WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[daishi]

Wow...could a mod (or TIGER) go back and delete quoting ALL OF THE OP to post a picture with a sentence?

Jebus.

[-_-]

I'm about to modify a used one that I'm about to purchase.

Here's what I want it to look like -

http://imgur.com/gallery/pPtmK

I'm picking up a Tokyo Marui G17 for 90 used. What parts would be recommended to make it look exactly like this without sacrificing power/efficiency/durability/etc?

Reason being because the one in the image is a KWA G18c and I'm not sure if I get the same parts it will be compatible with my Marui.

Someone help me out please, thanks!~

[Showe22]

I'm in the process of reading all 67 pages S I prepare to start investing in upgrade parts. I bought my g17 from mach1airsoft for $190 plus tax, they had a wicked sale.

Unfortunately my front screw post broke before I even had a chance to game the pistol. I knew the ABS plastic was weak, and that a frame would be my first replacement.

I cannot find a Guarder frame anywhere in Canada. Airsoftparts.ca is closed until November 1, and I'm not sure if they even have those frames available.

If I can't find a Guarder frame, what do other people suggest? I'm not interested in JB welding my front chassis to the stock frame if I need it for a new lower.

[Sputmilk]

B squared airsoft.

[Showe22]

Thanks Sputmilk, I forgot to look into B2 airsoft. They had some left in stock and I ordered one. I appreciate the reminder

[Showe22]

I recently put an Agency Arms slide kit on my guarded frame and it was almost a drop-in ready set up. I had to file off the bumps on the front chassis for a smooth slide cycle, but I'm still having a problem with the rear chassis.

As shown in the photos, the blow back housing unit seems to catch on a portion of the rear chassis. I'm not sure where and don't want to make any permanent mods without some feedback. The slide kit is lifting up off the frame as the bbu passes over the rear.


Thanks for any help you can give.

[kazuya85]

Hi guys, great thread!
After reading all the 67 pages, i still have some question...

- i have a complete g17 marui mech. I was wondering if i can put it in a guarder g19 kit and if my rear chassis will fit the g19 frame.

- guarder g17 steel slide seems to have a different front sight "hole"...my gunsmodify sights set did not work with it, the shape was just different...did anyone put that sights set on a guarder slide, steel or aluminium, successfully?

[alchemy]

anyone figure out how to safely get the fake pins out of the Guarder Frame?

[Floreos]

I have a all stock marui g17 I am using propane with that I am trying to preserve as much as possible.

I've been told the front post will blow up eventually, so to stop that i have filled the empty space around the post with JB weld flush so the safety is still working.

Will this realistically save the post, or not really?

What else can i do to preserve this post. what else can i do reinforcement wise anywhere else?

I ideally would like to not buy any upgrades for it. I feel like a stronger spring or metal slide will just increase wear some where else.

If there is a way to decrease kick, or make some rubber stoppers I would be fore that. I first and foremost just want it to shoot the bb's with out breaking.

[RainyEyes]

Originally Posted by Floreos

I have a all stock marui g17 I am using propane with that I am trying to preserve as much as possible.

I've been told the front post will blow up eventually, so to stop that i have filled the empty space around the post with JB weld flush so the safety is still working.

Are you saying that you have done it already or that you intend to do that?

In theory it's sound but the problem isn't the area around the post that will prevent it from breaking but the actual post itself. The screw threads aren't very thick and they don't go very deep into the frame itself.

Typical TM front post screw on left, my personal aftermarket m1/m2 screw on the right:


There's a hell of a lot of real estate where the screw is but TM designed it to be shallow for some reason. Making it deeper will make the screw act like an anchor and send more of the energy into the frame itself rather than the post. Notice how in this post, all of them crumble and separate into pie fragments: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...&postcount=112

Drilling the hole and filling it up w/ jb weld with a better screw is still experimental so I would actually advise against it unless you are super rich or don't mind trying it on a broken gun anyway.

What you could also do is use loctite or jb weld on the screw itself inside the hole so that it will sit permanently flushed as 1 piece into the frame. When the front post braces for impact from your slide's recoil it will pull on the chassis of the gun which tugs on the screw and that unleashes force onto the front post. By filling in the gaps of the front post you make it so that you're pulling on the whole front of the lower frame instead of just the post. Filling the surrounding area will only protect the surrounding area of the post from being pulled away. There is now a greater risk of the front post's screw threading to be pulled away along with the post.

Pic for reference of typical px4 frame failure:


You will need to put JB weld inside as well as outside the post to make it more secure. Doing this will undoubtably make it more difficult for future repairs and replacements.

Also don't get oil or any kind of lubricant on JB weld. That stuff seems to make some plastics swell and JB weld might also react to it.

[Floreos]

Originally Posted by RainyEyes

Are you saying that you have done it already or that you intend to do that?

In theory it's sound but the problem isn't the area around the post that will prevent it from breaking but the actual post itself. The screw threads aren't very thick and they don't go very deep into the frame itself.

Typical TM front post screw on left, my personal aftermarket m1/m2 screw on the right:


There's a hell of a lot of real estate where the screw is but TM designed it to be shallow for some reason. Making it deeper will make the screw act like an anchor and send more of the energy into the frame itself rather than the post. Notice how in this post, all of them crumble and separate into pie fragments: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...&postcount=112

Drilling the hole and filling it up w/ jb weld with a better screw is still experimental so I would actually advise against it unless you are super rich or don't mind trying it on a broken gun anyway.

What you could also do is use loctite or jb weld on the screw itself inside the hole so that it will sit permanently flushed as 1 piece into the frame. When the front post braces for impact from your slide's recoil it will pull on the chassis of the gun which tugs on the screw and that unleashes force onto the front post. By filling in the gaps of the front post you make it so that you're pulling on the whole front of the lower frame instead of just the post. Filling the surrounding area will only protect the surrounding area of the post from being pulled away. There is now a greater risk of the front post's screw threading to be pulled away along with the post.

Pic for reference of typical px4 frame failure:


You will need to put JB weld inside as well as outside the post to make it more secure. Doing this will undoubtably make it more difficult for future repairs and replacements.

Also don't get oil or any kind of lubricant on JB weld. That stuff seems to make some plastics swell and JB weld might also react to it.

I have already filled around the post to make it flush with the rest of the frame. So it seems pretty good for now. I'm sure I can rig something up in the future if the post does still fail. I might try something like a heli coil and just permanently stop the safety from functioning.

Are there any metal inserts i can find somewhere? To put in as a replacement?

As far as the frame goes i havnt heard of anything else going?

[Kayakee]

Wow, I just bought a TM G18C and what I found????
This fantastic thread.
I never saw a so complete informations content anywhere. Bravo

I'm a newbie in airsoft. I must admit that I never played a game yet but it should happen this weekend. Yes I did a common mistake, I bought an airsoft without trying the game Lollll.

But I'm not worried. I known that I will like it.

Quick question base on the first part of this thread.

It is mentionned to use duster gaz instead of Green gaz for plastic slider if we want durability and this is the case for the TM G18C stock.

However, my TM G18C specification say to use Green Gaz.

Because the post started in 2012, may be TM made some modifications since then.

So, should I use green gaz?

[Kungpow]

Originally Posted by Kayakee

Wow, I just bought a TM G18C and what I found????
This fantastic thread.
I never saw a so complete informations content anywhere. Bravo

I'm a newbie in airsoft. I must admit that I never played a game yet but it should happen this weekend. Yes I did a common mistake, I bought an airsoft without trying the game Lollll.

But I'm not worried. I known that I will like it.

Quick question base on the first part of this thread.

It is mentionned to use duster gaz instead of Green gaz for plastic slider if we want durability and this is the case for the TM G18C stock.

However, my TM G18C specification say to use Green Gaz.

Because the post started in 2012, may be TM made some modifications since then.

So, should I use green gaz?

I would recommend you use green gas for TM airsoft pistols.

[Detriix]

Originally Posted by Kayakee

Wow, I just bought a TM G18C and what I found????
This fantastic thread.
I never saw a so complete informations content anywhere. Bravo

I'm a newbie in airsoft. I must admit that I never played a game yet but it should happen this weekend. Yes I did a common mistake, I bought an airsoft without trying the game Lollll.

But I'm not worried. I known that I will like it.

Quick question base on the first part of this thread.

It is mentionned to use duster gaz instead of Green gaz for plastic slider if we want durability and this is the case for the TM G18C stock.

However, my TM G18C specification say to use Green Gaz.

Because the post started in 2012, may be TM made some modifications since then.

So, should I use green gaz?

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[Snipie]

E-Lider, please clear your messages OK so I can communicate with you!8O