FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[one2three_us]

2 questions

1. Just wondering what is the highest FPS can a TM 5.1 can achieve while maintain accuracy. I can only get +- 325
2. How I can reduce blow back so it does not upset aiming that much.

Here's are what I have:
AS Metal Slide with Compensator,
Gaurder recoil spring
Enhanced loading nozzle
KA floating valve with home made sleeve which create pre load on floating valve spring
AS light weight BBU, which I will cut out more holes to reduce weight further more.
PDI 01 6in barrel

What else can I do to create more power and reduce blow back? Thx

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by one2three_us

2 questions

1. Just wondering what is the highest FPS can a TM 5.1 can achieve while maintain accuracy. I can only get +- 325

That depends on what inner barrel length you're willing to go with. With a 6" 6.01mm PDI barrel like the one you have, I've been able to get up to 350fps with an otherwise stock gun.

Originally Posted by one2three_us

2. How I can reduce blow back so it does not upset aiming that much.

1. Reduce potential energy in the moving mechanism. ie, lighten the moving slide assembly. If you want to lighten the blowback unit more, I'd highly recommend the Nine Ball Feather weight blowback unit. Yes, it's plastic, but it's highly durable. I've put thousands of rounds through mine with barely any sign of wear to it. The Nine Ball Featherweight piston will weigh much less than you could ever drill out a metal blowback unit. A lightened slide will help as well. My highest end open division setup has a shortened slide (4.3" length) that has lightning cuts (aka "speed ports") in it to further reduce weight.
2. Install shock buffers to absorb blowback impact

Originally Posted by one2three_us

Here's are what I have:
AS Metal Slide with Compensator,
Gaurder recoil spring
Enhanced loading nozzle
KA floating valve with home made sleeve which create pre load on floating valve spring
AS light weight BBU, which I will cut out more holes to reduce weight further more.
PDI 01 6in barrel

What else can I do to create more power and reduce blow back? Thx

• High flow valves
• Power up floating valve
• Better seal hop up rubber (I recommend Nine Ball, LCT, or PDI)
• Larger magazines with a larger gas reservoir will yield higher and more stable gas output.

For reference, my highest end setup also uses a 6" PDI 01 barrel, along with:

• KM high flow valves
• Nine Ball Gas Route Rubber
• Firefly high flow floating valve
• Firefly piston cup
• Firefly (Hard) hop up rubber
• Using TM Hi-Capa 5.1 Stainless 31 round magazines.

Output peaks at 346fps with BL.S 0.20g BB's (1.11 Joules), but the power output will increase dramatically with heavier weight ammo. I find that gas upgrades will not yield a sizeable increase for lighter weight ammunition, but with heavier ammunition, the increase improves much more.

For example, in competition, I'll shoot with Marui Perfect Hit 0.28g BBs (sometimes I'll even go up to 0.30g), and with the Marui's, I'll get 300fps output, which is 1.17 Joules. That's a 5.4% power increase just by using ammo that's 0.08g heavier. This power output is equivalent to 355fps with 0.20g BB's.

[MultipleParadox]

Hey guys,

I got this slide set for my TM 4.3.

I got two questions:

1. What kind of Sight/Where can I find a Micro Red dot that will fit the mount shown in the link provided (Silverback Micro Red Dot Adapter). (what would be a good option, is it worth the money vs regular sights?)

2. The NineBall's rear sight won't fit the slide, no matter how hard I try. Maybe I'm just stupid or something so I would like confirmation that it *should* fit, or have I been kinda scammed?

Also, the front sight will fit, but how is that supposed to stay in place unless I glue it there? O_o This seem to just slide from the side and hold by the not so great friction from what I saw.

Thanks for the help

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by MultipleParadox

1. What kind of Sight/Where can I find a Micro Red dot that will fit the mount shown in the link provided (Silverback Micro Red Dot Adapter). (what would be a good option, is it worth the money vs regular sights?)

The original Docter Sight.

There are a few Asian clones that fit - sadly, most of the China made clones DON'T fit exactly, but can be made to fit. Tasco dot fits as well. Off the top of my head, Samurai made one of the best fitting Asian clones, and it had a superior dot picture and build quality to any of the other Asian clone dots I've seen since. Too bad they've been discontinued for a while.

I've played around with slide mounted optics, but I still don't have a solid opinion on it. One thing you have to realize is that the dot moves with the slide, so tracking it is harder. There will be a learning curve to get used to it. On the upside, it's one of the lowest mounting options you can get to get it close to the bore. This reduces parallax and also helps to reduce the learning curve of picking up the sight picture quickly.

Originally Posted by MultipleParadox

2. The NineBall's rear sight won't fit the slide, no matter how hard I try. Maybe I'm just stupid or something so I would like confirmation that it *should* fit, or have I been kinda scammed?

This is "normal", and you're actually required to modify the sight to fit - as per the instructions on the packaging.

I find it incredibly stupid that such an overpriced die-cast open sight still requires modification, but whatever. It is what it is, and unfortunately, there's very little other option at this time.

But personally, a combat sight on a racegun setup like that is a bit ridiculous. Stick with adjustable sights.

Originally Posted by MultipleParadox

Also, the front sight will fit, but how is that supposed to stay in place unless I glue it there? O_o This seem to just slide from the side and hold by the not so great friction from what I saw.

Shim it. Loctite it. Glue it. Take your pick.

[MultipleParadox]

As always Brian, great informative post
Thanks for the help

I will probably stick with what I have and try to have a working solution for now :P

As for the modifs needed for the rear sight: I don't have the original packaging, so I couldn't guess :P anyone have details on what modifications are needed in order for it to fit?

[ILLusion]

You'll need a very small triangle hobby file.

Basically, you just have to take down the width of the mount so that it can fit the slide's dovetail. Even the packaging doesn't have detailed instructions on this. I have a feeling this was done on purpose to allow custom fitment to any slightly off-spec dovetail cuts in any aftermarket slides. They could have approached this differently, IMO.

Like any other fitment in airsoft, do it by eye. Go slow, go carefully. Do it by eye to remove restrictions, as each setup is different. What I tell you I do to mount this with my slides may not apply to another slide.

[MultipleParadox]

Alrighty then
Will do just this

Thanks a lot!

[one2three_us]

Brian,

Thx for ur feedback.

In term of hop up (hard) , r u referring to more harder spinning from Hol up or harder material on hop up rubber?

As for slide, u said 4.1 slide, so sound like u will need to have 2in compensator? Do u have any pic as example?

Feather weight BBU, do u carry them?

At last, I just realize that when I cock the slide, They loading nozzle will not load he next BB into the chamber, however, it will load once I fire the initial empty shot. Any suggestion? Thx again

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by one2three_us

In term of hop up (hard) , r u referring to more harder spinning from Hol up or harder material on hop up rubber?

Material... and it also puts a harder spin on the round.

Originally Posted by one2three_us

As for slide, u said 4.1 slide, so sound like u will need to have 2in compensator? Do u have any pic as example?

I said 4.3". I actually did have a 4.1" setup before, and that one was insane. I ultimately decided I wanted something a bit longer, though. Compensator on both is/was 2-3/8".

Originally Posted by one2three_us

Feather weight BBU, do u carry them?

I did. Out of stock on them right now, but can get more.

Originally Posted by one2three_us

At last, I just realize that when I cock the slide, They loading nozzle will not load he next BB into the chamber, however, it will load once I fire the initial empty shot. Any suggestion? Thx again

That depends on WHY it's not loading the next shot... is it not retracting back far enough?

[one2three_us]

I guess I put too many spacer on the recoil rod. If I remove some buffers, then every now and then the slide will jam w/ hammer. Shall I find a way to increase spring tention on the loading nozzle?

That gun looks great. I wish most of the website will give more detail about the slide they sell. The all say they r compatible w/5.1 but never indicate the combination. Buying a slide feel like shooting in the dark.

Any slide combo that u sell r like that and if there is any that has hybrid compensator?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by one2three_us

I guess I put too many spacer on the recoil rod. If I remove some buffers, then every now and then the slide will jam w/ hammer. Shall I find a way to increase spring tention on the loading nozzle?

I think I know what you're talking about. I have the same issue, even with a nozzle lockout installed. But if I want maximum short stroke, this is what I have to deal with. :P

I either have to stick my finger in the chamber to assist the nozzle back, or just fire the first shot knowing it'll be blank.

Originally Posted by one2three_us

Any slide combo that u sell r like that and if there is any that has hybrid compensator?

Sure, but HybriComp setups are the most expensive... contact me by PM for direct sales inquiries.

[one2three_us]

Just pm u

[anthon]

Now that im caps certified, I was wondering, what would be the least expensive yet best upgrades for my 1911 MEU and 5.1 Match Custom?

Basicly I want to know the best cheep upgrades that will give me more accurate shots (if there are any "cheep" or inexpensive upgrades out there)

[ILLusion]

There are a few areas that define "accuracy", and are affected by various components:

1) Accuracy through consistency (knowing where the shot will hit, every time - solved by tighter groupings, more consistent gas output, and precision fitment of components between the sights and the muzzle)

2) Accuracy over range (solved by greater output power, or tighter groupings)

3) Accuracy by user interface (lightened trigger load will cause the shooter to be less likely to "jerk" a shot)

4) Accuracy in follow up shots (less muzzle flip will yield faster and more accurate follow up shots. Huge blowback and muzzle flip will cause greater sight drift.)

5) Accuracy in pointability (transition from target to target, a gun with greater pointability will be able to get on target faster.)

As you can see, there are two main groups to accuracy. The first, is accuracy in the gun. The second, is accuracy with the shooter (and the shooter interface.)

There is no single easy answer to your question, but if you want to focus solely on the gun, start with the inner barrel and moving to a heavier weight BB. I personally prefer a minimum of 0.28g.

[rabies]

is the kjw a TM clone?