|
|||||||||
|
Home | Forums | Register | Gallery | FAQ | Calendar |
Retailers | Community | News/Info | International Retailers | IRC | Today's Posts |
|
Thread Tools |
October 12th, 2010, 09:25 | #1 |
Painting a SCAR-L
Hey guys!
I'm looking for some pointers about painting my SCAR-L. I have a black SCAR-L which I'd like to weather, beat up and basically make more genuine. I basically fell in love with the look of this gun and I'd like to apply it to my SCAR-L: Thing is, I have no idea where to even start. For reference, my SCAR-L is black and, aside from a few nicks and scratches, looks like it just fell out of the box. I have a suppressor, Eotech and Magpul AFG which can all be painted as well. Is there a guide you guys follow? Reference videos online? Again, I'm not trying to turn my gun camo...I just want it to look like it's taken a beating... |
|
October 12th, 2010, 09:26 | #2 |
Can't fix my own guns. Willing to fix yours.
|
use it and beat it up
|
October 12th, 2010, 09:27 | #3 |
Thanks for the thought, but I've had my SCAR-L for almost 3 years and I HAVE beat it up a whole lot...but it doesn't really show.
Plus, can you explain how beating it up, in a wooded canadian environment, would make it look like it went through the ringer in Dirka-dirkistan? |
|
October 12th, 2010, 09:29 | #4 |
For reference: I am second from left.
|
|
October 12th, 2010, 09:42 | #5 | |
Quote:
It is the different layers of paint that will chip and get worn uneven that makes the gun... You can force a fake look, but it is just not the same. Since your gun is black, a good start would be to apply a tan camo job on it, then play it for a few games. Then "clean" it with a weak thinner (carefull what you take, make sure it won't attack the gun itself. For Plastic, SuperClean is perfect (some purple industrial degreaser, sold at Walmart for about 20$/gallon). Re-do an other camo job over it with different colors/patern. Then when it will wear out, it will show some of the old paint under it. Worn can't be faked, you have to beat it. But unless you use your gun for years, the stock finish won't be damaged... need a weak layer to do it. Krylon paints work wonder for that. |
||
October 12th, 2010, 09:52 | #6 |
That's solid info! Thanks!
Are there any parts which I shouldn't paint in my initial run through? How would a real soldier paint his gun (assuming he were allowed, etc etc)? I'm talking about specific areas, like charging handle, dust cover, etc... |
|
October 12th, 2010, 10:48 | #7 |
I think there was a link around here for US standards for painting the guns (now that they have the right to do it)
Basically, the barrel plus any mechanical component or entry holes should be left unpainted (that is because they are issued rifles and must be cleaned before they are returned... barrel gets hot and cook the paint, and I guess a painted bolt carrier would really suck) When I do my guns, I simply remove the parts I don't want to paint (like the barrel extension for instance, on my G36). Then cover all holes that should not be covered (scope apperture, ejection port and cover...) Other than that, it is go as you feel... I usually either keep the gun black/original or do a basic paint job, then re-paint when it is too worns out/I am bored of it... |
|
October 12th, 2010, 15:34 | #8 |
I actually did that weathered look on my tan scar l by accident by leaving it outside uncovered overnight after a rainfall
|
|
October 12th, 2010, 15:45 | #9 |
Weather in naturally. Paint it and play in the field, best way to make guns look legit, I’m not a fan on man made weathering.
__________________
Legion XIII |
|
|
Bookmarks |
|
|