VSR plastic body nut?

Dart · September 20th, 2010, 11:16

I hope this makes sence. On my TSD vsr there is a plastic "nut" that the front body screw goes into. Its just under the hop up unit. Anyways it has split in half and I am having a heck of a time getting epoxy to hold it together properly. Has anyone else had an issue with this? If so what did you use to get things rolling again?

VooDooPeteK · September 20th, 2010, 11:20

does the "nut" not come out leaving just a hole with a hex on one side?

then just replace the nut with a metal one?

I have not had experience with the TSD VSR but imagine this would be the case

Eldin · September 20th, 2010, 11:21

Honestly? Zipties

Dart · September 20th, 2010, 11:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eldin

Honestly? Zipties

really? ... I suppose you have duct tape holding your muffler on your car too right?

Its not as simple as just putting a nut in there. Its a flat wide plastic piece with a hole in the middle and threading in it.

m102404 · September 20th, 2010, 13:11

I can't recall the part exactly...but I think I sort of remember it.

The issue with a lot of these plastics is that they're "slippery" and won't take adhesives (i.e. chemical bonds) well. They're ok on mechanical bonds...so sometimes pinning (i.e. through/cross pins) or roughing up the surfaces helps.

Otherwise melting (i.e. heat/flame) the two parts to re-bond them works (but it's very hard to get the dimensions correct).

Another option is to recast the part. If it's not a really weird/awkward part...you can sometimes use plasticine (i.e. kids playdough) to make a quick mold and then use 2 part epoxy (2 part steel automotive epoxy and/or JB weld works very well). The epoxy must be runny enough to get into all the edges....and you want to minimize the bubbles that may form when mixing the components. Since the part is relatively large and contained (i.e. not exposed to a lot of air)....let it setup for several days to ensure that it fully hardens. JB weld and the like are easily filed/drilled to shape to form...so oversizing things and fitting by hand is pretty easy.

Also...you could consider making an expoxy "cast" for the part if you have room in the stock for that. There's steel putty (plumbers section) that is a 2part epoxy plasticine that is steel impregnated...form it and press it to shape. A steel cast/form around the part might hold it together.

It's a good time now to take a look at what that part does and see if you can't re-engineer it. AS parts are often underengineered and have room for substantial improvement.

If you can't find another...that's what I'd try something with epoxy...afterall, you're going for broke at that point.

Dart · September 20th, 2010, 15:28

I think I came up with a solution. The problem was the edges of the part were just too jagged to bond together properly. And to add any epoxy to the top or bottom was just making it too thick to slide back into the slot it goes in. So instead I epoxied it to the area it goes into and used that as support. Its not coming out but it really doesn't need to.

Hopefully that holds.

BTW M102404.... you talk like your an engineer.

Eldin · September 20th, 2010, 17:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dart

really? ... I suppose you have duct tape holding your muffler on your car too right?

Its not as simple as just putting a nut in there. Its a flat wide plastic piece with a hole in the middle and threading in it.

No, it's a coat hanger

Slow · September 20th, 2010, 18:39

Are you talking about the TSD M700? The VSR Clone? If so, i havn't had any problems with any of the screws...though they are very shitty made ones, which i replaced as soon as i found out there quality. Replacing a screw/refitting one doesnt take much. Just some time and patience.

m102404 · September 20th, 2010, 19:19

more like Red Green...just tidier...

...just amateur woodworking/metalworking stuff

If the edges are jagged, you could "fill" them with epoxy/glue....let it sit and then file it flat to dimension....then rebond it. Not the strongest joint.

Filling the surrounding area is a good fix too...great idea.

ThunderCactus · September 20th, 2010, 19:57

Pictures? I'm a machinist, I might be able to hook you up with a more permanent, reliable solution

Eldin · September 20th, 2010, 21:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Pictures? I'm a machinist, I might be able to hook you up with a more permanent, reliable solution

Are you saying my methods are not permanent or reliable?

ThunderCactus · September 20th, 2010, 22:00

well, not AS permanent or reliable

Eldin · September 20th, 2010, 22:30

.

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September 20th, 2010, 11:16	#1
Dart Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Grande Prairie Alberta	VSR plastic body nut? I hope this makes sence. On my TSD vsr there is a plastic "nut" that the front body screw goes into. Its just under the hop up unit. Anyways it has split in half and I am having a heck of a time getting epoxy to hold it together properly. Has anyone else had an issue with this? If so what did you use to get things rolling again?

September 20th, 2010, 11:20	#2
VooDooPeteK Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Thorold, Ont	does the "nut" not come out leaving just a hole with a hex on one side? then just replace the nut with a metal one? I have not had experience with the TSD VSR but imagine this would be the case __________________ http://www.gorillaairsoftradio.com/ Great Airsoft Podcast Gun tech work, Parts, Upgrades and anything else you might need http://www.fortythievesmcnation.com/ Support your local 1%er

September 20th, 2010, 18:39	#8
Slow Loves Furries Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Manitoba	Are you talking about the TSD M700? The VSR Clone? If so, i havn't had any problems with any of the screws...though they are very shitty made ones, which i replaced as soon as i found out there quality. Replacing a screw/refitting one doesnt take much. Just some time and patience. __________________ If ASC were real life, there would be no Chuck Norris, only CDN_Stalker MANITOBA IVAN

September 20th, 2010, 11:21	#3
Eldin Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Saltspring Island, BC, Canada	Honestly? Zipties

September 20th, 2010, 13:11	#5
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	I can't recall the part exactly...but I think I sort of remember it. The issue with a lot of these plastics is that they're "slippery" and won't take adhesives (i.e. chemical bonds) well. They're ok on mechanical bonds...so sometimes pinning (i.e. through/cross pins) or roughing up the surfaces helps. Otherwise melting (i.e. heat/flame) the two parts to re-bond them works (but it's very hard to get the dimensions correct). Another option is to recast the part. If it's not a really weird/awkward part...you can sometimes use plasticine (i.e. kids playdough) to make a quick mold and then use 2 part epoxy (2 part steel automotive epoxy and/or JB weld works very well). The epoxy must be runny enough to get into all the edges....and you want to minimize the bubbles that may form when mixing the components. Since the part is relatively large and contained (i.e. not exposed to a lot of air)....let it setup for several days to ensure that it fully hardens. JB weld and the like are easily filed/drilled to shape to form...so oversizing things and fitting by hand is pretty easy. Also...you could consider making an expoxy "cast" for the part if you have room in the stock for that. There's steel putty (plumbers section) that is a 2part epoxy plasticine that is steel impregnated...form it and press it to shape. A steel cast/form around the part might hold it together. It's a good time now to take a look at what that part does and see if you can't re-engineer it. AS parts are often underengineered and have room for substantial improvement. If you can't find another...that's what I'd try something with epoxy...afterall, you're going for broke at that point.

September 20th, 2010, 15:28	#6
Dart Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Grande Prairie Alberta	I think I came up with a solution. The problem was the edges of the part were just too jagged to bond together properly. And to add any epoxy to the top or bottom was just making it too thick to slide back into the slot it goes in. So instead I epoxied it to the area it goes into and used that as support. Its not coming out but it really doesn't need to. Hopefully that holds. BTW M102404.... you talk like your an engineer.

September 20th, 2010, 19:19	#9
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	more like Red Green...just tidier... ...just amateur woodworking/metalworking stuff If the edges are jagged, you could "fill" them with epoxy/glue....let it sit and then file it flat to dimension....then rebond it. Not the strongest joint. Filling the surrounding area is a good fix too...great idea.

September 20th, 2010, 19:57	#10
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	Pictures? I'm a machinist, I might be able to hook you up with a more permanent, reliable solution

September 20th, 2010, 22:00	#12
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	well, not AS permanent or reliable

September 20th, 2010, 22:30	#13
Eldin Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Saltspring Island, BC, Canada	. Last edited by Eldin; August 13th, 2012 at 00:19..

VSR plastic body nut?

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