiber optic sight will help you see the front sight, get you on target quicker, and speed up target acquisition.

Originally Posted by turok_t

Even when i dont mushroom it, and just cut it as is, its still not bright.. the problem is that the surface area of the rod has reduced after u cut it, hence, it cant pick up as much light..

Well... yes, that's the basic nature of the rod. They collect light along the length. So when you cut off an 18mm piece to use, it won't be as bright as a 2 mile long piece of it.

You're comparing a grape to a watermelon. Watermelons contain more juice. nom.