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October 11th, 2009, 23:24 | #16 | |
Quote:
+1 Best go with TM or Maruzen.. |
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October 11th, 2009, 23:25 | #17 |
sounds like me after chillie.
To latency The cars suspension will help *press* the tires on to the ground under hard conditions such as cornering and acceleration. When I used to race body rigity was a huge factor. When a car accelerates the torque will twist the body lifting the tires off the ground. I eventually stuff breaks if you do not stiffin it up/make the areas that need to move able to move freely. Same thing with a rifle I guess. If its brittle/shitty body and it moves *even the action of cocking the gun/letting the spring go* your tolerances will slowly but surely increase. Anyways I am not an authority on this and just learning my self but I can see how this can transfer over to airsoft. Now where do I hook my nitrous up to this m700? |
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October 11th, 2009, 23:29 | #18 |
everyone is giving you the same answer. stop re-asking the same question hoping for a change. it seems like you are heart set on hearing that the Well will perform the same, but in reality it wont. it will be good, but not the best. why? cause of tolerances. there is no such thing as a cheap sniper platform that performs well.
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October 12th, 2009, 01:05 | #19 |
Here is the quick answer:
If you have an Well L96 already, you *CAN* upgrade it. If you have a Maruzen APS-2 Type 96 already, send me an e-mail. Now the long: I have a Well L96 I just bought back from a guy that wanted to upgrade it. He spent 600$ in parts (nozzles, cylinder, springs, pistons, guides, hop-up barrels etc.) The rifle had HUGE feeding problems and when it fired it was impossible to predict where the shot was going. It took me 25 hours to fix the feeding issue, then the trigger box exploded on me. I rebuilt it using fiberglass and some leftover ABS sheets. It is ugly, but it is inside. Then to fix the barrel wobble. First switch the empty mag pin because it is ALWAYS built unside down in clones. It then presses on the barrel and it is enought to tweak the shot. Then drill/tap the hop-up unit with a 4-40 socket screw because the stock 2mm screw is too small and breaks all the time. Then make some shims to space the nylon ring inside the reciever to make the barrel stop at the right place. Then locktight all the screws except the two large ones. Use blue stuff or else you will strip the cheap screws when removing them later. Then reinforce the body because it flex too much. I used the same fiberglass and resin I used to rebuild the trigger. Applied some on the inside everywhere there was enought space to add 2-3mm. Then filled it all with minimal expansion foam to reduce noise. I am almost happy with it now. It shoots 460 fps very consistent. Accuracy can still be better, it has a Madbull 6.03 509mm tightbore. I will probably change it to a PDI 6.01 or order one from EdGI. The guy before me spent 600$ in parts, plus 300$ for the rifle. I personally added an other 200$ in components and parts. Plus over 40 hours of time. And it still is not a perfect rifle. Flashback 4 years ago. I got a Maruzen APS-2 Type 96 for cheap. It was missing the barrel and spring stop. I installed a G&G M14 stock barrel, PDI hop-up unit and a spring stop. It was more consistent, more accurate and overall better performing than my current Well. |
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