L96 Trigger Mech

[Wolfeyes]

Alright so my problem is after a few uses, my Well Type L96 Trigger Mech just fell apart.

Now I've done as much as I can fixing the problem, but now that the weapon is back together, the spring wont lock.

Is there any where i can either purchase a new trigger mech, or if someone knows how to fix this problem.

Or better yet, a metal trigger mech because a plastic trigger mech with metal parts inside is ridiculous and frankly stupid to begin with.

Sorry about my rude comment, but I took care of my weapon every chance I got. So........

[BlackRain]

You can use the upgraded trigger for the Maruzen L96 it will fit... you can find them at any of these places or ask Jugglez from airsoftparts.ca he may be able to get it for you as well.

WGCShop.com
RedWolfAirsoft.com
Uncompany.com

[aznpos531]

When you take apart the trigger box, it's a BITCH to put back together properly. I speak from first-hand experience -_-
I got curious one day and decided to open up the damn thing and see the sears and what not...what can I say; I like to take things apart to see what makes them tick Bad idea...I slapped it back together after nosying my way around it and, very much like in your case, the gun now slamfires. It literally took me weeks and more attempts to put it back together than I care to remember to get the gun working again.

It'll be nigh impossible for me to explain how to put the damn thing back together, but if I can think of a way or if I can find some pictures I'll edit my post.

The easiest solution is to buy an aftermarket trigger box such as these:
linky 1
linky 2

The zero trigger will let you put in a stiffer spring and it's just made of better materials all around so it won't crap out on you. However, be prepared to spend almost as much as you paid for the gun.

edit: Found some decent pictures...I'll edit my post when I figure out how to explain it.

edit2: Before you attempt this, please make sure that you're working in a clean, uncluttered workspace with no nooks and crannies that small parts can fall into. Small parts WILL go flying during your attempts.

Please refer to the following pictures:




The parts I've labeled will be referred to as such in bold. Don't worry about the unlabeled springs. Just don't mess with them and don't lose them and you'll be fine. Also, don't worry about the other half with the safety on it. Don't undo the screws and don't lose that half and you'll be fine. Oh...don't lose the three screws that hold the box together either (duh).

First and foremost, let's look at how the trigger box works. Note the different positioning of the sears in the first and second pic.

In pic #1, Sear 2 is upright and held against Sear 1. In this position, the the bolt has been pulled back and the spring is caught on Sear 2 and Sear 1 keeps it in place. The gun is ready to fire.

Moving onto pic #2. Note that Sear 2 is now tilted forward towards the Front fixture and the front of Sear 1 is lifted upwards by the unlabeled spring beneath it. The trigger has just been pulled and Sear 1 is tilted downwards, allowing Sear 2 to tilt forward. The spring that was caught on Sear 2 is now free to expand, pushing the piston yadda yadda yadda...the bb is put down range.

Ok...now we know the basics of its operation...let's move onto some additional info regarding anatomy. The Set pin, shown in pic #2, is important (don't lose it). It keeps the spring guide in place as the bolt is pulled back; without it, the gun will still slamfire even with a functioning trigger box. The Bolt position trigger lock (for lack of a better term), stops the trigger from being pulled when the bolt handle is in the "up" position. When the bolt handle is up, it pushes the Bolt position trigger lock down, stopping the Sear 1 from tilting.
Note that the Rear fixture and Front fixture are at different heights...front higher than rear. The opposite is true on the other half...they interlock and the screws go threw to fix it on the receiver of the gun.

Also note (*NB...very important), that on the bottom half of Sear 2 (the part that catches on Sear 1). Has "little "arms" on either side. If Sear 2 should fall out, make sure these "little arms" are inside the box. Also note that the slanted edges of Sear 2 face the front.
Also very important**. On either side of Sear 2 are what I have named Sear 2 spring. There are 2 of them and they are the mirror image of each other. Don't lose them!

Having said all that, Sear 2 (more specifically, its "little arms") and the two Sear 2 springs are the source of your slamfire problem. Let me explain. After the gun is fired, Sear 2 will be in the forward position as is pic #2. In order for the spring to catch on Sear 2, it must be in the upright position (as in pic#1). In order for that to happen, as the bolt is pulled back, it tilts Sear 2 from its forward position to the upright position and it catches on Sear 1. Now this is where the Sear 2 springs come into play. They keep tension on Sear 2 by bracing on the box and the "little arms", preventing it from tilting too far backwards (past the upright position) when the bolt is pulled back.
When the Sear 2 springs are not installed correctly, Sear 2 is allowed to tilt backwards past the upright position and it stays in this position. When it's in this position, the spring is not able to catch on it...and THAT is your problem.

Now, to fix that problem, the Sear 2 springs must be installed correctly. MUCH easier said than done! Allow me to explain. The Sear 2 springs are shaped in such a fashion that one side is an L and the other side is more like a J or just straight (don't remember exactly). The L side goes into a small hole in the plastic of the trigger box itself. The loop of the spring goes on the same shaft as that Sear 2 sits on. The J/straight side of the spring should be on the opposite side (from the small hole in the plastic) of the "little arm" of Sear 2. This goes for both sides of Sear 2, except they're mirrored.

If this is done correctly, Sear 2 will have the tendency to always tilt forward under tension of the Sear 2 springs. Still with me? I know it's confusing but I really don't know how else to describe it (and you'd have to pay me to take mine apart just to make a video to show how it's done -_-").

HOWEVER...when the springs are install correctly, it will not stay that way with the box wide open! That's the hard part of the whole thing. When you put the springs in the right place, it'll want to fly off the shaft it's on. So you'll need to put the springs and Sear 2 in place with the two halves of the box semi closed, and quickly close it as soon as the parts are all in place. And when you finally succeed, secure the box closed with the 3 screws and your trigger box is good as new.

I know this was probably the worst tutorial on all of ASC. I apologize but this is the best I can do for now. Hopefully you'll be able to figure it out with the parts in front of you. If you have any questions (I'm sure you will if you attempt this), feel free to ask me here or in PM. If anyone else has had experience with this and knows and tips and tricks...even if you can express yourself better than me, please pitch in.

[Kos-Mos]

Sadly, if your plastic case is broken, the only way to go is a light weight unit.

There used to be some company making the metal trigger box shells, but they where selling for the same price as the light weight upgrade, without the added benefits of the said unit.

Lightweight are kinda hard to find, but you can get one from time to time when it is in stock.

If it is the sears that are broken (inside parts), or the piston, then you can replace them with aftermarket parts. Unlike the VSR-10s you can use a stock trigger unit with aftermarket piston and vice-versa.

Also, when you cock the bolt, is there a force working against you? (as in does the spring try to prevent you from pulling it). If not, then it is just the guide holder that is not in place. The large pin-like part that goes vertically across the whole trigger box and into the receiver.

If you can pull it with some force, but it does not engage at the end, it might be the piston, first or second sears. First one is the small one with the pin in the middle. Second one is the long one with the square hole at one end (that allow the guide holder to pass).

*edit

I have opened and rebuilt theses a whole bunch of times. It is not that hard to do actually. The only thing that does not hold in place is the second spring for the first sear. You need to have both inside the trigger box to work, otherwise the sear might stay down one way or the other (that might be your problem actually).