Lipo with low ROF?

[Mitchell12]

Originally Posted by cerealmaniac

so what am i supposed to do to make my guns "LIPO" ready.

That has more to do with the quality of your internals. Use google, No more spoon feed for you.

[cerealmaniac]

Originally Posted by Mitchell12

That has more to do with the quality of your internals. Use google, No more spoon feed for you.

i know about the internals... i'm just trying to find out whether or not higher gauge wires will help slow the trigger contacts burnout process. turns out trigger master already does the job.

[Mitchell12]

Originally Posted by cerealmaniac

i know about the internals... i'm just trying to find out whether or not higher gauge wires will help slow the trigger contacts burnout process. turns out trigger master already does the job.

The thicker gauge wiring is an efficiency thing. If anything you'd get less arcing with thinner wires because they'd have more resistance and less current going to the switch. The thicker gauge wire will allow current to flow easier to the motor and all that jazz, It will also heat up less if that's a problem your experiencing though it shouldn't be.


All effects of changing the gauge of the wiring is minimal in an AEG. Never a bad thing if you can increase the gauge but almost never necessary.

[Dart]

here is a size comparrison of the 7.4v battery to a playing card, how ever these are only 800mah batteries, I may recommend not going with parkzone for this reason. I am pretty sure you can get higher capacity ones.

Also you will need a special charger for lipos as well, they run anywhere from $30 for a cheap in car one to what ever you want to spend. Make sure it has a balancer!

Edit: yes that is a wow Game card :P Silea Dawnwalker to be exact lol

Edit: and if you do not understand why a 7.4v lipo performs like a 9.6v here is the answer. Its all about discharge baby.
So what does the “C” rating on a lipo mean?
For starters, the ‘C” in “C Rating” stands for capacity.

To break it down to its simplest terms, the “C” rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack’s capacity. “Capacity” refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example). Here’s the easy way to find your battery’s discharge rate – just multiply the number from the “C” rating by the pack’s capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp.

Here’s an example, using an 11.1V – 2000mAh – 10C:
2000 milliamps = 2 amps, 2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge.
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V – 2000mAh – 10C without doing damage to your battery.

What does the "C" mean in 10C, 20C etc ?
We use the designation 10C etc to mean how much a cell or pack can discharge in amps. C always equals the capacity of a cell or pack. For example. Let use a PQ31003S pack rated for 12C. In this case C=3100mah. the number before the "C" is the multiplier. so 12 x 3100 = 37200mah. to get amps we simply divide by 1000. 37200/1000 = 37.2 amps. 1000mah = 1amp.

So for the above pack (PQ31003S) rated @ 12c we now know the max discharge rating is 37.2 amps.

Another example: a 20C 1800mah 3S pack.=2 0What is its max rating? 20 x 1800 = 36000. 36000mah = 36000/1000 = 36amps. So the 1800 3s pack @ 20c has a max rating of 36amps.

So when ever you see a C rating take the number before the letter "C" and multiply the packs capacity by it. That is it. To get amps from your new number simply divide it by 1000mah.

So this battery has a 10c continuous and a 15cburst *which is what will get your motor cranking off the start* 10cX800mah= 8 amps of discharge! I do not think how ever we have an airsoft motor that would draw that much with out frying.

[ThunderCactus]

Wouldn't heavier gage wire, without a mosfet, actually increase the damage being done to your trigger contacts? Seeing as there's more current going through...
Anyway isn't it higher voltage that does all the damage?

To make your gun LiPo ready depends on the gun. You can just keep your stock internals if your getting a 7.4v LiPo. My 7.4v 1600mah 20C LiPo has 20gage wire on it (so that adds alot of resistance unfortunately for me), but it puts out 930rpm on my M4 whereas my 9.6v 1500mah NIMH puts out 1000rpm

[Mitchell12]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Wouldn't heavier gage wire, without a mosfet, actually increase the damage being done to your trigger contacts? Seeing as there's more current going through...
Anyway isn't it higher voltage that does all the damage?

Tis what I said except I said the thinner wires would prevent it as it has less current going through :P

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Wouldn't heavier gage wire, without a mosfet, actually increase the damage being done to your trigger contacts? Seeing as there's more current going through...
Anyway isn't it higher voltage that does all the damage?

No...

Current is pulled, it's not pushed.

VOLTAGE is pulled.

Originally Posted by Mitchell12

Tis what I said except I said the thinner wires would prevent it as it has less current going through :P

By using a larger gauge, it allows more current to be pulled, assuming the load can pull more current, and if it is in fact pulling more current, then it means that the previous wire you were using was a bottleneck, was insufficient, and that upgrading to larger gauge wire was a smart idea. Otherwise, if you continue trying to pull large current through small gauge wire, you risk melting that wire by overheating it.

Upgrading to a larger gauge is for safety, as well as a performance boost if your load requires it.

The other issue to consider, is that if your motor is actually drawing enough current to require fat ass wires, then there is something wrong with your system. A properly built AEG gearbox should never require more than 25A in a spike.

Part of your thought process is correct, though. If your motor is in fact pulling a lot of current, then yes, heavy electrical arcing across the trigger contacts will burn holes in it.
Voltage does damage by forcing the mechanical components to move at an extremely fast repetitive rate. If any part of the system is imbalanced (ie not enough torque or too weak of a spring), then that's when parts start to fail.

[Doombringer]

Just get a li-po with a low discharge rate. Look for the "C" rating, the higher it is, the more amps the battery can give your motor. The lower it is, the less amps it will be able to provide, at the same voltage. Voltage is not the only thing to look at...

[Dart]

the C raiting is the capibilty to discharge at that rate... not the actual discharge rate. If you over discharge a lipo battery you can have bad results.
Also remember C is Xmah so you could technacly have a lower C raiting with a higher MAH and actually be higher on your discharge rate.

[ThunderCactus]

And if you get a systema magnum, be sure to tune it up before using a LiPo, they're really bad for spikes and drawing current.

High quality wire is important too, I rewired my M4 from the stock G&P 14 gauge wire to high quality 18 gauge and I ended up with less resistance.