FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[RacingManiac]

The pin I think is meant to be a press-fit for the RS MSH. The way TM does it with stock is a simpler way as the stopper that TM uses can't come out as long as its trapped between the grip and the MSH itself when installed. Most of the aftermarket MSH for Hi-Capa/1911 I find that uses the pins don't get the fit quite right as I think the Nova ones tend to be pretty loose, I end up always gluing them. If its tight, and being you need to press the hammer spring down as you bang it in, I'd get it started first, such that the pin stands up in the hole with the tip already in a tiny bit. But not enough to be actually stopping the plunger, then press the plunger with the spring in and compress in, then try to hit the pin in....

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

The pin I think is meant to be a press-fit for the RS MSH. The way TM does it with stock is a simpler way as the stopper that TM uses can't come out as long as its trapped between the grip and the MSH itself when installed. Most of the aftermarket MSH for Hi-Capa/1911 I find that uses the pins don't get the fit quite right as I think the Nova ones tend to be pretty loose, I end up always gluing them. If its tight, and being you need to press the hammer spring down as you bang it in, I'd get it started first, such that the pin stands up in the hole with the tip already in a tiny bit. But not enough to be actually stopping the plunger, then press the plunger with the spring in and compress in, then try to hit the pin in....

I tried that; but when the pin is JUST about the block the plunger from flying out that's where the most friction was encountered and thus it requires a hammer to knock the pin further in.

I haven't tried to hammer the pin in to see if it'll actually go in anyway since it's already very hard for me to use a pair of pilers to pull the pin out once I hammered it in once; if I do it any more I don't want to run the risk of getting the pin stuck in there and therefore losing the whole use of the MSH ><;

I've also tried pushing the pin through both sides (the serrated grip side and the rear side) but they both have the same amount of resistance) and I'm sticking with trying to push the pin through the rear since I don't want to scratch up the serrated side of the MSH.

I think what I'll do is rub the pin on some fine sandpaper and see if I can sand it till the sides of the pin are shiny before trying to push it through again. Hopefully that'll work and hopefully I can get the pin thin enough so that it can be friction-held in place rather than me having to glue it in place like the NOVA ones.

Also, do you have any ideas why I can't pull the lanyard loop out? I would've thought the screw on the side be the only thing that locks the lanyard loop in place. I've never encountered the loop being stuck like the LCT MSH one since the TM and the Bell 1911 ones came loose very easily once the screw is removed. I've tried using pilers to remove it too but other than scratching up the loop slightly the loop didn't bulge.

EDIT: The lanyard loop is out! Did it by getting a smaller allen screw to push down on the loop from the locking screw hole and wiggling and applying pressure on the screw and trying to pull the loop out by hand repeatedly rather than trying to brute force the loop out. After the loop got out I saw no deformation; the loop really is just a U-shaped piece of steel so I dunno how it can get caught up in the MSH after the locking grub screw was removed...

Thanks for the reply too! :P

[RacingManiac]

lol, I've never had a MSH with lanyard hook anyway, so not much help from me with that regard...

I got a question of my own to pick you guys brain with. On my new build from that pic from last page, I have the stock TM trigger/trigger bow in the gun. It fires fine, no issue with anything. As soon as I swapped a ProG4 steel trigger bow with a PDI trigger in, the gun will go full auto. While thats cool and all, its not what I want...I am kinda stumped as to why it does it on one combo and not the other. The differences between the 2, as far as I can tell, the stock setup gives me more trigger travel, the sear travels further back at full press, and as such the disconnect can fully miss the sear on the return and sear can lock the hammer correctly. It looks like with the ProG4 setup, the sear kinda stops at the lowest point of its travel, which is enough to disengage the hammer, and fire the gun, but the disconnector kinda brushes against the sear on its return stroke, and the sear can't lock the hammer. I am trying to increase my trigger travel now, just wondering if anyone ran into similar issue before. I've never had this particular problem in my previous build, and I've use ProG4's trigger bow on a few occasion(2 1911, 1 Hi-Capa), but never PDI's trigger.... I just thought that it is strange the lack of travel can cause something like this...

[ILLusion]

The ProG4 trigger stirrup is a bit thicker & longer than stock, especially at the bend inside the front of the grip (the ProG4 version is a bit more square.)

I have a feeling you're not getting enough clearance for the disconnector to release the trigger.

[RacingManiac]

any resolution for that in the past? Or do I have to try to mill my trigger bow?

[ILLusion]

No resolution was sought, as I haven't encountered this problem before. I've always had enough room for function. If anything, I had issues with the trigger disconnector not having enough room to slip behind the sear, so a light filing to add a ramp was the solution.

The internal space of the Prime grip kit may be too tight and designed to just barely fit the Marui bow. Or it could be causing your bow to sit a bit higher, which doesn't allow the disconnector enough room to clear the sear, thus, the sear is constantly held down till you release the trigger.

[RacingManiac]

Hmm that sounds plausible, I have some idea I might try...I am thinking of maybe creating some clearance around the sear area of the bow.

[ILLusion]

Just watch the action slowly with the safety levers and grip safety removed. You can get a good idea of what's not working properly by seeing in this "skeletonized" view.

[RacingManiac]

BTW, why does the trigger bow from ProG4 has a "rib" on the back of it?

Edit: Wait, found a problem....I have the WA version of the bow....I ordered the wrong one....

Explains for a lot actually....fuck... :banghead:

[ILLusion]

Okay, cuz I was going to say I don't know anything about a rib... lol

[RacingManiac]

Gonna try to make it work....damn...

[Wantabe_Warrior]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

It's not just the depth of the rails, but you'll need to see what the "chunk" of the rail portion (right by the slide catch axle) looks like from a different angle. It sticks out obtusely and makes the gun feel ridiculous. Basically, if you look at any of the new Marui "Warrior" series, you'll have an idea of what I'm talking about. The PGC Warrior kit is like a mix between a Marui Warrior's beastly rail attachment thingamabob... and a proper rail. So it's not full-on nasty, but it's not proper, either. LOL. But at least it's integrated....

I don't mean to question the master Airsmith, but... I've done a little google-fu research and the real steel Kimbers Warriors also have that bulk at the slide release (I'm using the Kimber web site as my reference here), so that would still mean it's accurate (at least externally).

[RacingManiac]

Originally Posted by Wantabe_Warrior

I don't mean to question the master Airsmith, but... I've done a little google-fu research and the real steel Kimbers Warriors also have that bulk at the slide release (I'm using the Kimber web site as my reference here), so that would still mean it's accurate (at least externally).

Agreed....Brian's own railed 2011 frame doesn't have it, but 2011 frames are wider than single stack guns at the dust cover....

I think Springfield makes their Operator frame flush on the slide release side, but have that step on the opposing side. Kimber and Colt both made their railed frame narrow as a regular 1911 up to the slide release and widen the frame to the railed portion.

[TaroBear]

Can someone explain the different type of NOVA stainless bushings to me? I'm shopping for one right now, but there are several types, and I can't seem to find any information on any different between them. They even look the same from reference photos.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Wantabe_Warrior

I don't mean to question the master Airsmith, but... I've done a little google-fu research and the real steel Kimbers Warriors also have that bulk at the slide release (I'm using the Kimber web site as my reference here), so that would still mean it's accurate (at least externally).

I didn't say the real one doesn't have it, nor did I say the Nova one didn't have it either.

What I meant, is that the PGC one sticks out A LOT, at a very sharp angle. Much more than it should, causing it to look very apparent, much like the Marui Warrior series rails.

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

Agreed....Brian's own railed 2011 frame doesn't have it

Yes it does

Originally Posted by TaroBear

Can someone explain the different type of NOVA stainless bushings to me? I'm shopping for one right now, but there are several types, and I can't seem to find any information on any different between them. They even look the same from reference photos.

Thickness, plus the shape of the locking legs.